I searched the forum for something specific to diagnosing OBD1 DTC#224 to no-avail, so here-goes:

Despite replacement of the Exhaust-Side Ign. Coil-Pack for having a cracked-shell and "Carbon Tracking" ~ As-baked to a delicate-crunch for being placed so-immediatly above Cyl. 1 Exhaust manifold "Header" ~ this '92 Ranger 2.3 M/T 2 w.d. re-sets OBD-1 DTC #224 "Coil ckt. 1, 2, 3, or 4 fault"/"IDM ckt. failure" (depending on what-One reads-where) 30 seconds into KOER DTC retrieveal/testing... : ?

I DO have a Break-Out-Box ~ but I do NOT have the "DIS TEST-HARNESS" accessory discribed as necessary to continue testing per "Trouble-Tree" diagnostic-step following from where I'm at now... : (

SO ~ what's a gurl gotta do to get around that aspect of the "Trouble-Tree" requiring this "Adapter" to diagnose this particular *%$#@ "trouble-code"... : ?

The Truck seems to run just fine - especially since replacing that Exhaust-Side Coil-Pak - but I can't get It through Emmissions Testing with the Check Engine lamp on... : ?

From what I can glean of where things-go it appears fault-lies with either the Ignition Module or ECM ~ neither of-which are a cheap "Shot-gun Diagnosis"... : ?

If there's another way around NOT having the recommended Diagnostic Equipment ~ If You've "Been-there ~ Done-that" ~ please speak-up, thanx!

 

I had the Truck tested for it's annual State Emmissions Inspection today and it's a "PASS" with flying-numbers!

Being from California -- where some of the most intense Emmissions Inspection Proceedures in the WORLD are being implemented -- I was blown-away because in this State they don't perform any "Visual Inspection" other than making sure It's got a Catalyst, and the only functional-test is on the Gas Cap..."Check Engine" Lamps on pre OBD II vehicles are IGNORED... : ?

Kewl ~ I learned this Yesterday when a "Mobile Diagnositc Services" company-tech was Flashing a BCM for Me on another vehicle, and afterwards looked-up My "Ranger Problem" in His data-base...accordingly then:

"BAD" Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are the most-common cause of KOER-set OBD I DTC#224 "Coil Ckt. 1,2,3, or 4 Fault" and/or "IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Module) Ckt. Fault"... : ?

I'll bet the "Baked" Ignition Coil shorting-to-ground caused it, as I've noticed the vehicles Volt-Meter doesn't "dribble" 'n spike @ Idle like did upon arrival ~ the Truck runs rather smooth 'n strong now ~ AND it passes "SMOG INSPECTION"!

The Owner doesn't have the additional $200 bucks to replace the ICM right now, and I'm "Charitied-Out" for where we're at with it TODAY, so It's going-home "Fixed" -- at-least according to HER -- with the Check Engine lite remaining ablaze... : ?

Now I can't believe I'm actually going to put black-tape over a Check Engine lamp so the Owner-Driver won't be bothered by It... : ?

Where I hail-from that's BLASPHEMY!!!

 

yes, the OBD I code 224 for Ford is a Primary ignition coil fault.
"Failure in ignition coil primary circuit – Ignition Systems"

You can test coil packs with an OHM meter, while this can show a bad coil it doesn't tell you a coil pack is 100% good, heat being the tipping scale.

The ICM can also be tested but if engine is running it could just be a bad connection.
The 224 code is not a failure code(no matter what it says, lol) just a monitor code so an intermittent connection would set it.
So ICM connections, Coil connections, and PCM connections should be inspected.

 

So ~ is it just a "monitor" or is sumpthin' gonna happen 'cause that DTC remains "active"... : ?

As noted in the original post, I changed-out the Exhaust-Side Coil Pack for obvious defects...and it does run better! But It's still kinda gut-less ~ acts like it's over-geared really... : ?

Perhaps the Intake Coil is defective too ~ seems I've heard/read that It only works "Dual-Spark" @ Idle for emmissions reasons, so I imagine You could loose It and not really even notice... : ?

 

I think you are over analyzing the system.

I memory serves only 1 coil is used when starting.
So disconnect 1 coil and try to start, if it starts then reconnect the coil and disconnect the other one, try starting again.
That is just to test if the 1 coil start is correct.

If so then test both coils as the "starting" coil, that will tell you if both coils are OK.

If so equipped the CPS(cam position sensor) has some spark timing control at above idle RPMs, so it advances spark timing, or should as RPMs increase.

If you have access to a timing light you could test if spark is advancing.
lack of spark advance causes sluggish performance.