I have been all over the internet looking for torque specs for the various components for my rear driveshaft... Numbers are all different depending on what site I am on....
If ANY one knows or can help I would be most appreciative.

1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0 L -

STARTING FROM THE REAR OF THE TRUCK and moving forward.

1. 4 Flange Bolts where the drive shaft leaves the rear Yolk on the rear axle housing
   1. 70-90 (thats the range I got online), 20 ft lb difference?????
2. The driveshaft moves forward and joins to the Yolk that goes into the Carrier bearing with little Strap clip
   1. NO IDEA what the torque is here for these little 4 bolts. About 18-20 ft lbs???
   2. WEBSITE to the clips showing what I am talking about below
      1. https://www.ebay.com/i/332048405319?chn=ps&dispItem=1
   3. Blown away these little 4 bolts hold my freakin driveshaft on.
3. NOW the actual single bolt on the Yolk that holds the carrier bearing on the front part of the drive shaft.
   1. Best of found was 150 ft lbs, but no idea
4. Now the 2 Bolts that hold the actual Carrier Bearing housing down.
   1. I saw 45 ft lbs? NO idea again...
5. Finally the 4 Flange Bolts that connect the front part of the rear driveshaft to the differential and transmission.
   1. Again hear about 70-90...BUT THATS a huge difference

Last question....Should I use Lock-tight at any of these junctions? I mean it would suck to loose my driveshaft....

1. Rear FlangeBolts
2. Strap Clip (rear Driveshaft to the carrier bearing)
3. Carrier bearing 2 bolts
4. Front Flange Bolts

HAVE A GREAT DAY....and thanks in advance for anyone that can help.....

 

Yes when in doubt use Threadlocker, Use the blue color coded Loctite on items that cannot be heated safely with a heat gun or small torch.

Use red loctite on fasteners that can be heated for removal.

The four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear axle are normally 12 point 12 mm and have a factory applied threadlocker on the bolts if you order new ones.

These bolts can be a pain in the *** to remove so use quality tools to avoid damaging the head of the bolt.

I also use a small handheld torch on the flange with a wet rag wrapped arounf the base of the flange to help prevent the pinion seal from getting cooked.

With this in mind you do not need much heat just enough heat applied tot he right spot of the flange in four spots to help expand the metal slightly then the bolts normally come right out.

If your uncomfortable using heat just use a good quality impact swivel socket and 1/2-3/8 impact reducer and a half inch impact to remove these bolts.

As far a torque specifications you will not find reliable information online.

The best source for this information is found in a service manual, if you cannot afford one your public library will often have automotive service manuals available to check out for free.

I use Alldata Diy and have for years which is a online manual subscription,

Mitchell on demand is also another online subscription, Mitchell seems to be a better suit for DIY techs because they go out of their way to explain things better where Alldata expects you to know industry standard diagnostic chart legends and wiring diagrams.


http://www.alldatadiy.com/?gclid=EAI...SAAEgIVofD_BwE

http://www.eautorepair.net/app/Years...SAAEgIq6vD_BwE

 

Attached is a photo that shows the Driveshaft specifications for my 2002 ( source Alldata )

I am sure these specifications have not changed much over the years.

Perhaps this information will help avoid you having to pay for a subscription.

I am sure you know but just in case make sure you mark the driveshaft sections orientation to each other so you install them the same way to prevent the shaft from becoming Unbalanced

 

Thanks for your input....yea I got everything off....flange bolts, Carrier bearing bolts, ripped out the driveshaft. Replaced the carrier bearing and u joints just fine.
My only issue is the torque to put everything back in.
Thanks for the thoughts on red and blue threadlocker..

I guess I can go to the library...anyone else know the specs...

 

EaOutlaw....Thanks
That reads a bit confusing for me...

I assume the 12 point bolts at both ends of the driveshaft on the flanges are the 82 and 83 ft lbs.
I assume the strap clips that hold the u joint near the carrier bearing are 11-15 ft lbs
I assume the 2 bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the truck are 22 ft lbs

Does that seem right to you? Did I read that correct.

 

Yes it seems right to me.

 

15 pounds on strap clips that hold the freaking rear driveshaft to the Carrier bearing and yolk seems so light...such a weird design...such little bolts for a driveshaft connection spinning like crazy..

 

Yea I marked/scratched the flanges and corresponding locations on the driveshaft....
the location at the strap clips only goes on 1 of two ways....I scratched the bottom of the driveshaft so think I am good to go.

 

Again I do suggest you get your own subscription or printed manual somewhere and double check these specs for yourself.