2008 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L o2 sensors
Does anyone have a diagram of the locations and # of o2 sensors on the 2008 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L. I have only been able to locate 2 of them. The easy one near the cat and the one on the passenger side. Does the 2008 2.3L only have 2 sensors? I'm only getting 10mpg. I just bought it in May. The MAF sensor was dirty so I the proper cleaner to clean it. The truck has around 85k on it so I assume the o2 sensors have never been replaced.
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Only 2 sensors, an upstream and a downstream. Only engines with 2 banks (i.e a v-6 or v-8) will have more than two o2 sensors. There are other things I would check/do though before just replacing the sensors which could still be perfectly fine. When was its last tune up? Plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil change, pcv valve, etc. Also check tire pressure, all those little things can add up and make your mileage suffer big time. If you have any maf cleaner left clean the throttle body and iac valve (only use maf cleaner or throttle body cleaner labeled safe for use on coated throttle bodies). Im still battling some mileage issues on my 09 2.3 but every little thing I do maintenance wise starts bringing it back up. Sometimes its not just one simple thing. Always check, test, and diagnose things before replacing parts.
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+1 ^^^^
Just the Two on a 4cyl engine, after 1995, before that just one The one on passenger side close to the engine is the one responsible for MPG, the one after the Cat tests that the Cat is working to lower emissions 10MPG means a fuel leak, or a neighbor with a siphon hose, lol. Engine would not run if you were actually burning that much fuel. Older O2 sensor might drop you down 3-5MPG, maybe, but should set a code before that and it would read "low or no switching" on Bank1 sensor1 O2 Also look at what you are basing the MPG calculations on. Odometer should be calibrated, i.e. use GPS APP to compare trucks odometer or use Mile Markers on a highway. Larger diameter tires lower MPG but not really, lol. They throw off odometer, when odo reads 100 miles traveled you may have gone 110 miles because tires are larger, so MPG comes out lower when it hasn't really changed that much. But NOT 10MPG, in above example it would be 10% lower, so if it was 23MPG it would be 20.7MPG, 2.3mpg less, but not really less If your filler neck is rusted or rotted you could be sloshing fuel out when you drive, but that should also set an EVAP code If your fuel filter is leaking you should have a gasoline smell when near drivers side of vehicle |
I dunno Ron, Im still only getting about 14 mpg city in my duratec and it runs perfect with no CEL. 10mpg doesnt seem impossible to me. There's been a few other folks on here with horrible mileage problems with the 2.3. On mine Im starting to think I may have a bad evap leak at this point thats just not pulling a CEL.
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Something is very wrong then
2.3l duratec in a Ranger should be 21-23MPG COMBINED, and well above 25 on mostly highway Stop and go only could do as low as 17 or 18mpg assuming ALOT of idling Older thread here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...7-2-3l-120095/ I am thinking there has to be a common issue for the lower MPG you have, spark plug tips should be blackish if you are actually burning that much fuel. The 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio for gasoline engine wouldn't allow a 2.3Liter engine to use that much fuel unless it was just idling it away, i.e. 0MPG |
Like I said I do all city driving so I don't expect great mileage but as you said... 17-18 at least. My plugs are a nice tan color, just replaced 500 miles ago. That's why I started thinking evap. Like you said if it's actually burning all that fuel it would be rich as all holy hell. If I have a bad evap leak I could be losing some of that fuel to evaporation obviously without fouling the plugs. I don't fill up much, average tank lasts me over a month sometimes two so lots of time to evaporate, but that's only about 230 miles max on a 17 gallon tank which is awful. All highway I can still get about 350 per tank or 20mpg. (Still not great). I know it would be odd to have that big of an evap leak with no CEL, but I always thought of waiting for CEL to tell you there is a problem sorta is just like people who wait for the smoke alarm to go off to tell them when dinner is done cooking...
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Well with tan plugs fuel ain't being lost thru the engine
Odometer has been checked, compared with GPS or mile markers? Any engine runs with Choke for the first 5 minutes or so, so MPG would be very low then, which is why short trips burn up fuel faster than longer. MPG always goes down in winter, colder air needs more fuel overall, also in some areas winter gas has higher ethanol % which has lower MPG but prevents gas line freeze up because it bonds with water so lowers it's freeze point to -100deg or so But not seeing the 14mpg and especially the 10mpg, unless you both are not mentioning the 25ft travel trailer that's always in the rear view mirror for some reason, lol. Truck would smell like gasoline if it was evaporating that much fuel, 5gal less a month would be 12gal / 230miles and 19.1mpg 5 gallons is ALOT to lose in a month from inside a gas tank even if its not sealed |
A update to my truck. I cleaned the MAF sensor and that seems to have given me 1-2mpg. Whats should I check next? The air filter is clean. I don't know when the last oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs were done. I was thinking to look at the spark plugs to see how they look. Should put in new spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change no matter what so I know I have everything new? How would I know if I have a fuel leak. If i had a leak would the fuel gauge move when not being used? The reason I thought o2 sensor was because I have seen several threads where once they change the o2 even though it was not showing a code the mpg went back to normal.
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O2 sensors last about 100k miles, as they get close to this MPG can start going down, so if you were at 90k miles and noticed slightly lower MPG then change them, because they will need to be changed sooner than later in any case, may not be the reason but no harm done since they were at end of life anyway
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The truck has around 86,000 on it. |
Change the upstream O2 sensor, the one closer to the engine
Downstream O2s don't use up their chemicals as fast, so 200k for them, but up to you. |
I just took a look at the spark plugs. Just did 1,2,3. Number 1 is the worst one. The gaps are 60, 58, 58. Would these have caused some gas mileage problems? Tomorrow I will replace the spark plugs and then I will do the o2 sensor either this week or next week. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...c37a5a26e7.jpgSpark plug 1
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...7d4fc58f03.jpgSpark plug 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...bc693f7dbc.jpgSpark plug 2 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...11b108f33e.jpgSpark plug 2 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...5ca4d0b4b6.jpgSpark plug 3 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...93a0e3a564.jpgSpark plug 3 |
From the pictures, Yes, #1 is running rich, could be injector issue
Yes, it would effect MPG |
Those gaps are also huge and definitely have worn ground straps.
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New spark plugs are in. I went with the Motorcraft SP-439A. I put the new ones at .53 gap. Here are pics of the old sparks. I did put a flat head screw driver to the #1 injector. It had a steady click. The old ones were ITR5F13. Don't know when they were put in. Bought the car in May.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...31d3daba7a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...c570a0a965.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...359561bdcb.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...40e32a0a4a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...faf1f5aa66.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...f82350cffc.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...02373a8650.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...16ab35d884.jpg |
Just changed the o2 sensor. Now I just have to wait to see how the gas mileage is.
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