I have a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport 3.0 and the air conditioning works perfect and is ice cold but when you try and the heat it does not even get warm. I thought maybe the thermostat first but not sure. Any help is appreciated

 

Welcome to the forum

After engine is warmed up, leave engine running, and set heat to HOT
Open the hood and feel the two heater hose at the Firewall
Both should be HOT, if only one is hotter and the other much cooler then heater core is plugged up...........OR.........by-pass valve is not working
By-pass valve has 4 hoses, follow the heater core hoses to the by-pass, it has a vacuum operated valve, manually push open the valve and see if heater hoses at firewall get HOT
Some 2007 models may not have the 4 hose bypass, they will have 2 hose heat control valve, on one of the heater hoses, same test, open valve manually and see if heater hoses BOTH get HOT

If hoses get HOT then replace valve(whole fitting) it is not working

If valve seems to be working but only 1 heater hose at the firewall is hot and the other much cooler, then shut off engine and wait until it is cold.
Remove heater hoses at firewall and reverse them, this should actually be done every time you change coolant, 5 years, or every 2 years if you remember
This reverses flow thru the core which can prevent it from clogging up, pushes out larger debris which clogs passages.
Once core is clogged up this may not help, blocked passages don't have coolant flow so no anti-corrosion protection, so they start to corroded and that can't be cleared by reversing flow.


Blend Door
Common issue on Fords is the electric blend door.
This door covers the heater core to prevent air from the fan from flowing thru it.
This door is what the Temp Control on the dash operates, COLD has the door closed so no air pass thru the heater core, HOT opens the door so ALL air passes thru the heater core, and it can be set anywhere in between, to adjust Temp.
Turn AC OFF
Set Vent to Panel, NOT Defrost
Turn fan to MED
Set Temp to COLD, blend door closed
Feel the air coming out, should be close to outside air temp
Now turn Temp to HOT, blend door open
See if air gets warmer, even a little
If air gets warmer then Blend Door is probably working, but heater core is not getting hot, because of no coolant flow
If air temp doesn't change much the Blend Door is the problem, it is stuck closed

It is possible the Blend Door is not opening all the way, for further testing
Google: 2007 ford ranger blend door actuator


Engine thermostat
What does Dash temp gauge show?
2004 and up Rangers used digital dash so engine temp comes from computer and computer will set a code if coolant temp is too low
So Check engine light(CEL) should come on if engine temp is too low after 5 minute running time
Also just feel the upper Rad Hose after engine is warmed up, should be hot, 180-190degF, if so thermostat is working

 

Thanks for the info I will check it out. My dash is not digital so i honestly dont know the temperature will read. I will report back what i find out. Thanks again

 

2004 and up have "analog" needle gauges but use digital signals for operation, so mistake in terms, the gauges no longer use OHMs or voltage variables to display levels

Google: ford instrument cluster test mode

Some neat stuff you can do with 2004 and up, even see some OBD Codes

Temp gauge should show 1/3 to just under 1/2 after 5-10min warm up

 

Temp is always slightly under half once warmed up.

 

Thermostat is OK them, coolant is at 190degF or so, so plenty of heat for heater core

 

I have not had any days off to even check anything yet but now I have another issue. When I am driving at slower speeds 5mph or so, I get what sounds like rattling from underneath center of truck and a popping noise whenever I press the gas peddle down do accelerate I get a spring popping sound from rear.

I am getting real tired of this truck already. I did take a video while driving to try and get the sounds for someone to hear. Bu tit wont let me upload

Thanks

 

You don't upload videos, you upload them to YouTube and post a link.

 

Thanks

 

another clip

 

So i can hear it at any speeds and looking stuff up, a lot of web sites says its rear axle / differential / gear box.

Not sure how much it will cost to fix that issue,

thanks for any info

 

Jack up the rear wheels on a level surface and have a listen.
Start with the UV joints.
Have a buddy put in gear/drive and press on the gas a little.

Can't say I recognize the noise though.

 

Never thought of the joints, good idea

 

It's the least expensive place to start and the most likely to wear out.

 

Sorry for the late response. I figured the heat out by replacing the heater blend door actuator . I have no way to test the Uv joints so I ma gonna have to put in shop

Ill update later

Thanks again

 

What color is the vac. line coming off the control going to the coolant control valve? The line at the valve is gray. There is no gray at the control. My temp valve doesn't move on heat. No vac to it. I think it is the black one, but I am unsure.

 

Welcome to the forum

You should have started your own thread

There is no heat "valve" on Rangers, the vacuum controlled valve in the engine bay is only used when you select MAX AC on the cab control, it CUTS flow thru heater core when in use.

So select MAX AC and see if you have vacuum on that Grey line, thats the only time it should have vacuum
MAX AC also closes the Fresh air vent in the cab, so system recirculates the already cooled air in the cab versus trying to cool hotter outside air, just FYI

Heat/Temp control is done with a cable on 1994 and older Rangers, or with an electric motor on 1995 and up Rangers
Its done with the Blend Door that is inside the cab
The Blend door covers or uncovers the heater core in the cab, so allows blower fan air to flow THRU the core or AROUND the core to add heat to the air

Just google: Ranger Blend door

Could also be your heater core is clogged up if your heat is less than great, lol.


here is a diagram for the Cab vacuum lines: https://www.fordforums.com/cdn-cgi/i...ntid=517&stc=1

The grey line in the engine bay is noted on the far Right(coolant valve is not noted but there), it is connected to the White cab vacuum line, along with the Fresh air control

 

I'm sorry for not starting my own thread. I'm new, and I'm still trying to figure out how to start it. I checked, the valve closes on max a/c. I checked the heater lines. They get hot, about equal on both. The air in the cab is barely warm. It's about 55 out. When I was in the truck yesterday there was no heat at all. It was about 20 out. I will have to check the blend-door motor. How do I get at the back screw on the motor?? It is impossible to get at!

 

Yes, it is VERY VERY hard to change Blend Door motor

Look at the video's is all I can suggest, people manage to do it without pulling the whole dash out, which is what is recommended by Ford

As far as starting a thread
Go to any Sub-Forum, like General Ranger Discussions
Then just above where the threads start on the left you will see "+ New Thread"
Click on that to start a thread in that forum

Its always good to include the YEAR of your Ranger as there were many changes over the 1983 to 2011 model years
Also include engine size and transmission type if you think that might help with your question

 

Thank you Ron D. I started my own thread. Mine is a 2008, the link posted is for a 1997. They are different controls.
Typical Ford. Everything has to be difficult. I found a link for replacing the door.
Thanks again for your help and guidance
Chip W.

 

I tried to get the defroster louver retainer clips from Ford parts local. They say I can't get them local. I have to buy the whole louver.