$125 Fuel Pump vs $300 Fuel Pump? Which to get?
 

**I'm not sure this is in the correct forum ... if not, please move. Thanks.**

Alright, so my fuel pump went out quite a while ago and I have been putting off replacing it by priming the lines by hand by turning the key back and forth for a couple minutes before starting the truck. Probably horrible, I know ... but I'm sorta broke. :P So, I want to replace it, but I am not sure what I NEED and the guys at the auto parts store just sell the stuff, they didn't know much about my questions. Is the $300 pump overpriced/high performance? Obviously it comes with extra equipment ... is this stuff that you generally need when replacing the pump? Or is the bare-bones $125 kit all that you generally needs, and the $300 kit is overkill? I know that the $125 kit doesn't come with a strainer, but that is only an extra $25.

$125 Fuel Pump:
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...E2534/image/4/
To view the spec and details:
Airtex Master/Fuel Pump (E2534) | 2006 Ford Ranger 2WD 6 Cylinders U 3.0L MFI | AutoZone.com




$300 Fuel Pump:
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...2363M/image/4/
To view the specs and details:
Airtex Master/Fuel Pump (E2363M) | 2006 Ford Ranger 2WD 6 Cylinders U 3.0L MFI | AutoZone.com

The $125 pump is just that the pump, you'll have to pull the assembly out of the tank and take the pump off of it and install the new pump. The $300 kit comes with the complete assembly including the sending unit. Basically it really boils down to how much work you really want to do and if you need the sending unit or not. It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the whole assembly as both parts do go out and the job isn't fun to do. But being on a tight budget, you could probably get away with just replacing the pump.

I just had to replace the pump in my '03. I considered the cheaper route but decided to scrape up the funds to just get an entire new Ford assembly with the sending unit and all. Just peace of mind and convenience I guess. With the bed off, swapping in a whole new unit is a 10 minute job.

Alright, thanks for the help, y'all. :) One last question ... is it a fairly clean project, or some fuel will likely be spilled?

As long as the tank isn't filled to the brim, it shouldn't leak fuel. You might leak some fuel from the fuel lines when you disconnect them. Probably wouldn't hurt to lay a piece of cardboard or something to catch the fuel under the truck.

You might want to shop around.

The Airtex E2534 kit is available from RockAuto for around $95 shipped. Add a strainer for about $15. They also have the complete Airtex E2363M fuel pump assembly for under $200 shipped.

The pump assemblies vary with the wheelbase of the truck because the fuel tank is different for each wheelbase. So be sure that the pump you order matches your Ranger's wheelbase. I mention this because the part numbers that you posted are listed for 2 different wheelbases.

Reg cab, 6 ft box is about 112"
Reg cab, 7 ft box is about 118"
Supercab, 6 ft box is about 126"

Dang. I have already got it ordered from AutoZone for just under $170 total for the strainer and pump only. Yea, I was just posting the 2 pictures form the site ... I have a 4-door extended cab 2WD, so they gave me the one they said I needed.

The factory Motorcraft Fuel pump assembly will run you only $479.... Eek!

Make sure to use the new gasket and also make sure the locking ring is in good shape, if not get a new one; nothing worse than putting in a new pump just ot have it leak around the Pump/Sending Unit.
Sometimes the Locking Ring can be cleaned and straightened out by slight tapping but for an additional $10 get a new one if need be.

Also, if you are going the Bed-Off route, start by spraying the he!! out of the bed bolts (once or twice) and if you can get to them wire brush any threads below the spring nut.

If you are dropping the tank, again start by spraying all of the hardware for the tank mounting.

AND either way, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, all of the area around the tank while things are apart.
High pressure air helps a lot.

I replaced my fuel pump a few years ago. I backed my truck on ramps, blocked the front wheels safely and it wasn't bad at all. A friend provided help. That extra hand is invaluable.

Disconnected hoses and fuel lines. Dropped the driveshaft and it was a straightforward job(mark it to get it back on properly). Heed the previous post and clean it up while you are there. Take your time and be safe. My tank was close to empty so we didn't lose any fuel. Be careful not to drop anything in tank while installing new pump. i.e. dirt, dust, etc. ;)

I'm working alone, and in limited space, so I figure I will drop my tank. I've have been keeping it under a 1\4 tank for a week. It keeps raining every other day (and I don't have a garage), then it snowed ... so, I haven't had a good chance to do it, yet. :/

Yea, I heard it's best to set aside a good while before you even start the job to make sure everything is 100% clean. I plan to clean it very well, just to be safe, because I live on a muddy dirt road, so I am sure it could use a good scrubbing under there anyways. hahaha

Thanks alot for all the help and advice. I've diagnosed and fixed quite a bit of problems with my truck (from alternator to fuel filter to fuel pump) thanks to this site. :D

I got mine here...an actual Motorcraft complete pump, new sealed in the box.



I took off the bed to do my pump but I had the bed bolts out a few years back to get the Line-X sprayed in and had replaced the bolts and put anti-seize on them so they came out fairly easily this time

I ended up with a bill of $175 for the pump, strainer, and the tool to take the fuel lines off.