2001 3.0 - The A/C remains engaged when I turn the heat on and the fan blows cool air and the volume is low. The fan blows great when A/C is selected. Any ideas? Thanks

 

Welcome to the forum

Fairly common issue on Ford Trucks

Google: Ford Ranger Blend Door

It is an electric door/flap that opens up or closes off the heater core.
Air flow always passes over the AC evaporator, whether AC is on or not, this helps Dry the air inside the cab.
Difference is whether or not air is passing thru heater core or not, and that's what the blend door does

Diagram of vent doors here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...mschematic.jpg

In lower middle you will see the Temp Door, that's the Blend door, air flow from fan passes thru the evaporator(AC) and then either directly to the vents or thru the heater core depending on what position the blend door is in


There is an outside chance your heater core is plugged up.
After engine is warmed up turn temp control to HOT
Open the hood and feel BOTH heater hoses at the firewall
Both should be hot, one may be a little cooler but not that much

And as a heads up, always reverse these hoses when its time to change coolant, every 2 to 5 years, depending on coolant you use
This reverse the flow thru the core and will make it last much longer

 

Thank you from one Canuck to another. Another question if I may - is there a switch that controls the Blend Door? If so, what is it called and where is it? Easy to replace? Thank you again.

 

The temp setting COLD<>HOT sets its position

 

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger v6 3.0 manual. I had a leak from my water pump so I replaced that and the thermostat. Then my heater stopped working, so I did a coolant flush, but it didn't do anything, so then I replaced the heater control valve, still nothing. Then I just replaced my heater core, and still but no heat I looked at the blend door actuator but mine isn't an HVAC mine's cable driven, any ideas I'm banging my head against the wall here

 

Just a thought - ensure that your new thermostat is operating properly. I have had a faulty replacement thermostat.

 

The operating temperature is normal when I drive it but when it idles the temperature drops a little bit

 

I am not a mechanic, which will be obvious, but here is what I do to check the thermostat. Start with a cold engine and the hood open. Let it idle and eventually the thermostat should open. You will be able to hear the coolant start to flow through the hose if you are close to it. You can also keep your hand on the hose and feel it when the coolant begins to flow.

 

It does sound like a faulty thermostat, or you put it in upside down.

 

Thank you guys I will replace that again

 

I'm having the same issues and looking for help. 2000 Mazda/Ford B2500. Heater core started leaking, replaced but no heat. Repairs some vacuum hoses, vacuum canister, both controls relays in the dash, diverter valve. Still no heat. Finally tonight I replaced the water pump and thermostat. The pump was shot, all the blades were rusted away, thought I found my problem but still no heat. The AC compressor is always cycling, even when I unplug the compressor I get warmer but ni hot. This one is really stumping me, any help would be greatly apprciated. Need to get this truck back on the road. TIA

 

Probably best starting your own thread, but make sure the vent controls are set correctly, only "feet" and "face" modes will not use the compressor.

How was your bleeding session? are the heater pipes in the engine bay warm?