This has a 1999 4 cylinder. Sudden no start issue.
It wont crank in park or neutral.
PCM relay swapped with blower relay, no change.
Starter relay fuse is good and get 12.5 volts across those contacts.
No voltage to starter solenoid when key is turned to crank position.
Not sure where to go next.
Battery is in good condition and the connections are clean. Wires on starter and the solenoid are good.

 

Welcome to the forum

Check fuse 24 in the Cab Fuse Box, 7.5amp

1999 4 cylinder Ranger has the 2.5l SOHC Lima engine and NO PATS(passive anti-theft system)

When you turn the key to START the ignition switch sends 12v to fuse 24
From fuse 24 that 12v goes thru the DTR switch IF(big if) its in Park or Neutral
From DTR switch the 12v goes to Starter Relay in engine fuse box, and activates the relay, it should "click" closed
When Starter relay closes a different 12volts from 50 amp use is sent to starter motor and that activates, starter motor's Solenoid/relay

If you HEAR the starter relay in engine fuse box "click" but no starter motor activation it's most likely the starter motor has failed

Rangers usually used Micro-Relay for Starter Relay in engine fuse box, which has a base like this: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/...lay-wiring.jpg

30 and 87 are the Starter Motors activation contacts, if you use a wire and jumper these 2 slots together the starter motor should activate

85 and 86 are the relays activation coil, one will be a ground full time in a 1999 4cyl Ranger(no PATS), the other will be the 12volts coming from ignition switch when its turned to START

87A is not used in this application and may or may not be there

 

I'll have to wait till my friend, the owner gets back to listen for that relay click. My hearing isn't flawless so I can't turn the key and listen at the same time. Cool and tire noise from cars passing by every 30 seconds doesn't help either. Thanks for letting me know we can rule out PAT. I like eliminating things from the equation.
In the meantime I'll dig more into your comment. I really appreciate the quick response. 👍

 

I have a reprint of the manual for the truck and it shows relays four, six and nine the same style, and number six is the starter relay. These three relays are the larger ones not the one that you gave a link to.
I have swapped these three relays back and forth and it doesn't make any difference.
These three relays are the starter relay the blower relay and the PCM relay

 

Here's where We are, I swapped different relays back and forth and they all click so the one going to the starter is functioning and when I remove the relay between number 30 and 87 I do get 12.6 volts.
I've read numerous places that if the truck won't start in park but it will start a neutral that you need to replace the switch on the transmission.
What if it doesn't start in either position, can it still be the switch and is there a way to test it.

 

Here is the lay out for Mini-Relay also used by Ford: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/intro-a...ve-relays.html

30 and 87 are still the ones to jump to see if starter motor activates

85 and 86 activate relay, one a ground the other 12v with key turned to START

No 87A needed in this application

 

Have you ever smacked a starter with a hammer? Not hard, just tappy tap tap.
If not, try it. 😁
Not sure why I didn't try this first.
Can't thank you enough for the quick responses. I'm now learning a lot about this truck.
Looks like it's time for a new starter.

 

Yes, if starter motor's brushes or solenoid/relay is failing a hammer tap can get it to work again, but very unreliable after that

 

I didn't even consider trying that earlier because when the key was turned to the start position, the wire on the solenoid didn't register any voltage.... not even milliamps. I figured if the juice to the solenoid wasn't arriving, that the problem was elsewhere.
I used a hammer on my S10 a few years back after learning about it. I think it was over a month before I had time to replace it. I did however have a new starter with me just in case 😁
I was surprised reading responses from people who had used that method for a year. Sometimes it works for a day, others said the problem wouldn't appear again for months. When it did, then tappy tap tap, and good for a couple more. 😁
It's going to be replaced soon. He doesn't drive it daily and we live in a small town.
Yes, the hammer is definitely a temporary "repair", but that method is also an excellent testing method. If it works, you can eliminate wire chasing from the list.