95 ranger, 2.3, std, no crank no start issue - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

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Old 07-14-2014
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Newport
Posts: 6
95 ranger, 2.3, std, no crank no start issue

Hello Forum,
So last week the truck was running fine. Went to local pizza place, came back to the truck, stuck in the key, pushed in the clutch, no crank. All the dash lights, radio, door buzzers, dome lights working fine.

Long story short, I was perplexed. I tried jiggling gear shifter around, stepping harder and softer on the clutch pedal, still no crank. I got fed up and left the key on, E brake on, trans in neutral, popped hood, got out, and jumped from the positive battery terminal to the activation wire on the fender solenoid and boom she was running. Down the road I went.

Yesterday key start was still not working so I threw some parts at it. New ignition switch...didn't change a thing, new clutch interlock switch, didn't change a thing. I should mention battery tests good, starter good, starter relay(fender switch) perfect, I also cleaned all terminals and starter connections. This is a Texas truck with no rust anywhere. Also should say that there are no codes but the airbag light does flash randomly.

Now I was fed up, and I rigged an intermittent push button switch from the battery positive terminal to the starter relay activation terminal on the fender, with the push button neatly set into the panel below the steering column. Now it starts every time when I turn the key on and push the button. What the heck? Anyone have a suggestion? Is there a neutral safety interlock switch in this truck's starter circuit? Perhaps there is a switch on the transmission that's screwed up? What else causes no crank on this truck? Thoughts anyone?
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Old 07-16-2014
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Start by checking fuse 24 (15 amp) in the IP fuse block.

Fuse good.

Removing the Red/Lt Blue wire from the starter relay. Connect a test light or volt meter to this wire and chassis ground. Turn the ignition key to crank position.

No light or 12V showing reconnect.

Go to the clutch pedal position switch and disconnect. Probe the Red/Lt Blue or White/Pink wire and turn the ignition key to crank position.

No light or 12V showing, reconnect.

If the vehicle is equipped with anti-theft, locate the Starter Interrupt Relay. Pull relay. Probe connector 3 or 5 (Red/Lt Blue wire). Turn the ignition key to crank position.

If the test light lights/meter shows 12V the problem is more than likely with the RAP module. You can verify this by reinstalling the relay. Next pierce the Lt green/purple wire and jump to ground. Turn key to crank position. If engine cranks, its the RAP module. If not, the relay is bad.
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Old 07-17-2014
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Newport
Posts: 6
Hello, Thanks for the valuable information. This is a 1995 with no power doors or windows. The key that came with the truck is a plain metal key. Where is the RAP module located and what does it look like?
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Old 07-17-2014
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No, there is no transmission switch on a manual trans 4x2, just the clutch switch

12volt path:
Battery----fuse-----ignition switch-----clutch switch-----starter relay----ground

In '95 any anti-theft unit would be a dealer or owner add-on, and with no power windows or door locks I doubt a dealer would have added one to a base model vehicle.

I would guess you have a broken wire.
Since you ran a new wire to the starter relay already I would hook that wire to the clutch switch and see if key will crank engine
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Old 07-17-2014
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Newport
Posts: 6
I guess that's kind of my thoughts as well. I did look at both connectors closely when I replaced the clutch interlock and the ignition switch and there was no corrosion or damage visible. No monkeyed up wiring under the dash....maybe just age and miles. Thanks for the reply.
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