How do you pull the fan assembly off?

 

Could be a bad fan clutch

 

had to goto the auto parts store and thought i was going to have to pay 30 bucks for the ford fan remover but i got it free my buddy let me have it...gotta love having connections..anyways i got the fan off and the pully off the waterpump and the waterpump bearings feel nice and tight..i pulled on the shaft side to side and in and out and didnt notice and play so its not the bearings...what iam thinking is that its the pully itself making the squeaking noise

 

this is starting to **** me off...i grinded down both the idler pully and the waterpump pully and its back..starting to get seriously pissed off..

ran the truck with no fan at all and it still does it...also pulled off the compressor clutch and still squeaking

 

anyone? i got to get this stupid truck done by tomorrow..the chevy tires are now bald with wires showing because i did a hellatious burnout this weekend so for now i need to drive my dumb ranger

 

put the old belt back on as a last resort and the squeak went away...guess i will be getting my money back on the belt i bought..i think it was a combination of krud build up on the waterpump pully and the tensioner bearing causing the old belt to squeak and now since both of those are replaced the old belt is now happy...iam ****ing glad

 

Sometimes a "new" part, doesn't mean it'll "fix" the original "problem". You said you replaced the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, belt, and the A/C pulley. Only thing left now is the fan clutch (unless you have an e-fan), alternator pulley bearings, or power steering pulley bearings.

East way to check for blow bearings....take the handle off your shop broom....rest one end on the part and the other to your ear. Much safer then using a hose.....which I never heard of before. LOL

 

Yep, just like I thought it was... I can guarentee you, if you take a water sprayer or WD-40 or anything, and spray it on the flat part of the belt.. or take a bar of soap and apply it to the webbed side of the belt whiel its running.. if the squeek goes away whiel its there, that 100% means its yoru belt.. doesnt matter if its new or old.. I have a "brand new" belt down in the garage that squeaks when I put it on my truck.. i ahd to jsut suck it up and go buy a gatorback.. and it went away.



I soo am with you when it comes to squeelsk and sounds.. the squeek was pissing me the freak off.. and thers only so loud I feel like pumping my music before I know everyone down the street can hear my truck squeaking along..


Switch to a good gatorback.. it sounds like Im jsut adopting to advertise fo rone.. but it honest to god has stopped squeeks in 3 of my vehicles.. including my '88 ranger, S-10, and now my newer ranger as of several months ago.

 

Mine is doing the same thing (2002). Last year it started and I replaced the tensioner pulley and installed a gatorback belt. It started again over the last couple of weeks. I replaced the tensioner, idler, and installed a new gates belt. I tend to thing it's the water pump bearing since my coolant level also dropped about 1/2 gallon. It's interesting that something about the camshaft was mentioned because I was thinking it was coming from there as well. Anyway, I'll pull the belt again today and see if I can tell anything about the water pump bearing before I pull it. It chirps and occasionally grabs a bit (louder chirp).

 

I started it up this morning and it was chirping, although very quietly. I found the cam sensor at the rear of the engine near the firewall. I put my hand on it to see if I could feel it scraping, etc. I pulled it a little toward the passenger side of the car and the chirp returned, loud as hell and constant. At this point I could feel it. I don't know if the shaft is worn or if it's just the sensor scraping on the rotating assembly. Time to find a Cardone replacement...

 

how do you tell besides the chirping if the cam syncro is going out?? i am curious also i thinki mine is gunna go soon

 

It's really just a distributor body with a sensor on top instead of points and rotor. Afaik the chirp is the easiest way to tell. That or total failure From what I have read, either Motorcraft or Cardone are the ones to get, and it's good insurance to go ahead and do it. For me, the chirp just screams 'imminent failure'. It seems to be a design flaw causing insufficient oiling to the part. Ironic, since it drives the oil pump.

 

And, btw, that fixed it. The bearing on the old one was very tight and squeaked as I turned it by hand.