Ohh HELL NO!! Broke bolt!! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 06-28-2010
seed60's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,584
Ohh HELL NO!! Broke bolt!!

Putting the driveshaft back in and broke one of the strap bolts. How in the hell can I get this out??? There is just a little bit still sticking out.

Must have been messed up from other uninstalls and installs because it broke off way too easy.

Trying to go to Uwharrie this weekend and this sure as hell ain't helping. Help please! lol


Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-28-2010
Ray_Welder's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Zephyrhills, FLorida
Posts: 1,037
You could drill a hole in the middle of it and use an extractor on it.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-28-2010
steveo1271's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: lexington,sc
Posts: 780
is there enough room to weld a nut on the end to get it out?only way i know,and make sure you get pics of your wheeling trip too haha
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-28-2010
chainfire's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mission B.C.
Posts: 3,126
Tap a chisel to help loosen it. Or weld a nut on,
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-28-2010
RazorsEDGE's Avatar
There's no lifeguard in the gene pool
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 7,501
If you can weld a nut on the end that would work best IMO, but if you don't have access to a welder or have the room to do that then you can get use an angle grinder or dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut a slit into it and use a flathead screwdriver to get it out.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-28-2010
FULLSCALE's Avatar
Level III Supporter

iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clinton, Ontario
Posts: 8,181
I'd weld a nut on. If you don't have access to a welder there is always easy-outs but I'm sure those are hardened bolts so it may not be easy to drill.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-28-2010
HighRollerII's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 10,066
easy out -- would be my best idea..
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-28-2010
buckgnarly's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Topsham, VT
Posts: 1,709
If you have enough of it out of the hole, heat it, then work it out with some vice grips or channellocks. I've never had much luck with drilling out a bolt, especially on that broke trying to remove it.
I've given up trying to force bolts/nuts, oxyacetylene goes a LONG way in the rust belt...
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-28-2010
camodown's Avatar
Lost in Nowhere
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 5,029
Well I would think since you were putting it in, then a easy out would get it pretty easy
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-28-2010
buckgnarly's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Topsham, VT
Posts: 1,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by camodown View Post
Well I would think since you were putting it in, then a easy out would get it pretty easy

Ah, I thought he was removing it.....then yes, or a left hand drill bit sometimes works too.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-28-2010
Redrocket's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Waynesville n.c
Posts: 1,993
i dont thank their is enough sticking out to use a stud remover i would put a nut on their then fill the center with weld and see if that dont get it out
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-28-2010
seed60's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckgnarly View Post
If you have enough of it out of the hole, heat it, then work it out with some vice grips or channellocks. I've never had much luck with drilling out a bolt, especially on that broke trying to remove it.
I've given up trying to force bolts/nuts, oxyacetylene goes a LONG way in the rust belt...
x2 Never had much luck with drilling and using easy outs.

There is not enough sticking out to grab with vise grips.

I'll take it work and see if we can weld a nut on there but it is super tight in that area.

Thanks for all the quick replies. I was looking for some other options and just had to vent my frustration. I mean I'm soooo close to getting my 4wd back and really wanting to test it out this weekend.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-29-2010
Paul Spickard's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alexander City, Alabama
Posts: 250
easy outs are the best thing to use the reason you probably havent had much luck is because you should heat the metal up a bit and it will twist right out.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-29-2010
4x4RangerOffroad's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Barrington, NH
Posts: 434
its only tuesday....weld a nut on....heat it....impact away...Im in the rust belt so I do it daily at work.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-29-2010
Ranger_Envy's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Newton, Ks
Posts: 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by seed60 View Post
x2 Never had much luck with drilling and using easy outs.
I'd think that if the bolt was just fatigued and just broke off with little effort, an easy out should take it right out.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-29-2010
korey89's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South, FL
Posts: 4,672
Yeah I think your best bet is to weld a nut to it.

+1 on hating EZ outs. I've had nothing but problems with them. They either dont work at all, or snap in half. Sometimes when it snaps they break off flush with the bolt and it makes me want to kill myself.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-29-2010
seed60's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,584
I've got a guy at work that says he can get it out with an extractor. Says he's used to do it all time, former airplane mechanic. So I'm gonna let him try it and if not I'll get the welders to fix me up.


..and my luck streak continues!! Ended up driving the car today and blew a tire. Had to change the tire in the rain. lol
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-29-2010
xp1ik99's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lexington Park, MD
Posts: 3,230
I work on airplanes.......I can **** the **** out of an ezout and would rather rip the part off than deal with one of them......hope that makes you feel better lol
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-29-2010
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Topsail Beach, NC
Posts: 45
Somebody already suggested this but it seemed to get glossed over among all the guys in favor of getting a welder: take a dremel tool with a thin disk on it and cut a slot in the remaining stud, then attack it with a slotted screwdriver.

Back in my aircraft days, we used to do this all the time with screws that had the slots buggered up. I don't see why it wouldn't work for you in this case as well.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-29-2010
seed60's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 5,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by xp1ik99 View Post
I work on airplanes.......I can **** the **** out of an ezout and would rather rip the part off than deal with one of them......hope that makes you feel better lol
Great endorsement. lol

I've thought about just switching yokes with my other front diff too. Hopefully he can get it.

Quote:
Somebody already suggested this but it seemed to get glossed over among all the guys in favor of getting a welder: take a dremel tool with a thin disk on it and cut a slot in the remaining stud, then attack it with a slotted screwdriver.

Back in my aircraft days, we used to do this all the time with screws that had the slots buggered up. I don't see why it wouldn't work for you in this case as well.
There is a little bit sticking out but I don't think there is enough to cut a decent slot without cutting the yoke. But I'm gonna try everything.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-29-2010
buggman's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (38)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dougal County
Posts: 1,648
Why hasn't anyone mentioned drilling out the bolt & re-tapping it?
Start with a small bit like a 3/16" and work your way up to just smaller than the inner diameter of the bolt. By the time you step up a few bit sizes, it might even loosen up where you could back it out with a chisel or (my favorite tool) an old screwdriver. Then re-tap the hole to match your new bolt threads.

If you can't heat it, beat it or weld it... drill it.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-29-2010
Lord Of War's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 4,599
I like the idea of taking a grinder and making a cut in the bolt, then using a flat head to retrieve it.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-29-2010
ranger4.0's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: cambridge, ontario
Posts: 3,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Hanig View Post
Somebody already suggested this but it seemed to get glossed over among all the guys in favor of getting a welder: take a dremel tool with a thin disk on it and cut a slot in the remaining stud, then attack it with a slotted screwdriver.

Back in my aircraft days, we used to do this all the time with screws that had the slots buggered up. I don't see why it wouldn't work for you in this case as well.
This could work but chances are you won't get it out like that. Driveshaft bolts usually have blue or green loctite on them. I would try hammer and a chisel and tap in a circle. Probably work the best if you don't have enough to weld too
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-30-2010
rstangboi's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Davis, Ca
Posts: 2,583
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Of War View Post
I like the idea of taking a grinder and making a cut in the bolt, then using a flat head to retrieve it.
its worth a shot...i mean cutting into the yoke a tad wouldnt hurt anything..

either way id throw alot of pb blaster on it now and it might help you out later during extraction time.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 06-30-2010
ranger4.0's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: cambridge, ontario
Posts: 3,922
Heat is your friend!!! If you are welding a nut on but the bolt is broken off flush make sure you don't weld to the yoke! Sometimes it helps to drill a small hole in the middle of the bolt too, makes it easier to penetrate with your weld because your really only going to have enough area for a big tack weld
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Luck just turned for the worst...broke off water pump bolt dixie_boysles 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 17 05-21-2016 05:53 PM
3.0 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Broke Off....HELP! SOS Hillyard 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech 13 03-11-2010 05:11 PM
Broke a bed bolt. cchsbuzz19 General Ford Ranger Discussion 7 01-05-2010 08:32 PM
torsion bolt broke......what now? panzer Suspension Tech 30 10-24-2007 08:55 PM
uh ohh, t-bar bolt broke. UNCCRang49 Suspension Tech 11 02-05-2007 04:05 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:22 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.