1991 ford ranger 2.3 no spark
1991 ford ranger 2.3 no spark
My truck recently died on me while heading to work. I tried testing for compression but my timing belt was shredded, I replaced my timing belt, crankshaft position, ICM, coil packs, wires, and spark plugs. They are all gapped correctly and they are in the right order It has no spark at all, please help. It also has compression.
Last edited by Decimus26889; Aug 23, 2021 at 03:42 AM.
Welcome to the forum
Only the exhaust side coil pack works when starter motor is active, just FYI, so don't use intake/driver side coil pack as the test for spark
Should be a Red/green wire at each coil pack and the ICM, that's the 12volt power from ignition switch key on, test that you have 12volts at any with key on
Best way to test for spark is to spray fuel, ether, gasoline, carb cleaner, ect........, into the intake and then crank the engine over
Called 50./50 test, been around since the 1890's and the first gasoline engine
Spark testers are a waste of time, lol
Only the exhaust side coil pack works when starter motor is active, just FYI, so don't use intake/driver side coil pack as the test for spark
Should be a Red/green wire at each coil pack and the ICM, that's the 12volt power from ignition switch key on, test that you have 12volts at any with key on
Best way to test for spark is to spray fuel, ether, gasoline, carb cleaner, ect........, into the intake and then crank the engine over
Called 50./50 test, been around since the 1890's and the first gasoline engine
Spark testers are a waste of time, lol
Welcome to the forum
Only the exhaust side coil pack works when starter motor is active, just FYI, so don't use intake/driver side coil pack as the test for spark
Should be a Red/green wire at each coil pack and the ICM, that's the 12volt power from ignition switch key on, test that you have 12volts at any with key on
Best way to test for spark is to spray fuel, ether, gasoline, carb cleaner, ect........, into the intake and then crank the engine over
Called 50./50 test, been around since the 1890's and the first gasoline engine
Spark testers are a waste of time, lol
Only the exhaust side coil pack works when starter motor is active, just FYI, so don't use intake/driver side coil pack as the test for spark
Should be a Red/green wire at each coil pack and the ICM, that's the 12volt power from ignition switch key on, test that you have 12volts at any with key on
Best way to test for spark is to spray fuel, ether, gasoline, carb cleaner, ect........, into the intake and then crank the engine over
Called 50./50 test, been around since the 1890's and the first gasoline engine
Spark testers are a waste of time, lol
1989 to 1994 2.3l has a Hall effect crank sensor so it should pulse 12volt on and off, when cranking engine over
So no 12v on/off means no timing pulse so no spark
Bent Harmonic balancer wouldn't cause crank sensor issue but will be an issue when engine is running, a vibration
So no 12v on/off means no timing pulse so no spark
Bent Harmonic balancer wouldn't cause crank sensor issue but will be an issue when engine is running, a vibration
Key has to be on, for all tests of the spark system, unless you are testing OHMs, then key can be off
The crank sensor reads a disc/cup attached to crank, was that in place?
New sensor comes with an alignment tool so the sensor can be placed in the correct position, so disc can rotate inside the sensor but not touch the sensor
Tool looks like this: https://www.toolsource.com/images/pr...200Wx1200H.jpg
Sensor with Disc/cup and tool seen here: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iXHtbhPIl4U/maxresdefault.jpg
The disc has a missing section that pulses the Crank sensor when it passes by
Tool allows you to adjust the sensor so the cup part of the disc doesn't rub/hit the sensor as it spins
Tool is removed after alignment
The crank sensor reads a disc/cup attached to crank, was that in place?
New sensor comes with an alignment tool so the sensor can be placed in the correct position, so disc can rotate inside the sensor but not touch the sensor
Tool looks like this: https://www.toolsource.com/images/pr...200Wx1200H.jpg
Sensor with Disc/cup and tool seen here: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iXHtbhPIl4U/maxresdefault.jpg
The disc has a missing section that pulses the Crank sensor when it passes by
Tool allows you to adjust the sensor so the cup part of the disc doesn't rub/hit the sensor as it spins
Tool is removed after alignment
I did have the disc/cup, I also aligned it with the tool. It scrapes the sensor when it spins because it is bent a little. I don't know if that is the issue, but it is a little irritating because the sensor is brand new.
So I am an idiot, it starts and i still gotta test drive it, but the crankshaft position sensor says to take the connector off the wires to remove it and install it, i accidentally installed the wires upside down, grey in top left was in bottom right. I figured it out because i thought maybe i didn't push the wires in all the way and then i looked and went wait a minute and checked my manual and i feel like an idiot, thanks for all the help troubleshooting it though.
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