1995 Mazda B2300 4x4 Top Hat Problem
#1
1995 Mazda B2300 4x4 Top Hat Problem
Hey new guy here... I need a small truck for work and I really want to learn to drive standard. I'm looking at a 1995 Mazda b2300 for sale and could use some advice about the repairs.
Here is the ad text:
"Selling my pick up. It is black, paint is ok but fading on hood and roof, its a work truck. Has a cap, newer motor with about 90k on it, new timing belt, new coil pack, new plugs and wires, new air filter, change oil regularly, changed tranny and diff fluid too, truck has 150k minus the motor. I installed the motor myself. About 15k on KYB struts all around. Mechanically sound truck, just needed some more torque to haul material. The suspension feels tight and its great in the snow while in 4wd.
Some minor things wrong with it that will be fixed to be sold for $2800, or left as is and sold for $2000. Your choice if you are handy.
1) Needs a top hat, the locking mechanism on one of the front hubs is needed for the 4wd to work and the ABS ring is rubbing.
2) Power steering pressure line is leaking and needs to be replaced. I already have the part.
3) Tail gate handle does not work, must open from inside tailgate.
4) Needs new struts for the rear cap window."
I'm specifically interested in the first two he listed because they affect the truck's performance. I have experience with the 98-2000 PVH 4x4 but I don't have experience with this system. I also asked him if the ABS ring rubbing has affected the sensor, rotor, or wheel bearing. He said that he believes the ABS ring is rubbing the sensor, but hasn't affect the sensor because the ABS works. The truck is cheap but I don't want to get in over my head. Thanks guys
Here is the ad text:
"Selling my pick up. It is black, paint is ok but fading on hood and roof, its a work truck. Has a cap, newer motor with about 90k on it, new timing belt, new coil pack, new plugs and wires, new air filter, change oil regularly, changed tranny and diff fluid too, truck has 150k minus the motor. I installed the motor myself. About 15k on KYB struts all around. Mechanically sound truck, just needed some more torque to haul material. The suspension feels tight and its great in the snow while in 4wd.
Some minor things wrong with it that will be fixed to be sold for $2800, or left as is and sold for $2000. Your choice if you are handy.
1) Needs a top hat, the locking mechanism on one of the front hubs is needed for the 4wd to work and the ABS ring is rubbing.
2) Power steering pressure line is leaking and needs to be replaced. I already have the part.
3) Tail gate handle does not work, must open from inside tailgate.
4) Needs new struts for the rear cap window."
I'm specifically interested in the first two he listed because they affect the truck's performance. I have experience with the 98-2000 PVH 4x4 but I don't have experience with this system. I also asked him if the ABS ring rubbing has affected the sensor, rotor, or wheel bearing. He said that he believes the ABS ring is rubbing the sensor, but hasn't affect the sensor because the ABS works. The truck is cheap but I don't want to get in over my head. Thanks guys
#2
With this list the seller is providing, and the fact he replaced the engine, I would pay to have the truck checked out by a qualified mechanic. Be safe; you are being given a "list" of what needs repairs...how much more is there that you don't know about?
He said he's selling it because he needs more torque; why didn't he just put a larger engine in it when he replaced the original?
There's more to this than you know.
He said he's selling it because he needs more torque; why didn't he just put a larger engine in it when he replaced the original?
There's more to this than you know.
#3
1) I would call the ford dealership to price the part for the 4x4.. shouldn't be very hard to replace.
2) Again, shouldn't be hard to replace, just a matter of putting the new line in.. I would be cautious if he hadn't already put in some sort of stop-leak stuff.. that could gum up the pump.
3) Easy fix.. 5 mins with a new part
4) Easy fix.. 5 mins with a new part
I would offer him less than $2000, if I even decided to buy it. Who knows what kind of hack-job install he might have done when doing the motor and what kind of future problems you might run into. Up to you.. I would go look at it, test drive it.. see how it rides and drives.
2) Again, shouldn't be hard to replace, just a matter of putting the new line in.. I would be cautious if he hadn't already put in some sort of stop-leak stuff.. that could gum up the pump.
3) Easy fix.. 5 mins with a new part
4) Easy fix.. 5 mins with a new part
I would offer him less than $2000, if I even decided to buy it. Who knows what kind of hack-job install he might have done when doing the motor and what kind of future problems you might run into. Up to you.. I would go look at it, test drive it.. see how it rides and drives.
#4
#6
I paid 5 grand about 7 months ago fro my 2000 Ranger 4x4, but everything worked...at the time of purchase from a Ford dealerships used car lot.
I feel I'm experienced, but got burned with the A/C about one month later; the A/C compressor went; then the evap leaked; all within a month of each other. Since I did not have the equipment to evac the system, I had this all repaired to the tune of another $1000.000. So, I have a $6000.00 Ranger.
It's newer than new, I keep telling myself.
Get it all checked out by a qualified mechanic before you buy/make an offer.
I feel I'm experienced, but got burned with the A/C about one month later; the A/C compressor went; then the evap leaked; all within a month of each other. Since I did not have the equipment to evac the system, I had this all repaired to the tune of another $1000.000. So, I have a $6000.00 Ranger.
It's newer than new, I keep telling myself.
Get it all checked out by a qualified mechanic before you buy/make an offer.
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