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would have been better to do it and not need it, than need it and not do it.
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Ummm... I think the main topic was the head... I think... I don't remember...
Anyways, if I was working on this truck, I would do a "Block Test" on the truck. You can get the tester at Napa for about $50. What it is, is a deal you stick in your radiator cap opening and siphin (sp) the AIR out of the colant system ( you may need to drain some collant first). You monitor a liquid inside the siphin, if it turns yellow, you have a bad head/head gasket (seal at the head gasket), If it remains blue/purple, you have a bad gasket somewhere else on the motor or a cracked block. If you lived anywhere close to me Iwould be willing to meet up with you and do the test quick, but I don't think you live by me. Hope this helps. Keep in mind, the second time you take the motor out will be alot faster then the first. :) |
Dont feel bad, I rebuild my engine and Exactly 100 miles later it started knocks like hell.....so we had to take it BACk out and tear it down. Ended up, one of the Wrist pins (thats pressed in) back out and rode up and down my cyl wall for a couple of miles. had lil metal balls EVERYWHERE in there...machine shop end up fixing everything for me for free and gave me another rebuild kit for free. They said they had never seen one back out b4........they even had to sleeve the block.
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Be careful of that, that is what blew my last 4.0
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did you have the head pressure tested and checked for cracks?
i guessing not, so now you have to do the job again and probley need a lower end also seeing as the coolant has ruined the bearings causing it to knock. i would just put a junkyard motor in it. i have been watching this from the begining and keept quit, seems everytime i try to give my professional opinion on the proper way to fix cars i get bashed on this forum buy idiots who have no clue as to what there talking about. good luck with the repair. |
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
i have been watching this from the begining and keept quit, seems everytime i try to give my professional opinion on the proper way to fix cars i get bashed on this forum buy idiots who have no clue as to what there talking about. good luck with the repair. |
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
i have been watching this from the begining and keept quit, seems everytime i try to give my professional opinion on the proper way to fix cars i get bashed on this forum buy idiots who have no clue as to what there talking about.
good luck with the repair. |
i get payed good money to fix cars right the first time, thats all i am going to say.
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I think, Mark, that the problem has less to do with what you say, than how you say it. But you seem to be more careful in your wording lately.
I would urge you not to keep bringing up how you've been bashed -- many will take it for whining (not me though -- I was one of the ones bashing you so I know it's the truth, lol). |
I don't pay myself anything to fix stuff right the first time :biglaugh:
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my ranger is at the dealership for this exact problem ( rad was half empty when i bought it and bought it in once already, they said couldn't find any sign of coolant loss- took an oil analysis for them to look at the truck again)
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Originally Posted by ringer4x4
my ranger is at the dealership for this exact problem ( rad was half empty when i bought it and bought it in once already, they said couldn't find any sign of coolant loss- took an oil analysis for them to look at the truck again)
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i hope...has been doing it since bought the ranger in april but as already mentioned have bought it in once already and they didn't do anything as couldn't find any sign of coolant loss... my biggest concern is oil analysis said could have high cylinder wear... huge concern to me as spent $12 000 on a 7 yr truck ( had about 65000 miles when purchased)
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oya
Needforspeed did you check the dipstick tube gasket/oring? I know it's a long shot but I once had oil loss in a Crown vic and that turned out to be it. Just a guess. Good luck.
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^^^^ There was no point in bring that part of this thread up again... Don't stir the pot, no pun intended....
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hoping they are fixing it this time.... has been in about a week now ( but had it a week last time and did nothing other than burn my gas) from the sounds of this thread if they don't mention that they didn't machine the heads ( i assume the intake as well to match) this problem will be coming back... when i first got this ranger regretted it at first as seemed to be a gas guzzler ( especially coming off hondas!) but since adding a aftermarket ignition am happy with it
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got mine back today i hope its fixed this time ( fixed under warranty) replaced both head gaskets and fixed the cracked cylinder head- am amazed they didn't catch/ fix it the first time it went in!
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Originally Posted by ringer4x4
got mine back today i hope its fixed this time ( fixed under warranty) replaced both head gaskets and fixed the cracked cylinder head- am amazed they didn't catch/ fix it the first time it went in!
Originally Posted by ns_red7
Needforspeed did you check the dipstick tube gasket/oring? I know it's a long shot but I once had oil loss in a Crown vic and that turned out to be it. Just a guess. Good luck.
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they resurfaced one head and the cracked head they replaced
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Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
I never thought of that. However, there was CLEAR evidence of coolant in my oil, so I knew it had problems. I'll go check it right now!
*just to stir the pot*i mean bowl*i mean.....no pun intended* |
Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
As you may or may not know, I recently replaced ALL of the gaskets on my 2000 2.5L 4-bangity-banger after noticing a milky substance on my dipstick. I got a professional opinion and decided I had blown a head-gasket, and was excited to do the work myself.
However, today I am angry to find my truck knocking again and showing signs of coolant in the oil once again. I am positive this isn't caused by a gasket failure. As a temporary fix, I had my wife pick up a half-case of oil to flush through the truck until more serious repairs can occur. This will temporarily eliminate the coolant (i.e. lack of lubrication). What, other than a cracked head, could be the cause of coolant making it's way into the engine and residing in the oil? Before I replace the head, I want to make sure I rule out EVERY other possible cause of this knocking and foul-smelling oil. Is it possible: My BLOCK is cracked? I have a bad seal other than:
Thank you all for your valuable input. I will be changing my oil in the upcoming minutes, and plan to replace the head before the weekend if I decide that is what the problem is! |
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