WTF did my bed twist? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 07-22-2008
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nah man this truck is like brand new,there not even rusted underneath yet, im sure with some heat of a torch and a good torx wrench theyll pop off, i can always ask my neighbor too since he has a garage full of lifts, tools and other goodies. im going to purchase a torx wrench and see what happens. when i poped that liner off the underbed was completely clean, mines mounds of pine needles ;/ other than that 0 rust and the paint was really clean as well.

how much do you guys think a torx wrench would go for? i need to wait till i get more money though :(
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  #27  
Old 07-22-2008
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Originally Posted by Jmhm17 View Post
you live in the north east the only way your going to get that bed off is if you cut the torx heads off, then your going to have to heat the **** out of the studs and slowly turn them off, then replace with new bolts.

that was the only way i got my bed off when i did my body lift. PB blaster is useless on body bolts that see salt for almost 6 months out of the year, so dont even try.. just get a grinder and go to town
Don't say that every truck is different. Stuff like this turns people off of doing mods. His could come out like butter. A socket wrench would be the first place to start if that doesn't work get like a 18" breaker bar and that should take them out.
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  #28  
Old 07-22-2008
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Originally Posted by kyle12201 View Post
nah man this truck is like brand new,there not even rusted underneath yet, im sure with some heat of a torch and a good torx wrench theyll pop off, i can always ask my neighbor too since he has a garage full of lifts, tools and other goodies. im going to purchase a torx wrench and see what happens. i dont live near the coast either i doubt im near sea salt ;\
You don't even need to heat it, Ford doesn't put Loctite on the bed bolts.
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  #29  
Old 07-22-2008
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oh they don't? :-D schweet ill pick up a torx wrench or a breaker bar and go from there.. but wouldnt heat make them come out easier? even if theres no loctite?
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  #30  
Old 07-22-2008
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Just go get a whole set of torx bits from that go up to size 60 and fit on a 3/8 ratchet, a good set will already have the bits pressed into a socket.

If you work on your truck alot, you will need them, the ranger is infested with these. I think the biggest in a ranger is a t-60, and that is the seat belts.

I got a set and paid $9 and keep it in my truck all the time, comes in a handy little case.
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  #31  
Old 07-22-2008
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oh they don't? :-D schweet ill pick up a torx wrench or a breaker bar and go from there.. but wouldnt heat make them come out easier? even if theres no loctite?
See I really don't know, on my core support bolts I heated the crap out of one and got it out but the other side I got out with the same amount of force and no heat. If you cant get them out without it you can always give it a try. Spray some PB blaster on it the night before though.
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  #32  
Old 07-22-2008
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
Don't say that every truck is different. Stuff like this turns people off of doing mods. His could come out like butter. A socket wrench would be the first place to start if that doesn't work get like a 18" breaker bar and that should take them out.


ok well use my method as a last resort then.. my truck was really rusted so that is why i whent that route..

any why would cutting the bolts turn people away from moding? lol who said life was easy it takes what it takes to get the job done, granted its kinda half assed but like i said i had no other option..
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  #33  
Old 07-22-2008
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ok well use my method as a last resort then.. my truck was really rusted so that is why i whent that route..

any why would cutting the bolts turn people away from moding? lol who said life was easy it takes what it takes to get the job done, granted its kinda half assed but like i said i had no other option..
Cutting bolts and turning a wrench is 2 different levels of work lol. I know if I had read that I had to grind off the head of a bolt when I first started modding I probably wouldn't have done whatever it was.
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  #34  
Old 07-22-2008
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i guess thats what seperates the men from the boys hahaha im just messin
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  #35  
Old 07-22-2008
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bed liners!

hey if your going to do a spray on liner do not again DO NOT use rhino. They do not sand the bed so it WILL peel. The best company to use is called ultimate liners. If your anywhere near New Mexico I strongly Recomend SMITHS ULTIMATE LINERS. My bro owns it and they take the time each truck deserves. laters
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  #36  
Old 07-22-2008
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i guess thats what seperates the men from the boys hahaha im just messin
haha.
Every lie starts from a bit of truth.
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  #37  
Old 07-23-2008
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haha.
Every lie starts from a bit of truth.
shhhh i was trying to be nice :) haha
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  #38  
Old 07-23-2008
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shhhh i was trying to be nice :) haha
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  #39  
Old 07-24-2008
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Okay, I'm a little confused. Wouldn't heating the bolts cause the opposite effect? The heat would expand the metal. So the OD of the bolt would get bigger and the ID of the hole would get smaller. Hence making them even tighter. Please explain.
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  #40  
Old 07-25-2008
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heating the bolt will soften the metal, it acts like a lubricant when you heat it up. i dont know the physics behind it but it works..
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  #41  
Old 07-25-2008
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heating the metal will make it "softer", which will make it easier for the bolt to come out..
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  #42  
Old 07-25-2008
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Actually the heating is the melt the locktite that Ford uses on the bolts. The bed normally doesn't have any on it but sometimes Ford does weird things. Just get a good breaker bar you won't have to worry about heating them.
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  #43  
Old 07-25-2008
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yes it will melt the loc tight but it dose soften the metal.. i have done it with bolts that dont have loc tight on them, heat will actualy "liquify" metal making it lubricated. to put it in prespective if you run a motor pull all the oil out of it and keep it running at a high rpm the heat will actualy "lubricate" the cylinder walls, as soon as the motor cools down it locks up.. same concept..

same thing if you have a cross threaded bolt, if you heat it up you can actualy recreate the threads to where it is crossed and the bolt will come out but 9 times out of 10 the bolt snaps, unless your tapping it..
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  #44  
Old 07-25-2008
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Ah I see where your coming from now, I guess I miss understood you the first time. I heated the crap out of my core support bolts and that didnt do anything for them lol. Time to bring out the grinder!
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  #45  
Old 07-25-2008
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yeah i need to pick up a breaker bar when i get some more cash so i can fix my bed. in the meantime i guess its fine, but looks stupid if your actually looking at that part of the bed and notice things like that like i do.. hahah i think i have ocd on vehicles :-(
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  #46  
Old 07-25-2008
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I actually did do a BL on 1 ranger that had BLUE loc-tite already on the bolts. Weird.

But even on rusted crap mud trucks...never had a problem with bed bolts. Now cab bolts...different story...they are a PITA. Lots of HEAT.

Get yourself a good breaker...or even use a 1/2" socket with a cheater pipe...and go to town. Go slow. It should come right out, they are about the same torque as wheel lugs (100ft#), so don't be surprised if your putting your weight into it.
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  #47  
Old 07-26-2008
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yeah i used a huge alen wrench and tried it befor, i threw all my strength and weight into that thing and still nothing. i need a breaker bar asap.
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  #48  
Old 07-26-2008
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I got my 18 3/4" 1/2 drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight for 7 bucks 2 weeks ago. I get most of my tools from them now, can't beat the prices.
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  #49  
Old 07-28-2008
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The main reason I asked for an explaination about the heat is because I have another problem. The ball mount for my trailer hitch is stuck in the hitch. Would heating it have the same effect and it should be easy to pull out? I was using the logic that if I heat it, the ball mount will expand and the ID of the hitch will contract, hence making it tighter. If I were able to put extreme cold to it, it would have the opposite effect and should come right out. For what it's worth, the hitch is a standard steel hitch, but the ball mount it stainless.
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  #50  
Old 07-28-2008
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For my bed bolts I had to really jerk on em with a breaker bar, It took me a long time but I finally got em out and now they come out easy. My truck has a lot of rust so I can't see you having "that" much trouble with it
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