Once again, my Ranger is PARKED. - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #51  
Old 01-30-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricTodd
It's easy, first take the valve cover off and see if you have any loose rockers. That will determine if you have a collapsed lifter or bad cam lobe. Make sure you check it from top dead center to bottom dead center by rotating the crank with a breaker bar and a socket that fits on the bolt. If you have piston slap you will see it all over the piston like you took a hammer to it. I bet it's just a loose rocker arm because a push rod bouncing up and down is a terrible sound and make it seem like the engine is shot. But it's a very very easy fix. Let me know if you find a loose rocker and I'll try to explain how to set your lash.
Sounds good. I'll try my best to represent the sound I heard when it got it's worst (after a SeaFoam treatment).

The sound started out a very fast "tapping" sound. It varied with RPM proportionally, and slightly diminished when the motor was under a heavy load (i.e. "stepping on it" slightly" or going up a big hill having to cram the throttle).

By the time I got close to home after the tapping turned more severe, the tapping had become not so consistent and much more severe. It sounded as though a large stick was stuck in my fan and it was spinning around hitting the frame rails and stuff. It would get VERY bad (sounded painful to me) when I would let off the throttle and decelerate some. If I maintained a steady RPM pace, I could almost regulate it, but it still sounded very "slappy" and severe.

I'll be pulling the intake manifolds off later tonight, after I fix a washing machine for a friend. Once I get the valve cover removed, I'll check everything over with a fine toothed comb, take lots of pictures, and post up on here to see if you or anyone can help! I sure hope it's a lifter failure or even a cam, lobe, or valve problem. However, based on the sounds it made, I'm expecting a valve to be smashed to a pancake between the head and cylinder!!!
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  #52  
Old 01-30-2007
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Good luck with it! lets see some pics.
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  #53  
Old 01-31-2007
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Okay who wants to diagram my camshaft for me to check it for problems??

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  #54  
Old 01-31-2007
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Cam shaft looks okay, hard to tell about the back lobes though, but I have never seen a Ranger Roller cam wipe a lobe. Is there any play in the rockers. Check the HLA's (not lifters :) ) to see if one is collapsed. But if there is no play in the rollers then usually the HLA's are good.

IF the sound got progressivly worse, you have rod knock.

BTW, if you want to save your self some headache in the future, go to the dealer ship and drop the $35 for the real ford valve cover gasket, that Felpro blue one will eventually leak.
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  #55  
Old 01-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D94R
Cam shaft looks okay, hard to tell about the back lobes though, but I have never seen a Ranger Roller cam wipe a lobe. Is there any play in the rockers. Check the HLA's (not lifters :) ) to see if one is collapsed. But if there is no play in the rollers then usually the HLA's are good.

IF the sound got progressivly worse, you have rod knock.

"Rod knock" being connecting rod play because of a bad bearing??
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  #56  
Old 01-31-2007
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I think I've come to a realization...

When this problem started, it began tapping when I was going down the interstate at cruising speed. I quickly shut it down after shifting to neutral and coasted into a parking lot at the next exit. I had it towed to a dealership, which told me the problem was simply I was 3 quarts low on oil (out of 4.5 total). The mechanic figured one of the valve seals had gotten dry and was causing the tapping sound, but it wouldn't do it any additional harm as long as it was kept lubricated.

I soon realized I had much worse problems, and the blown head gasket symptoms appeared. I guess when it ran so low on oil, it failed a valve seal and possibly a bearing in a rod too...

If this is the case, the 302 swap will begin!!! I start taking that motor out tonight if I have too, to convince my wife it HAS to be done NOW, not after the tax return gets here...lol

How do I check the HLA's?
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  #57  
Old 01-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
"Rod knock" being connecting rod play because of a bad bearing??
Yup, means you wiped a bearing in the area that the connecting rod connects to the crank shaft. Each time you run the engine you are repeatedly beating the bearing out, which in turn will damage your crank.

SO STOP RUNNING THE ENGINE haha. I spun a bearing in my 2.3T and let it go too far, chewed the crank beyond repairable. So you maybe looking at a new crank to boot. Not fun for sure. The worst part is this, if you totally destroyed that bearing to where you have metal shavings throughout the engine, you pretty much destroyed that engine. Not good at all.


Pull the motor, pull the pan, check the rods on the crank to see if any have play, if one does you found the problem.

You should be looking for a total replacement engine for worst case scenario.
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  #58  
Old 01-31-2007
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I'll give the camshaft a final check-over before I pull the head off again. I'll have the entire head and cam assembly checked over by my ASE neighbor, and if it checks out I'll begin pulling the engine.

I'm anxious to find out if my connecting rod bearing went out or not, now. While I'm taking a look at the camshaft, I'll drain the oil and check for metal shavings.

On a side note, does anyone think it's possible to create an engine hoist with a ***-along and a well-braced ceiling joist? I thought if I securely bolt a 4x4 between two ceiling joists, I could lift the head out. Now, however, I may need to pull the whole motor out! Would it withstand that kind of weight???
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  #59  
Old 01-31-2007
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Okay, I assume to get the hydraulic lash adjusters out I would need a valve spring compressor.

Before I purchase that I want to turn the crank by hand and inspect the entire camshaft, valves, and HLA's.
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  #60  
Old 01-31-2007
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it should. We used 2 2x4's screwed to a beam in our garage, and pulled a powerstroke out of one of the wreckers.
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  #61  
Old 01-31-2007
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Just for ****s and giggles, how does your flywheel look?
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  #62  
Old 01-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Just for ****s and giggles, how does your flywheel look?
I have no idea. I'm not anywhere near that part of the engine. I'm about to pull the fan and radiator, but I've only got the camshaft exposed and fluids drained. Next is the head, which I'll be using my ceiling wench for!
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  #63  
Old 01-31-2007
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I wish I was there to help you, we could have that engine torn apart down to the short block and out of there in 2 hours :(
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  #64  
Old 01-31-2007
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Well I figured it out....I threw a rod bearing...

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This means the motor is coming out!!! I'll be taking lots of pics on the way, for those of you who like pics...

And here's the only good news of the day:

It snowed 6 inches in 6 hours and my daugther loved it!
Here it is at about 2 inches:
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  #65  
Old 01-31-2007
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so 302 time? good luck man
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  #66  
Old 01-31-2007
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Wow, you did it good, I'm waiting to see pics of the bearing now. The bearing I spun flattend out and spread to about twice the width as normal, pretty cool to see, but bad for the motor.
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  #67  
Old 01-31-2007
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Yeup...this means the 302 swap has begun.

What should I do with the power steering and A/C systems to discharge the pressure??? I've got the A/C compressor unbolted, but don't know what to do with the high and low side lines to de-pressurize them.

I'll be climbing up in the attic tomorrow to set up my ceiling motor hoist.

Based on what I've observed, here is what I will do:

Leave the exhaust manifold, head, lower intake manifold, alternator and bracket, and other various goodies attached to the head/block. I'll remove the bolts from the motor mounts, drop the tranny, then finally pull the motor.
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  #68  
Old 01-31-2007
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well your supposed to get an authorized ac place to do it but u could just take one of the fittings off.
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  #69  
Old 02-01-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fddriver02
well your supposed to get an authorized ac place to do it but u could just take one of the fittings off.
Does the junction block on the back of the A/C compressor release pressure if I unbolt it??? If not, what would be another good source to do this?

What kind of pressure are we talking about? Is it going to be explosive depressurization, or just like 50psi???

I guess it's time to reference the Haynes anyway...

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  #70  
Old 02-01-2007
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i believe u can take any fitting off and it will drain the system. i would unbolt it just before the compressor on the low side so u get everything out. pressure wise, i think its a little stronger than pulling off a air hose full of air from a garage compressor. one of my friends just cut one of the lines and he was ok but i was not there. all i can say is take the fitting off and walk away so u dont breath in the freeon
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  #71  
Old 02-01-2007
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Well, my Haynes manual says for Engine removal to just unbolt the A/C compressor and Power Steering pumps and set them aside without disconnecting the hoses. However, I figured they're going to have to come out eventually!

My Haynes says to unbolt that junction block and plug the open hose ends, so I assume if I just slightly unbolt it, it will leak out while remaining still attached. This should release the freeon in a more controlled manner than just cutting or yanking off a hose.

I've got some dust masks and safety glasses I'll be wearing, and I'll vent the garage immediately after it's done.

In the mean time, I'll be pulling the alternator and starter, followed by the alternator bracket.

Last edited by Needforspeed3685; 02-01-2007 at 12:08 PM.
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  #72  
Old 02-01-2007
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good luck man
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  #73  
Old 02-01-2007
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Update: We all love pics, so here's some to look at.

First, my current status of disassembly. I'm taking it very slow, so I don't hurt my wrist. I previously injured it and don't want to have it slow me down on this project any. I'm going through with tape and a sharpie and labeling everything, just in case. I'm taking advantage of the awesome tools I have and finding easier ways to remove bolts.
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Here is the fitting on the back of the A/C compressor I will be removing next time I go out in the garage.
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Here's a good before-swap clearance comparison shot. It looks like there is plenty of room to fit a small block and cooling accessories in there.
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And of course, my
Little Red Wagon-O-Parts
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I tell ya that starter motor was a PAIN to remove! I haven't disconnected the wires yet, since I can't get to them due to the exhaust manifold and motor mount being in the way. You can see the wires connecting to the back o f the starter directly above the black motor mount in this picture. Note the tight clearance between it and the exhaust.
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Here's a good front-end shot of the motor. It shows me that I need to remove my thermostat housing, power steering pump/bracket, and disconnect the A/C lines from the compressor to get them out from in front of the engine.
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I have every electrical connection removed and labeled, except for one mysterious one I can't get to yet between the power steering pump bracket and the block. It must be a knock sensor or something. Also, I haven't removed the oil pressure sending unit harness just yet. However, the electrical junction block was in great condition when I disconnected it:
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  #74  
Old 02-01-2007
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Can someone please identify this device? I had two vacuum connections and one sensor. It it just a vacuum sensor?
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It is bolted to the side of the ignition module support bracket, which is integrated into the alternator bracket.
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  #75  
Old 02-01-2007
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Hope the swap goes smoothly and good luck!
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