Should I do it? body lift question - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 02-04-2009
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I say do it. And if you see them getting ready to do something you dont like just say something. You might wanna throw in a 12 pack or something when theyre done.
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2009
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Probably just going to do this myself with 2 other people like I originally planned. I just want to take my time and it will be good experience.. I want everything done right too..

Last edited by kyle12201; 02-04-2009 at 05:55 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-04-2009
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Do it yourself!! Its no fun to mod a truck if your not the one doing the modin!! I did mine a few weekends back and I did snap one of the cab bolts off and had to replace the front lower body bushing but from Ford it only cost me about $20 for that part.
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  #29  
Old 02-04-2009
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How the hell did you get the broken bolt out? Also will a breaker bar and heat take these out? I mean I'd borrow his impact but I don't think it would work well with my old school air compressor?
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  #30  
Old 02-04-2009
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I didnt, it broke off in the threads of the lower body bushing and I couldnt get ahold of it so I got a new one from Ford for about $20. The body bushings are in two seperate parts that come together at the frame mount, the lower and the upper. The threads that the cab bolts screw into are in the lower part. I didnt heat any of them or anything and only had an issue with the one. I used a half inch breaker bar and ratchet with a 5 inch extension and an 18mm socket to get mine out.
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  #31  
Old 02-04-2009
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Do you still think I could get them out with just a breaker bar and a MAPP torch though? That stinks man, but at the same time cheap and easy fix. My truck is like 97% rust free underneath so I have no clue if those bolts are rusted yet.
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  #32  
Old 02-04-2009
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I dont see why not! Yeah, even if you do break one or two its not a budget buster to fix. All 4 cab bolts and the 2 front core supports all have replaceable lower bushings that have the threads in them and the bed threads are the ones that snap on to the frame so its all pretty easy to replace if needed.
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  #33  
Old 02-04-2009
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the other 2 are located behind the jump seats correct? or are they below the fish net under the carpet? mine fold up underneath the rear speakers how do I get at those with the breaker bar? Thanks man! Also how do you get at the 2 front core support ones?
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  #34  
Old 02-04-2009
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i too broke one of my cab bolts
i ended up putting it in the vice heated it up and put the vice grips on the little bit of the bolt and it came out no prob
be careful with the MAPP gas as it burns very hot and it will catch tos rubber bushings on fire real quick i just used a little propane torch and it did the trick
you can do it with a ratchet but it will take longer
if you use heat the bolts will come out easy it took me all of maybe 10 min to get al the cab bolts lose with my little impact and crappy compressor
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  #35  
Old 02-04-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle12201 View Post
the other 2 are located behind the jump seats correct? or are they below the fish net under the carpet? mine fold up underneath the rear speakers how do I get at those with the breaker bar? Thanks man! Also how do you get at the 2 front core support ones?
you have to take out the jump seats and pull up the carpet they have little plastic caps that cover them
for the core support you have to have an 18" ext and you stick it down through a hole in the core support and take the nut off the top and on the bottom you have to take the bumper off to get to it i ended up holding the bushing/nut with a big pipe wrench and then you have to pull the bolt out from the bottom this one was a PITA cuz it was rusted the worst
make sure to spray all the bolts with some penetrating lube a few days b4 hand
heres a link to the instructions that tell you every thing
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._BodyLift.html

Last edited by 01 ranger 4x4; 02-04-2009 at 06:24 PM.
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  #36  
Old 02-04-2009
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Mine is a 4 door and I had to remove the rear seats to get at the bolts. Once they were out then I just popped the rubber cover out and there was the bolt. Im not sure but on a 2 door if thats what you have I think you might have to remove the seat to but not sure. If its a 2 door then you can just pull the carpet back from the back wall and see if you can get at the rubber cover for the bolt and go from there.
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  #37  
Old 02-04-2009
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Yeah I've read those but it shows the 2 rears for a 4 door not a 2 and I didn't know if they were in the same spot or not I've seen some below the fish net, others behind the jump seats.

Cool I have both a propane and a mapp people said a mapp would probably work better. I have an old school compressor, probably just borrow my neighbors impact if I can't get them out with my breaker bar or my wratchet. Yeah I definatly feel more confident about doing this myself and with 2 people I trust now.......
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2009
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when i used my breaker bar some one had to hold the bushing with some big channel locks but for some reasn when i used the impact they stayed and thy came right out
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  #39  
Old 02-04-2009
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Yeah that shouldn't be too hard, I'll have 2 other sets of hands while doing this anyways.

BTW, Should I get gap guards? Or would it look bad without them..

Last edited by kyle12201; 02-04-2009 at 06:49 PM.
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2009
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dont buy them you can make them for cheap
i dont have them but i plan on makin them soon
the gap doesnt bother me but when you look at from a ways away you will see the gap
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  #41  
Old 02-05-2009
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How would you make them? I wonder how many members here actually run them?
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  #42  
Old 02-05-2009
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I got the set with mine, I still haven't put them on though lol
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  #43  
Old 02-05-2009
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Does it look bad with out them? I don't think I'm going to buy them lol seems like a waist no one seems to run them anyways, especially when there an extra $80 off summit.
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  #44  
Old 02-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle12201 View Post
BTW, Should I get gap guards? Or would it look bad without them..
yes dont buy them go to Home depo and get stair rubber runners.. use the BACK side out its not rubbed. cost you under $12 then some self taping screws and screw into the bed lip...



Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle12201 View Post
Does it look bad with out them? I don't think I'm going to buy them lol seems like a waist no one seems to run them anyways, especially when there an extra $80 off summit.
yes it does i did mine in under 20 min about a day after the lift because it looks like crap...
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  #45  
Old 02-05-2009
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Alright nice sounds like a good alternative, do you have to like cut them to shape so its not just like a sqaure of rubber? or no? I'll pick some of that up, Thanks .

Last edited by kyle12201; 02-05-2009 at 01:06 PM.
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  #46  
Old 02-05-2009
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you dont need any for the front its just the rear. I'll try and get some pics..
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  #47  
Old 02-05-2009
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Yeah I agree, front's aren't necessary. Rears would be super easy to make, just cut a rectangle out of some rubber material.
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  #48  
Old 02-05-2009
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Yeah I was thinking the same thing no body will see the fronts anyways. Yeah if you could hook me up with a pic I'd appreciate it.

Quote:
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Rears would be super easy to make, just cut a rectangle out of some rubber material.
Sounds easy enough thanks man.
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  #49  
Old 02-05-2009
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Ok here is mine, you can make it longer wider all to your idea's mine is very basic...

mine is actually a runner cut in half i didnt like the look of it full width..


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here is the self tapping sheet screws can be bought at any hardware store...


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now here is the "back" side as it is mounted... (that is actually the top side of the real product as being used as a stair runner)



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now here is the front wheel well your factory one will be fine i see no need to install a different one..




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  #50  
Old 02-05-2009
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Yeah the fronts look fine. Nice looks pretty basic that's what I was going to cut mine like. Thanks for the pics that saves me soo much money.

Oh one more question you have to drill holes on the metal lip of the bed correct? I was just going to use screws from the hardware store would that be fine also..
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