Truck has been acting really weird lately, id tape the brakes and it would hirrlbly nose dive! So, i finally took some time this morning to take the truck in and get her looked at, as well as get the foglights replaced.

The guy called me and said i need a front brake job, and i should go ahead and do the rears, i have a CM left in the rear....

is this normal for 28k miles??

i have 32x11.50 Tires on there now, and i do go in the mud sometimes

 

I JUST replaced my rears at 44k, and need to do my fronts badly, just waiting for the weather to permit it.

I dunno how hard you were on your brakes, or how long they should last, but it seems to me like longer than 28k...

 

i got 55k on my truck.. just replaced my front rotor's and pads.. the rear's are doing great that i kno of.. i have to get them adjusted cuz my truck seem like the front brakes a a little to touchy..

 

i replaced everything brake wise on my truck at 15k, all of it was crap. the new set lasted me till now and im at 55k and thinking about some new stuff from Jusnes Modified , they got some good brake stuff for our trucks. PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads

they go real fast when you pull stuff around like this...

 

with larger tires and hard driving you could need them yes

 

I just relplaced my front rotors and pads, the rotors where over 60$ a piece from advanced auto...sucks..

Rocky

 

the rears shouldnt need to be replaced that often, they are drum brakes and rarely do much of the stopping since there is not weight in the rear, and when you hit the brakes the weight transfers to the front anyway. 25k is not that uncommon to need to be replacing brakes

 

for the rear, mud can screw up the rear brakes very very easy, after you go mudding you should pull the wheels and drums and clean them out,

i had a kid with a ranger with 33s come in ( kid was a real *** )replaced his front and rear brakes, he went 15k on them and they were all gone again. the fronts locked up due to the caliper slide pins becoming dry from all the mostuire and rusting. for the rears everythign fell apart on the drivers side because he had so much mud in there, it would not allow the brakes to release. if you going to mud, be prepaird to go through brakes unless you take care of the brakes, its like the same thing for fluids in the diffs .... just keep an eye out for things like that.

:D

 

wellllllllllllllll bigbro, if i knew how to pull the rear drums, that would be much easier!!


i have never checked the diffs.... what do i need to do, to check them?

 

the drums just slide off after you take the wheel off. they may take some convincing to get them off, mine did. Just working it side to side, jiggleing it up and down, and rotating them while pulling outward.

 

what he said.

as for checking the diffs ... there is a fill plug on the housing which is a 3/8 drive wrench, pull the fill plug out, see if the fluid looks 'milky' if its cloudy or milky you have water contamination, and the fluid should be changed. if its still a clear like supstance you should be fine...

 

This topic title sucks.

 

He doesn't know what it call... lol

 

I have 65K on my original brakes (drums still had the clip things from the factory on the studs), but I need new brakes BAD and I have little P225/70R15 tires.

My mom's truck has 29K on it and the brakes still work great, but she also has the little tires.

 

I'm on 53,000 with the factory brakes.

 

meh

 

alrighty 3 word wonder.......rephrase what ya said, it makes sense not.

 

i have 41 k and the back is still fine.
changed the fronts at 36k

 

why would anyone want powerslot rotors???

 

Why not? they stop a lot better than stock!! thats probably why

 

how???

seems to me that you lose more braking surface if you think about it....

i know what manufacturers claim when it comes to them stopping better. Slotted, X-drilled rotors were designed by and for auto cross type competitors. more as means of extra cooling due to constant braking under high speeds.

it makes no sense to me to have them on a truck, especially a 4wd...to me it just screams bad wheel bearings...I, myself, do quite a bit of 4 wheeling and offroad driving, and given Ford's brake set-up on our trucks, having drilled, slotted rotors give mud and debris more places to hide in the front end.

if you want efficient braking, take the cheapest set of rotors you can find for your truck and have them cryo treated...guaranteed to work better than any slot or drill pattern you could ever design, and will last 10x longer, 100% cooler, and alot easier on pad wear....

 

we do not sell drilled rotors, we only sell slotted ones, and the slots are not cut all the way through the rotor. they stay cooler and help evacuate gasses generated by the brake pads. they are also available with a CRYO treatment.

i cant offer you anything more than facts to counter your point, which can be found on power slot's website. i cant make you believe something you dont want to, and i wont try, haha