2.3L '02 Ranger hard shifting and clutch went dry - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 12-28-2009
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2.3L '02 Ranger hard shifting and clutch went dry

So I've got a plain jane ranger with 93,000 miles on it. A few months ago at 89k the stick shift froze and I couldn't get it in gear... I let it sit for a few weeks and it started working fine but my mechanic looked at it and it just needed a new cable...

a few months later the clutch started flooring... I found out that the clutch was dry so I filled it with brake fluid. It started working fine after that. When I go into reverse though it makes a rattling noise at first. Not sure what that is. My mechanic just said that the clutch is going out and I decided to get rid of that thing asap because I already have a jeep cherokee and like it much more. I drove the ranger a few more months and put around 3k miles on it.

I made the mistake of letting a friend use my ranger for a few days and they claimed that the night before they gave it back it was shifting hard... The day they gave it to me the clutch was flooring but they got it to my place somehow. I checked the ranger and it didn't have any clutch fluid so I filled that up but it shifts fairly easily into 2nd and 4th but has a hard time shifting to the others... I drove it around the block and it seemed to be ok but I'm not sure what to do.

I'm itching to sell this truck so I don't want to put any money into it. I just want this truck out of my hair. Do you think the cable went bad again or do you think the clutch is completely shot now? is there any temporary fix that doesn't cost a lot so I could get it good enough to sell it?
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Old 12-28-2009
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sounds like the problem is the slave cylinder. since the clutch was still engaging yet its getting stuck and going "dry", the slave sounds like its probably going out. but at 89k is it still a stock clutch? i wouldnt be surprised if your clutch is indeed going out as well.
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Old 12-28-2009
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cable? what cable? if it's a hydrolic clutch (brake fluid) then there is no cable... so i'm not entirely sure what you are talking about...

if your clutch was too the floor, and you needed to add brake fluid to it... 99% chance there is an air bubble in the system, which would mean that your clutch wouldn't work till it was bled... so just adding fluid making it work fine again, several times, doesn't make sense...
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Old 12-28-2009
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yeah i hate to say it but it kinda sounds like your mechanic might be jacking you around.
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Old 12-28-2009
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He said that it needed a new hose or cable or something... it was only 20 bucks.

I don't really want to put a lot of money into the truck by putting a new clutch in it because I just want to sell it. I'm not doubting that the clutch is going out. I've been assuming that since September.

How do I bleed the clutch? Hopefully that makes a difference. I just want the thing functional so I can sell it.
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Old 12-28-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
cable? what cable? if it's a hydrolic clutch (brake fluid) then there is no cable... so i'm not entirely sure what you are talking about...

if your clutch was too the floor, and you needed to add brake fluid to it... 99% chance there is an air bubble in the system, which would mean that your clutch wouldn't work till it was bled... so just adding fluid making it work fine again, several times, doesn't make sense...
The second time I put brake fluid in it, which was today, it wasn't flooring but it still didn't feel like it should. It seems like it's engaging at the very end when it should be engaging before that. It probably does have an air bubble in it. how do you bleed a clutch?
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Old 12-28-2009
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Old 01-01-2010
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Thanks for the link. I never took out the slave/master cylinder out but I tapped the hose to get bubbles out. I then loosened the bleed valve but for some reason nothing was coming out. I had someone push the clutch in and this white creamy stuff shot out... it looked like toothpaste. I then tightened it, took my foot off the clutch, and repeated the process several times till clean brake fluid came out.

the clutch doesn't seem to engage until i've pushed it in about halfway... it shifts just fine now and the rattling noise is almost completely gone now so I'm not gonna complain. Somebody is gonna look into buying it tomorrow so hopefully I'll get rid of it.
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Old 01-02-2010
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keep bleeding it for a while longer, i would probably put an entire master cylinder reservoir, of fluid through it before i was satisfied there were no air bubbles, atleast... for how cheap brake fluid is, and how much of a headache it will save, it is worth it... just make sure that the master cylinder does not go dry, if it does, or you can see the bottom of the cylinder, or any parts in the bottom of the resivoir, without a good amount of fluid on it, the whole thing has to be started all over again... and if you look at it and wonder if it has gotten to low, and came back up, or is currently too low, start all over...
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Old 01-11-2010
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No need for that Weezl. I sold my ranger to someone. Iīm just glad itīs gone. Thanks again for everything guys. I got it to run well enough to sell and thatīs what matters most.
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