The other day I was using my truck in 4x4LOW and I cant get it to disengage, moving the rotary switch on the dash makes no change and I do remember that there used to be an audible "click" when shifting from 2 to 4x4HIGH, AND 4X4LOW.
4x4LOW is currently indicated on my dash and do see 4x4 flash on then off when turning on the car. I changed the transfer case actuator motor, thinking that was the problem, but the problem persists with the new motor. I checked the fuse #28 inside the car on the passenger side and thats good. My only thought now is the 4x4CM.. can this thing just die like that or am I missing any other checks?
Thanks in advance!!

 

There is a shift motor fuse in the engine bay fuse box, need the year to say which one it is but should be 20 or 30amp

Also need the year of Ranger to say which 4x4 control system it has
1983-1994
1995-2000
2001-2006
2007-2011
These all used different 4x4 controllers, but used same shift motors

 

Dejevu for me on your 4x4 control problem..
In 2015, the 4x4ControlModul behind the passenger kick panel died; replaced that & all worked again.
In 2019, the 4x4ControlMotor on the rear of the TransferCase died; replaced that & all worked again.
In both cases, removed both parts to determine which was bad & manually put TC on 4WH with ViseGrips, so I could drive 'til parts arrived.
Slight year~year variations in each of these keep them from being fully interchangable & create confusion thanks to Ford designers.
Get the Ford model numbers off the old parts & replace with same 2 prefix numbers.
You may wish to replace both of these, as they seem to have simular life expectancy of ~15years, depending how much 2W~4W switching you do.
For my 2001 SportTrac,
the original Modul Ford#1L54-7h417-ac, replace with 1L54-7h417-ab\ac\ad\ae (installing wrong modul will blow fuse & lock steering)
the original Motor Ford#1L5z-7g360-ca, replace with CarDone#48-202.
Basic problem with these is DC brushes & contacts burn up after a given number of use cycles.
Replacing these is relatively easy if you be sure to get the correct parts.
Roughly $150~$200 for parts, depending on vendor; shop around.
While you're replacing the TC motor is a good time to drain+refill the TC.
Hope this helps.
D

 

I have a 2004 4.0 4x4

 

Thanks! that is helpful.. from my research ive found that the DORMAN 599-252 is one of the modules that would fit my ranger. just hoping that its just a fuse though..

 

@230RWHP TREMOR
In my 2001 SportTrac, Fuse#9 in the interior box on the left end of the dash, is the fuse to the 4x4 controls; check your manual.
When I tried using the wrong control module, it blew this fuse & locked the steering column; have 2 or 3 spare fuses handy.
Per AutoZone, the Dorman#599-252 modul fits the SportTrac and Ranger, but it's pricey; may be able to get a better price on the Ford#.
Here's the Dorman page with compatible Ford numbers.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-84293-599-252.aspx

If a recall, I paid $80 for my new modul in 2015.
D

 

2004 4x4 system fuses
fuse 10, 27 and 28 in the cab fuse box(4x4CM)
fuse 27 in engine bay fuse box(shift motor)

2004 things you should see

If the 4WD lights come on with the key on, then the Bulbs are OK, that's a bulb test, not a system test

If you change the switch position and you don't hear a "click" from behind the radio and you do not see flashing 4WD lights then your 4x4CM(control module) is most likely bad

4x4CM is behind the radio in 2004-2011 Rangers, it has the relay inside that you hear "click"

If you change switch position and 4WD lights on the dash flash that means shift motor isn't moving, so bad fuse or bad shift motor

The 2001-2006 4x4CMs were know issues, Ford re-designed them for 2007 but they are not interchangeable, and the newer design still had failure issues

Thread here on the 2004 Ranger 4x4 system: https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...module-140263/

 

Thanks for that. I'll do some checking and report back!!

 

well.. after checking all the relevant fuses, 2 used 4x4CMs, a new shift motor and shift switch still doesn't work. I guess I just need to buy a new 4x4Cm. Uggh

 

This POS wont work. For those that haven't seen the previous post, i'll break down what happened and what i've done.
I was hooking up my boat and pushing it into my back yard in to 4x4Low and afterwards I couldn't get it to disengage, my 1st thought was the the transfer case motor itself, since it was pretty rusty looking and 16yrs old.. changed that out and nothing. I did some research and learned that that 4x4cm could be the problem and has pretty common failure rate.. thought I'd go the cheap route and see if i could find a used one on ebay from a reputable seller, the 1st one I got didn't solve the problem and was going to return it to the seller, but he offered to send another that he said he would "test" before sending.. cool. right? Anyway, got the 2nd module, installed and still nothing.. Ugggh. Emailed the seller, thanked him for his coolness, and went ahead as I should have done in the beginning and ordered a new unit, ended up getting a remanufactured one from autozone.
In the meantime, I ordered a selector switch, just in case, and tried that before the CM arrived .. no good too. when the new 4x4cm arrived i was sure that this would be the trick... I've checked and replaced all the fuses associated with the 4x4cm and the shift motor, changed the shift motor and switch and finally a new 4x4cm and you guessed it.. NOTHING!! What the hell am I doing wrong here?? I'm stumped!

 

@230RWHP TREMOR
Best approach to this problem (& life in general) is to stay calm & logical.
Instead of throwing random money+parts at this & getting crazy upset, you'd best take a valium & get a good nights rest.
First, if you need this truck as a daily driver, remove the 4x4 Motor & use a pair of vicegrips to put the transfer case in 2WheelHigh,
then you can at least 2WheelDrive on dry pavement until you have a free day of quiet calm time off to work on the truck.
When you've calmed down & thought out a logical plan, then proceed. Otherwise you'll make things worse & not get your truck fixed.
Or you can take it to a stealership & prepare yourself with a large tube of KY jelly.
You've not even given full year\make\model info in this thread or in your profile; or made note of the old part numbers or provided pics; duh?
Good luck.
D

 

I needed the truck today, so, I just removed the motor and manually shifted it into 2 wheel drive.. I also came up with a great trick to protect the bare area from debris.. I took a ziplock bag, cut a 5"x5" square, then used a hot glue gun to apply melted glue around the circumference of where the motor sat, pressed on the plastic sheet.. perfect seal. This is the second time i've done this, once cool, it peals right off in one piece.
Anyway, moving on.. so currently, I have my new 4x4CM in place, fresh selector switch and all fuses in tact, as I mentioned before I'm currently in 2WD, the shift motor is removed and on my dash it still is illuminated 4X4LOW and whats really weird is the speedo stops at about 17mph.. any other thoughts on what might me going on here?
2004 Ford Ranger
4.0L
4x4

 

Yes, the computer calculates speedometer speed as if you were in 4low, thats for 2001 and up Rangers that only have the OSS(speed sensor) on transmission

So if you plug in the shift motor, NOT connected to transfer case, it still doesn't move/rotate when you changed the dash switch?
And 4WD lights do not flash when you do this?

The 4X4CM should flash the 4WD lights if switch is changed and shift motor doesn't move

Here is the wiring diagram, same for 3.0l or 4.0l

Looks more complicated than it is

Fuse 27 in ENGINE BAY Fuse box, powers the shift motor
The other fuses are in the Cab fuse box, passenger kick panel
You need to check fuses with an OHM Meter, "looks good" is great when girl watching, really bad when checking fuses, "new fuse" just means it has NEVER EVER BEEN TESTED, not "it must be OK"

You can test shift motor using the battery, the motor has a yellow and an orange wire, these are the REVERSIBLE 12volt and Ground wires
So yellow is 12v(+) and orange is ground(-) and motor will turn one way, says clockwise
Then reverse that, yellow is ground(-) and orange is 12v(+) and motor turns the other way, say counter clockwise
Same as a power window motor set up, up and down by reversing polarity to the motor

 

Thanks for the wiring diagram, that helped.
Had the motor plugged in and in such a way that I could see if the key rotates when moving the selector switch and nothing; however, I did what you mentioned and jumped the motor with the battery and the motor did rotate the key clockwise and counterclockwise.. I then checked fuse # 27 with the meter and it has continuity, yet there is no voltage passing through it with the car running and off, the the wiring diagram reads "hot at all times" for #27, so I guess this is a symptom of the real problem. Now what?

 

There wouldn't be power passing "thru" the fuse unless the 4x4cm had activated the shift motor and it was turning, but there should be 12volts on one of the fuse 27 slots, you can test for that

Then there's the no flashing 4WD lights when you turn the dash switch, if fuse 27(engine bay) was the issue the 4WD lights should flash because motor is not turning, and thats not happening

You may want to test the 4x4cm connectors for 12volts, pins 1 and 2 key off, and then test pin 9 and 16(2nd connector) key on, to make sure they all have power
Also test grounds using pins 1 or 2, grounds are pin 7 and pin 2(2nd connector)

 

I meant to say is that nether #27 in the cab or under the hood read 12volts as the wiring digram tells me should be there. No flashing 4x4 rr anything once the car starts and just shows 4x4Low. I do see 4x4 flash when starting, but goes away, so thee bulb is okay.

Ill pull it all apart again to see if i have power and ground for the CM..
Thanks for your help

 

Here are the power distribution diagrams I have for 2004 Ranger

BJB is the engine bay fuse box
SJB is the cab fuse box

 

thanks

 

So, I think I'm getting closer, 1st off I was wrong stating that there was no power at fuse 27 at the BJB, I was using a volt meter instead of my test light and turns out the meter wasn't working. I have power at BJB fuse 27 and there is also power at SJB fuse 27 at the with key on. Once I found my test light, everything what should be hot and hot with key on started to check out. I checked the the 2 connectors for the 4X4CM and I have 12v at pins 1 and 2 in the (1st connector) and and when checking the 2nd connector with key on, I only get 12v on pin 16, nothing at pin 9, its interesting to me because pin 9 on the diagram you sent me is for 4X4LOW on the dash which is on at all times when the shift motor is connected and looks like that pin 9 also goes to the PCM.
Checked the grounds at using pin 2(1st connector) with pin 7 and also pin 2 (second connector) and those grounds are good.
Im not sure what to check next.
Thanks in advance

 

It doesn't show it on the diagram but the 4WD lights, and MOST instrument cluster info lights, use a Ground activation, so the bulbs have 12v with key on, and the 4x4cm Grounds each bulb to activate it

So connect test light to a 12v source(pin 1 or 2), then test 9 and 6(4high) to see if they ground when in 4low and 4high

 

With the shift motor in place, I connected a verified 12v source pin 1, both to 9 and 6, neither lit high or low. I then reconnected the CM to and as well and started the truck, both 4x4 and 4x4low flashed and went out. Also, With the car running and after the 4x4 and 4x4low went out and the selector switch in 2WD, 4x4low did not come on. I moved it to 4x4 high and nothing happened then to 4x4low, then the light came on and stayed on. Whats the relationship of the brake pedal switch to the 4x4 system working ?

 

Trans must be in neutral, speed at 0MPH, and brake lights ON, and then 4x4cm will move shift motor to 4low if you select it

2wd and 4high have no restrictions, its called "shift on the fly", you can go back and forth at any speed(under 55MPH)

Yes the 4WD lights should flash with key on, that's a Bulb test, ALL instrument cluster info and warning light bulbs should do that with key on, its done IN the cluster, not related to the device it represents, in this case the 4x4cm

 

Oooff.. i forgot to have the trans in neutral. I'll recheck

 

No dice.. same issue w the trans in N and foot on brake.. anymore ideas?