Alternator going bad
#1
12-06-2005
Alternator going bad
My damn alternator I noticed tonight when I am at idle the needle on the battery guage is low and when I am cruising I can watch the needle climb also my heater kicks in higher when I am crusing. Theres only 67000 miles on it oh well...
With my new addition in 7 KC lights with a total of 850 watts I am getting parts ready for a dual battery setup. Any recomendations on alternator size and a reliable place to get one at?
With my new addition in 7 KC lights with a total of 850 watts I am getting parts ready for a dual battery setup. Any recomendations on alternator size and a reliable place to get one at?
#2
12-06-2005
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#3
12-06-2005
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Eric,
When you upgrade your alternator.... using a 130-200A alternator will require you to upgrade the cable that goes from the alternator to the battery. I would suggest using 4 ga fine stranded wire for the increased load.
You also might consider upgrading your battery to one with larger capacity. This will assist your alternator by increasing the storage for the amps you need to run all those lights.
OR 4x4
When you upgrade your alternator.... using a 130-200A alternator will require you to upgrade the cable that goes from the alternator to the battery. I would suggest using 4 ga fine stranded wire for the increased load.
You also might consider upgrading your battery to one with larger capacity. This will assist your alternator by increasing the storage for the amps you need to run all those lights.
OR 4x4
#4
12-06-2005
One other thing to consider.
Many, if not most, high output alternators can actually produce lower volts at idle! Athough your overall capacity can go up, your idle charging may not -- though it will certainly be higher than it is with a bum alternator.
You can get around this to some extent, if you don't "race" around at high RPM's a lot, by using a smaller alternator pulley.
Many, if not most, high output alternators can actually produce lower volts at idle! Athough your overall capacity can go up, your idle charging may not -- though it will certainly be higher than it is with a bum alternator.
You can get around this to some extent, if you don't "race" around at high RPM's a lot, by using a smaller alternator pulley.
#5
12-06-2005
A few things here.
Pretend you have no batteries. They don't exist. They're invisible. They are not connected. Ignore them for a few minutes. Your alternator must be able to supply the load put upon it by itself. Including your stock high beams and fog lights, you have over 80 AMPS of lighting on that truck and your alternator is only 90 amps. You've left yourself with less than 10 amps to run the rest of the truck which is clearly not enough. I wouldn't get anything less than 130 amps when you upgrade that alternator, preferably more. And make sure you see what the alternator will produce at idle. Like Mr John recomendded, the smaller pully might be a good idea as well.
Now unhide the battery. The primary function of a car battery is to the start the vehicle. The secondary purpose is to power accessories when the engine is not running therefore not turning the alternator. The batteries should never be relied upon to supplement an under rated alternator. The only thing that does is prevent the battery from recharging and sucks it down instead. Eventually, you will suck it down to the point where your ignition can't function and the engine will stall. Guess what, it isn't going to start again either. Dual batteries are great for having a lot of engine-off power reserves. But you can't use it to have a big buffer for a crappy alternator.
Pretend you have no batteries. They don't exist. They're invisible. They are not connected. Ignore them for a few minutes. Your alternator must be able to supply the load put upon it by itself. Including your stock high beams and fog lights, you have over 80 AMPS of lighting on that truck and your alternator is only 90 amps. You've left yourself with less than 10 amps to run the rest of the truck which is clearly not enough. I wouldn't get anything less than 130 amps when you upgrade that alternator, preferably more. And make sure you see what the alternator will produce at idle. Like Mr John recomendded, the smaller pully might be a good idea as well.
Now unhide the battery. The primary function of a car battery is to the start the vehicle. The secondary purpose is to power accessories when the engine is not running therefore not turning the alternator. The batteries should never be relied upon to supplement an under rated alternator. The only thing that does is prevent the battery from recharging and sucks it down instead. Eventually, you will suck it down to the point where your ignition can't function and the engine will stall. Guess what, it isn't going to start again either. Dual batteries are great for having a lot of engine-off power reserves. But you can't use it to have a big buffer for a crappy alternator.
#6
12-06-2005
#7
12-06-2005
Originally Posted by SoundPer4mance
i was going to list some 200 amp alternators on the site soon, if you need one, ill list it sooner!
93-01 Ranger All engine sizes 200 AMP 3G $225.00
http://www.mralternator.com/alternators/ford.html
granted that does not include shipping
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12-06-2005
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#9
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#11
12-06-2005
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
A few things here.
Pretend you have no batteries. They don't exist. They're invisible. They are not connected. Ignore them for a few minutes. Your alternator must be able to supply the load put upon it by itself. Including your stock high beams and fog lights, you have over 80 AMPS of lighting on that truck and your alternator is only 90 amps. You've left yourself with less than 10 amps to run the rest of the truck which is clearly not enough. I wouldn't get anything less than 130 amps when you upgrade that alternator, preferably more. And make sure you see what the alternator will produce at idle. Like Mr John recomendded, the smaller pully might be a good idea as well.
Now unhide the battery. The primary function of a car battery is to the start the vehicle. The secondary purpose is to power accessories when the engine is not running therefore not turning the alternator. The batteries should never be relied upon to supplement an under rated alternator. The only thing that does is prevent the battery from recharging and sucks it down instead. Eventually, you will suck it down to the point where your ignition can't function and the engine will stall. Guess what, it isn't going to start again either. Dual batteries are great for having a lot of engine-off power reserves. But you can't use it to have a big buffer for a crappy alternator.
Pretend you have no batteries. They don't exist. They're invisible. They are not connected. Ignore them for a few minutes. Your alternator must be able to supply the load put upon it by itself. Including your stock high beams and fog lights, you have over 80 AMPS of lighting on that truck and your alternator is only 90 amps. You've left yourself with less than 10 amps to run the rest of the truck which is clearly not enough. I wouldn't get anything less than 130 amps when you upgrade that alternator, preferably more. And make sure you see what the alternator will produce at idle. Like Mr John recomendded, the smaller pully might be a good idea as well.
Now unhide the battery. The primary function of a car battery is to the start the vehicle. The secondary purpose is to power accessories when the engine is not running therefore not turning the alternator. The batteries should never be relied upon to supplement an under rated alternator. The only thing that does is prevent the battery from recharging and sucks it down instead. Eventually, you will suck it down to the point where your ignition can't function and the engine will stall. Guess what, it isn't going to start again either. Dual batteries are great for having a lot of engine-off power reserves. But you can't use it to have a big buffer for a crappy alternator.
id opt for 0/0 wire, but thats me. the alt for 93-01 rangers is a 3G, the 2002+ is a 4G. if ur wanting to upgrade ur alt on the cheap and have a 93-01 u ca head to the junkyard and get a 130A alt from a taurus/sable.
there are two style 3Gs...old serp and new serp belt style. the one in the link is a new style serp. also there is a large case and small case.
#14
12-06-2005
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well im trying to give the best prices i can to people. to be honest, there arent a whole lot of products int he store yet because i spend all day drilling suppliers to find the best prices. the difficulty i have is i dont have the money to do buy ins to get really good deals, so im just pulling strings left and right. I may be able to match mr alternator with some nice completely new alternators, but i need to know if theirs are all new or reman with new parts to upgrade them
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#16
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#19
12-07-2005
Bob
truckperformance sells a 200 amp alt for 300+
http://truckperformance.com/products...ions/sf6_4.0l/
If you could sell a 200 amp alt for 275 shipped or so id say that would be a good price.
truckperformance sells a 200 amp alt for 300+
http://truckperformance.com/products...ions/sf6_4.0l/
If you could sell a 200 amp alt for 275 shipped or so id say that would be a good price.
#20
12-07-2005
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The alternators we sell are all 100% new with the heaviest duty parts available. Im not sure on price but im shooting for the $259 shipped range for a 200 amp, i would say give or take about $15 from there, we will also be offering the upgraded primary wire, but I have to do a little thinking on it, its a little tricky in these trucks. they will be 4 gauge thin stranded cable, with an inline fuse to match the alternator rating. The fuse holders and connectors are pricey for 4 gauge, so we will be looking at around $40-50 for the upgraded wire.
If some of you are serious about wanting one soon, i can add it to the site tonight. anyone?
If some of you are serious about wanting one soon, i can add it to the site tonight. anyone?
#21
12-07-2005
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