Hot.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/atta..._thumbnail.jpg

Yeah that sucks, and it always finds its way to the hole in the drain pan so you have to dig it out or the oil will overflow.

Warm

Hot. And changing the oil filter on the 3.0 is a *****!!!

I dont know what happened, but I tried to change my oil today and cant get the filter off...Even went and bought this little black thing...the black thing broke...And I cant fit one of those strap things up under the 4.0 to get it off...any suggestions? For some reason I dont think im turning it the right way...I think I would remember if it wasnt lefty loosey....but lefty aint doing **** for me.


Anyone know where to get these in metal and not piece of **** plastic? Because I just cant get it off, nor can my bro that lives at the gym.
http://www.fjr1300.info/mods/images/FilterWrench12.jpg

lol dont let one of your oil changes turn into one of mine Lol

Advanced Auto Parts sells them, thats where I got mine.

Is it metal? I dont want to waste the money on another plastic one...Also...when laying down looking up at it, you turn it to the left right? because this ****er wont budge and i dont wanna risk shredding it or I woulda just jabbed a screwdriver in it and got it off.

if its on the driver side of the engine then you should spin it toward the front of the engine...but i had the same problem and just ended up shoving a screwdriver through it

I say hot... and my 93 ranger had that quick valve thing on it which was awesome fo no tools when changing my oil but i was always worried that someone would open it and drain out all my oil

Its on the passenger side, near the back of the engine, facing strait down...going to advanced autoparts tomorrow...I really dont want to stoop to getting my oil changed at a lube place just because I cant get a freaking filter off. :dead:

most of the "bad" oil is the sludge at the bottom of the pan, and is so thick that even after the oil stops dripping out of the drain hole, it has barely started to move, the extra heat helps to make it more of a fluid...



i do mine at the dealership... warranty, and free oil changes for 5 years with the purchase of my truck... even though my free oil changes often cost me $50 some how... when i do, do my own oil changes, i do it hot, let it sit for 5 minutes, just so the exhaust is cool... that's the only thing i am worried about burning me...

as for filter wrenches, those straps work well, if you can get them on... there are several other tools that work...

seen these, but never used it personally...
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...r%20Wrench.jpg

have used these, work well, but hard to get a really tight grip on them, they like to slip, especially if there is oil on the filter...
https://www.wdcart.com/cremos/catalo...lterWrench.JPG

here is half of one (the bottom of the picture is cut off) i LOVE these, but they still aren't my favourite... they do work damn well though
http://photos.autoexpress.co.uk/imag...to_18178_7.jpg

this is probably my favorite kind of wrench though...
http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/produc.../oem/25128.jpg
(from the other side)
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/g2198_300px.jpg

and of course you could use a standard strap wrench, or a chain wrench, or the strap style oil filter wrench...

make sure you prime your filter before you install it (fill it with oil), you wipe the base plate off, to make sure there is no gasket remnants, and lube up the new filter's seal so it doesn't tear when you are tightening it... and the filter only goes hand tight, and not even tight... should be till it is snug, plus 1/4 turnish

i would also change the drainplug gasket (little plastic washer) they are dirt cheap and is an easy way to help keep it from leaking...

Thats where I messed up, tightened it as tight as I could...Think I might go look for the black one that you said was your favorite...its just too tight between the frame and something else to get any of those strap wrenches or anything else like them in...need something that grips from the bottom, not the side...Guess I will see what they have today...Not in a rush anymore because next time Ill be driving my truck is to go have the trans looked at.

Thanks man.

Why don't ya all just get a K&N Oil Filter?


http://www.knfilters.com/images/auto...r-exploded.jpg


If you can't get it off by hand, just pop a wrench onto the welded nut-end =) Best filter either way! Specially if you run synthetic!

honestly, my true feelings on oil filters... they are all the same! they are all made by 1 or 2 manufactures, and the label is changed on them and different brands are put on... the only thing that k&n has that stands out, is that nut on the end, but i have seen those break off, and there are other brands that use them... i am a big fan of fram with the coating on the end... they use a spray in bed liner type deal, and dip the end of it in, so you have something to hold on to, with that you generally don't even need a filter wrench... i think it's their sure grip line...

I change mine hot. If you don't put the filter on so tight it won't be hard to take it back off. It doesn't need to be ridiculously tight, that rubber seal will do it's job if you just get it pretty snug. I have never needed an oil filter wrench on my truck.

I know there are pro's and con's about it..Warm is best. It takes a few minutes to get all the gear ready so by the time you do all that the oil will cool down some. I had the luck of finding the Fram Quick Drain for my 2.3....saves on splash back and dropping the drain plug in the oil....again!!!
I use that metal cap that fits on the end of the filter off the socket wrench extension.

hot the oil flows more freely and more of it drains out

I usually change it when it's warm.

NAPA, actually a KD part but sold at NAPA. I only use the NAPA Gold (WIx made) for the Jeep and Ranger, but both use the same metal "socket". Makes it conveinent for oil changes.

Usually after a sits for a good 10-15 minutes after a drive. Not too hot then.

The only time I have had trouble getting a filter off is the one that was on the truck when I bought it. Dealers and Lube Joints like to get them really tight just to make sure they dont leak. What I did was hammer a screw driver through the end and through the side and twisted it off. Its dirty but it works.

As for me I only use Fram filters. For anyone that has crap to say about them, my dad has used them on all of our vehicles and currently 2 of our vehicles have over 250k and one has 175k.

hot and cold. i take the turck to get the oil and then let it drain over night.

Do it hot!

Almost any filter is the same (as long as it has a check valve to prevent reverse flow)...whats more important is frequency...I use the Fram ones that have that bed line type stuff on them and never have to use a tool.

I usually start the truck up and get it a little warm. Let it sit more a few minutes to let the oil drain back down. Never will change it hot again especially on a car. Burn your hand on the exhaust manifold and then the oil burns you. No fun.