1" Body Lift - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 08-15-2009
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If I bought another late model ranger it would probably end up with a 1" body lift.
When I think about how I would like one setup, I think a 1" body lift, mild fiberglass fenders up front (like a 2" bulge and 2" rise), pulled bedsides and 33x12.50's on 15x8's.
No cranking the torsion bars to ruin the ride, no excessive height, but the advantages of a 33x12.50 with a little lower COG. The 1" just gives a little bit of extra clearance for tires in a different way then cranking the torsion bars. If you crank the torsion bars 1", they will still compress to the same spot (bump stops) and that's when tires are going to rub. A 1" body lift moves the body away 1" even when the suspension hits the bump stop. And it isn't noticeable enough that everyone sees the frame poking out more than usual, plus a person could get away without modifying the hitch and it would look alright still. Oh and you shouldn't get the heavier steering either that you do with the steering extension of the 3" kit.

I never had any problems with my 3" body lift on the ranger or the sport trac, they did exactly what I wanted. But I don't know why everyone is giving him a hard time about only wanting 1".
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2009
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no there shouldnt be any problems because the body is rubber mounted so everything is designed to have so room for play in it so you should be all good with just 1 inch. auto trannys should have anyproblems with bls on anything more than 1 inch youll need a transfer case linkage extension assuming its a 4x4 but if its not you should be good
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  #28  
Old 08-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
just crank your tbars then lol
well that will make it ride rougher and wear out suspension parts faster and like the other guy posted abovwe there are many bonuses
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  #29  
Old 08-16-2009
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Originally Posted by Jazz921 View Post
I had a one inch lift in mine. I still have the blocks and bolts if your interested in them. When I did mine, all I needed was the blocks, slightly longer bolts and modified the front bumper holes on the frame a bit and that was it,
check your inbox i left you a pm
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  #30  
Old 08-16-2009
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i posted in that thread sevral times to call 4 wheelparts and tell them you need 1 inch replacement pucks for a 1 inch body lift. ANY place that sells body lifts CAN ghet replacement pucks.
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  #31  
Old 08-16-2009
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while you have it apart you should replace the cab bushings with polyurethane ones they make a huge difference in how the truck rides imo
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  #32  
Old 08-16-2009
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ya you should really raplce the busings while your there $50 from summit plus like $20 for grade 8 bolts and washers at the hardwhare store and it makes a huge difference plus youll eventually have to replace them anyway so might as well do it at the same time
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  #33  
Old 08-16-2009
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I had the 1" at one point...back when I was a massive BL hater. I did it for the little bit of extra clearence I needed for the 32x11.50's.



Nothing needs addressed....too lazy to thumb through a 10 page thread? that's no good at all..... Bolt lengths needed are on page 1 or 2 posted by Gumby. All you'd need are 10 longer bolts, 12 1x3 blocks, and that's it.

If manual trans, you'll need to trim your shifter bezel if you've got a stock shifter in there. As I say in all bodylift threads, Hurst cures any and all stupid BS issues.
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  #34  
Old 08-17-2009
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
I had the 1" at one point...back when I was a massive BL hater. I did it for the little bit of extra clearence I needed for the 32x11.50's.



Nothing needs addressed....too lazy to thumb through a 10 page thread? that's no good at all..... Bolt lengths needed are on page 1 or 2 posted by Gumby. All you'd need are 10 longer bolts, 12 1x3 blocks, and that's it.

If manual trans, you'll need to trim your shifter bezel if you've got a stock shifter in there. As I say in all bodylift threads, Hurst cures any and all stupid BS issues.
dont you need some sort of washers also???
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  #35  
Old 08-17-2009
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Yes....7/16 or 1/2" washers are just fine. If you can find 'em, get some thick 1/2x1.50 washers for the bed. I stacked thin washers up on mine I think. I've been meaning to call PA to geta price on the washers they include in the kit for the bed...them things are like 1/4" thick perfect things.

Take a peek at the 3" how-to or the PA instructions online...you'll be doing the same thing that's needed on the front core support(cutting threads off the bushing or drilling the threads out).
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  #36  
Old 08-17-2009
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ok yeah i printed the instructions out one time when i wanted to lift it so ill take a look through them again i forgot you had to do that up front
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  #37  
Old 08-18-2009
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just a FYI...
most people , including me, that have done the 1 inch body lift eventually end up putting the 3 inch body lift on.
i did the 1 inch for the same reasons shane did. clearance. 1 inch works fine for 32s if thats what your going for. but like everything else you will wish w you went bigger the first time around instaed of doin it twice
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  #38  
Old 08-18-2009
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Still shouldn't hold ya back....I think 265's or even 32's look horrible on a 3" BL...shoot....I ran both when the truck was STOCK! Back when I was starting my lifts, the 3" BL was priced at about $250. This was long before the $130 Summit kit was avaliable. The $60 I was out for the 1" was worth it for what I wanted seeing as though I'm a former BL hater(used to solid axle trucks with leafs and coils...cheap and easy to lift. These 98+ rangers are a completely different story!).
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