My abs and traction control lights is on and could use some help. The code reader said it was a right rear brake sensor fault. My Ranger is a 2010 xlt 4 wheel drive with 114,000 miles. So I put a new sensor in but lights still on. The truck is new to me and when I first got it there were no dash codes. But here are all the things I have done that might be needed info. New front and rear rotors, calipers, brake pades. New trans mount, took the dash out for a new heater core and while there replaced the column tube. All fuses good. The traction control button does nothing. I did try to unhook the battery te reset the computer but that did not work. Most auto store code readers will no clear brake codes. Any ideas?

 

What was the exact code you got, it would be a "C" code for Chassis
C0xx codes are OBD2 generic
C1xx or C2xx are OBD2 Ford specific

Code can be a "circuit" code which means with key on the ABS module doesn't have a good connection thru the 2 wires on a wheel sensor, so could be a bad wire/connector or bad sensor
But there are other codes that mean a sensor is not reading the same pulses as the others so could be mud in the tone ring or ??

ABS system resets itself with each key off and on, and any codes will self-clear after a few drive cycles if the "problem" is no longer "seen", and no ABS light during this time
ABS light should come on with key on, that's a Bulb Test, all dash bulbs should come on, and most then go off, if ABS light comes back on before driving then its most likely a circuit issue
If ABS light doesn't come back on until vehicle is moving then mechanical issue

Traction control can't work if ABS is offline, so if the ABS light comes on so should traction control as its offline as well
But traction control light can come on on its own without ABS light coming on and it won't cause ABS light to come on

If there wasn't an ABS light until you did the work on the brakes then I would start there
ABS module on 4 wheel ABS is in the engine bay where the 5 brake lines are, has a larger wire connector, remove it and check for corrosion then reinstall connector and see if ABS light stays off
Unplugging and plugging back in connectors cleans the contracts if they were dirty, this fixes a lot of issues/codes, lol

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply. The code I received was C1165-EO "right wheel sensor input circuit failure" I don't have my own reader so have to rely on the parts house. I will do the checks you indicate but you already gave me a clue. When I removed the dash I disconnected both wire harness plugs on the firewall, and when I went to put them back I put some dielectric grease on them. Its possible I jarred something.
I also have to say without forums and people like you many cars would be in the trash. I have a 88 Mercedes SEC in pristine shape but without a forum, I would have simply given up, and I am pretty good. Those Germans are simply amanzing and hiding things which after you see how they did it are in awe.

Again, you rock

 

Heads up on di-electric grease
It is used instead of other sealants because it does not conduct electricity so prevents shorts in adjacent wiring.............so you want to keep it off of all contacts that you want to conduct electricity
So good to seal the edges of connectors but not the inside of connectors where the metal pins and slots need to connect and pass power or signals

 

Hi Ron & beg your pardon, for high jacking this thread for an instant.
I sincerely hope this doesn't apply to WD40 spays and the like, as I just applied this to my passenger seat plug in my quest to get rid of an Airbag code 228. I also understand from your thorough answer that most fault codes will reset (if sorted) after a few drives or ignition on/off cycles?

 

Yes, most codes will reset on their own, but not all
SRS(airbag) codes will not reset on their own if airbag was deployed, this is because the SRS Module stores "crash data" that may be required, but the SRS modules can be removed and reset
If it was not a crash, so just a wiring issue then it should reset on its own but can't say for sure

 

Ok, could use a little more input. Disconnected the wiring harness at the ABS module and cleaned it with solvent and air dried it. Same with the plugs on the fire wall, and the one to the computer on the floor under that tray. Also went through the harness from the back to the front. Remember I did put a new sensor on already so had to clean the connection when I put the new sensor in. I am leaning towards me jostling something when I took the dash out to redo the heater core. I did check all the fuses, both on the fire wall and at the passenger kick panel. Is there a connection I could have jostled under the days. PS I also dropped the steering column to replace the shifter tube. Thanks

 

For jimskau

You never said what Ranger you have

2014 Ranger diesel?

We could never get these T6 Rangers here
So I have no idea of the wiring on these, our Rangers were 1983 thru 2011 and smaller, totally different trucks, just shared "Ranger" name

Try Australian Ranger forums
They got your models there and forums are in English

 

For Stutz

I don't have a wiring book for 2010 Ranger so can't say if any ABS wiring, beside 12v power, would be in the cab

Every Year and for Every Model Ford makes a Shop Manual set to send out to dealers, ONE of the books is call "Wiring Diagrams", after 1998, was EVTM before
You can often buy these separately

Seen here:
Must be for 2010 Ranger, and published by Ford
It will have all the wiring, locations and colors, for all Ranger sub-models and all options
Dealer shop techs need exact details to troubleshoot New Vehicles issues, New in 2010, lol

And the Wiring Diagram books are usually FREE to use since you can resell it when you no longer needed it, there is always a demand for these

 

Ok, received the Ford wiring diagram manual, and still could use some direction. I am going to attach the two pages of the manual that I think are the ones needed. My truck is a 2010 XLT 4 wheel drive. Here is background information. No codes after putting on new calipers, rotors, pads. Since I thought I had a heater core leak, had to take out the dash. At that time I also decided to replace the shifter column tube, and the shifter itself. Both Ford products. Taking out the dash I took out the air bag, radio, and unhooked the three main connectors to the firewall (get at the nut behind the valve cover) I also took out the radio module. I did break the cruise control switch on the break pedal, which I put a new Ford one in. Upon turning on the key all dash lights come on, except the traction control one stays on along with the ABS lights. Today I took out the air bag again to check connections, the connections on the ABS module, which I never messed with, and the three on the firewall. I also removed the dash panel under the steering column to check connections. Forgot, the code is a ABS sensor C1165 Rear Brake Sensor Fault. I put a new sensor in which did not correct the issue. So my hairbrained question is by chance when I had the steering shaft disconnected, and taking the shifter tube out, I suppose (not real likely) That the steering wheel rotated some that when I attached it back it might not have been exactly in the same position, and the clock could be off. From the diagram it looks like steering angle sensor is connected to the ABS module. Am I looking at this all wrong! Any help appreciated, I don't think a shop would be able to sort this out easily with so many things being done

 

From the diagrams I do see that Connector C144 is used for rear wheel speed sensors and the steering angle sensor, I have no idea where that connector is but it should be in the book

 

On my 2011, C144 is behind dash drivers side white 24 pin connector.

 

Well, bingo. After reading more on the i web, I found that if the steering wheel sensor is not correct it will throw an abs cose and traction control code. Now to decide whether to simply disconnect the steering joint and try turning the wheel one full revolution each way and see what happens or simply take it to someone who has that capability with a scan tool. Beware of removing a dash since its easy to have the wheel turn. I will keep all posted to make sure this corrects things

 

If I disconnect the steering slip joint, and turn the wheel one full turn one way or the other, then at each revolution turn the key on, if I get it in the correct spot, will the lights go back to normal immediately, or do you have to drive it a cycle? I was going to try one full turn each way.

 

I don't think our Rangers have a Steering Angle Sensor.

 

2010 and 2011 with traction control did have steering angle sensors

 

Here is an update, but still have the issue. First, I purchased a better code reader, and it shows right rear wheel sensor fault, C166 I think. In the live mode all the other sensors show a reading but not the right rear wheel. The sensor is new. I also checked the steering angle sensor and it shows 0 and in the live mode it does show movement plus or negative depending on which way you turn it. Just for sh and giggles I removed the steering connection at the joint and turned the wheel a turn one way, then the other one full turn. I then checked to see of the code went out. Nope. I then did one more turn, nope. Just to make sure I ordered another wheel sensor and will of course use a multimeter to check each one of the sensors. I guess my question is, even though the steering angle shows zero is this one of the things only a ford scan can correct? I have tried resetting the ABS code but it won't do that since the fault is still there. Basically looking for something I might have missed

 

Can't find ABS C166 code?
Test left wheel sensor and then right wheel sensor they should show the same OHMs

Steering wheel/angle sensor is calibrated using OBD2 interface, I think Forscan can do that but not sure, but is not a Dealer only calibration
You don't mention a code for that but it could just need to be re-calibrated for 0 angle