WHY WELD a TORSEN 31??? :censored:
#2
So yeap you see some of the welds are broken, you would be correct. NOT only did the welds break but it made the diff totally pointless. IT ran peg leg which with a 4l manual, wow! sucks!!!
If you have been following my trail of broken parts this is the end for right now, well after alignment, because they got an alignment with the broken steering knuckle and wow I might post pics of how bad it is. I am going to adjust the align before i drive it to get an align. that way one of the tires is not plowing
#5
#8
My guess is they where trying to make a cheap mans old school true locker. Which can only be used off road or drag racing. Since it locks both rear wheels IDEALLY giving 50/50 power to the rear wheels. BUT a torsen works differentally then a normal diff. Welding a torsen actually screws it up and only lets power to one wheel.
http://www.torsen.com/general/general_faq.htm
Handy little article if you are a true gear head go to the traction control link off that page
http://www.torsen.com/files/Traction...ol_Article.pdf
another GREAT article on diffs
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
if you go about half way down you see the normal diff. If you weld the two spider gears it will lock the rear end together. You can actually click on the "turn" link on the animation and you can see the spider gears spin. Well if you weld them they dont spin. So you would have a diff that permanantly did what the straight line animation did. So you can only do straight line or loose terrain
http://www.torsen.com/general/general_faq.htm
Handy little article if you are a true gear head go to the traction control link off that page
http://www.torsen.com/files/Traction...ol_Article.pdf
another GREAT article on diffs
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
if you go about half way down you see the normal diff. If you weld the two spider gears it will lock the rear end together. You can actually click on the "turn" link on the animation and you can see the spider gears spin. Well if you weld them they dont spin. So you would have a diff that permanantly did what the straight line animation did. So you can only do straight line or loose terrain
Last edited by 02fx4; 09-11-2006 at 08:41 PM.
#10
I have heard people ask about welding one but I never saw one that somebody actually did it to. I forget the idea is to what make it a spool ? Why not just buy a spool and put that in some people are just stupid.
If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for a new one ?
Originally Posted by 02fx4
Already have brand new torsen in place. Torsens are pretty solid for pretty much anything esp 31 splines. More or less the best ill ever need, that I can still drive on the street
#12
Originally Posted by Ranger1
I have heard people ask about welding one but I never saw one that somebody actually did it to. I forget the idea is to what make it a spool ? Why not just buy a spool and put that in some people are just stupid.
If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for a new one ?
If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for a new one ?
The ? about buying a spool well. If you think you know what you are doing compare the price of a welding rod to that of a spool.
Its funny I have records from valvoline about how often service was performed and it was regerously maintained everything on time or ahead of schedule.
BUT they made alot of shortcuts that where just dumb. The exhaust welding job yeah Ill have to post pictures tomarrow and they did a 3" body lift but did not move the front bumper up with brackets. They did a do it yourself spray in bedlinner and did not strip the paint or even sand it down. I have pics you can see it flaking off.
The only thing that actually worried me about buying this truck I found out on my way home it was getting a little warm on the temp gauge so i looked at the rad. when I got home, and I kid you not it was SOLID mud..... so I was worried about overheating b4 I got into things but I thought to myself
Welded diff. running on one wheel
Horrible alignment
steering knuckle out of alignment
bent shock
mud filled radiator
AC on
3in lift kit
tires at 12psi
I got between 20-24mpg on the way home 400something miles. SO I am thinking that not too much can be wrong if its still getting really good mpg esp since i see a grip post atleast daily about poor mpg's
Cant wait to see what she will do running 100%
#13
#15
Originally Posted by 02fx4
Well I really dont care at all actually list i believe is 485 and i got mine for 395 cash. Yes i do have some good connections. Yes I had to get it from ford.
The ? about buying a spool well. If you think you know what you are doing compare the price of a welding rod to that of a spool.
The ? about buying a spool well. If you think you know what you are doing compare the price of a welding rod to that of a spool.
#16
Yikes! Who would do such a thing?!?! I have a new love for my new truck's rear axle. Acts alot less loopy than the Ford L/S. I know tearing burnies and what not, the old diff would engage and and it was like WHOA! WTF?! lol The torsen is turning out to be hella smoother. Haven't beat her up too bad yet to see what she can really do. Barely got enough miles to burn one tank of gas haha. That is pretty half-a$$ though man!
HTF did mud get into the radiator?? Was the antifreeze just that sludgy or was it actual mud(grit and all)?
HTF did mud get into the radiator?? Was the antifreeze just that sludgy or was it actual mud(grit and all)?
#18
Originally Posted by l2en
Yikes! Who would do such a thing?!?! I have a new love for my new truck's rear axle. Acts alot less loopy than the Ford L/S. I know tearing burnies and what not, the old diff would engage and and it was like WHOA! WTF?! lol The torsen is turning out to be hella smoother. Haven't beat her up too bad yet to see what she can really do. Barely got enough miles to burn one tank of gas haha. That is pretty half-a$$ though man!
HTF did mud get into the radiator?? Was the antifreeze just that sludgy or was it actual mud(grit and all)?
HTF did mud get into the radiator?? Was the antifreeze just that sludgy or was it actual mud(grit and all)?
#20
If it stops raining today ill snap some pics, Ive cleaned most of it up so its not that rough anymore but it still has its areas that need work I wish I would have taken pics off all the mud everywhere. I actually thought the frame rails where rusted but after pressure washing everything mutliple times They actually have most of the factory paint on them. Thanks to people on the website I used simple green and the pressure washer on the engine bay and wow cleaned her up really well. I gaurentee I have removed more than 40lbs of mud off the truck and I know there has to be more that I am missing somewhere. I have all skid plates off and hope to powder coating them later today. I dont get off work till 445 est so Hopefully it will stop by then so I can finish somethings up.
Last edited by 02fx4; 09-12-2006 at 06:42 AM.
#21
#22
It was sold as running with some problems. It had engine light on, abs light on, and airbag light on. I did test drive it and noticed it was running peg leg before I bought it but I figured I could just rebuild at worst buy a new one for $400 at most. The body lift and all the mud I obviously knew about. The only thing that was a real suprise was the cracked steering knuckle and bent shock, but both where cheap to fix so no big deal. The biggest amount of time I have spent, has actually been in the bed trying to get the crappy spray can bed liner off. I plan on getting my bed LineXd because we do alot of business with them so the owner said he would hook me up. I have not got a price yet but i figure its probably 400-450 so i hope to get it around 300-350 but we will see.
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