All this talk of upgrading alternators - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 09-24-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
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large case 3gs have 3 holes on the front of the case, unless there is some hybrid out there...
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  #27  
Old 09-24-2007
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the 130A alternator i have has only 2 holes in the front of it.....O'Reilly Auto Parts said the part number that was on the alternator was for a '97 Explorer.....
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  #28  
Old 09-24-2007
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Hrm...

that is what a large case should look like.

this is what a 3g small case should look like. mount holes and positions dont matter, just the case itself.
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  #29  
Old 09-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
this is what mine looks like....
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  #30  
Old 10-03-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i know....i remember seeing it, but cant find it in a search...


i did....and i saw better voltage because of it.....i upgraded to 4 gauge wire for + and -...
What gauge is in my truck now? 97 4.0.

What wires should actually be upgraded?
I know the following should:

Negative battery cable
Positive battery cable
Cable from alternator to starter relay
Relay to Battery

Anything else?

Is there a kit out there to buy instead of buying all of it seperatly? COST is a factor since I just dropped $180 on the new alternator.
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  #31  
Old 10-03-2007
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probaly 8 at the biggest, 6.
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  #32  
Old 10-04-2007
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Ok I'll be going with the 4 gauge and running the following:

Alternator to starter relay
I thought it ran directly to the battery but it doesn't, or does it?

Relay to Battery
Battery to chassis ground
Battery to starter ground

Anyone recommend new wire for anywhere else?
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  #33  
Old 10-04-2007
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if i were you, i would run directly to the battery from the alternator. I did both on mine and saw better voltage results with it directly on the battery. but then i guess if you upgrade the wire from the starter relay to the battery also, then it wouldn't matter.
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  #34  
Old 10-04-2007
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I'm going to take a look tonight and see what I actually have under the hood, but I like your way. I really don't need more power to the starter or starter relay, just to the battery.

So here's what I'll have:
Alt to battery with a inline fuse rated for at least 175amps
Batt to chassis ground
Engine block to chassis ground forgot that one on my last post

Am I forgetting anything that should be done?
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  #35  
Old 10-04-2007
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what size is your alternator? if it is a 175A alternator, i would go with a 200A fuse/breaker. I have a 150A fuse on my 120A alternator. The alternator can produce more amps than it says.....

everything else sounds good....
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  #36  
Old 10-04-2007
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It's a 130amp

Shouldn't I upgrade the wire to the distribution box also or is that just overkill for what I'm looking to do.
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  #37  
Old 10-04-2007
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then i would go with a 150A fuse.....

that is what mine is....duh...the Explorers have 130A alternators...
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  #38  
Old 10-04-2007
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Ok 150amp it is and should I upgrade the power to the distribution box or is that just overkill for what I'm doing.
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  #39  
Old 10-04-2007
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no the wire to the distribution block is sized for what is in there.....you wont ever draw enough through the distribution block to have to upgrade that wire....
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  #40  
Old 10-04-2007
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Cool! Thanks Maurice!

I hope that tranny cooler is working out for you ok?
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  #41  
Old 10-04-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtfoxman
Cool! Thanks Maurice!

I hope that tranny cooler is working out for you ok?
dunno! i sold it to Beard for what i bought it from you for....i decided that i didn't have room for it with my B&M cooler...
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  #42  
Old 10-05-2007
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Sorry to keep this thread going but I ran into a few problems checking on the "Big 3" last night.

1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.

2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.

3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?

Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?

I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!

Last edited by jtfoxman; 10-05-2007 at 12:01 PM.
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  #43  
Old 10-05-2007
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No one? I guess I'll go ahead and do it and see what happens. Can't screw that much stuff up. Mistakes are all part of the learning process.
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  #44  
Old 10-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtfoxman
Sorry to keep this thread going but I ran into a few problems checking on the "Big 3" last night.

1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.

2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.

3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?

Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?

I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!
you don't want to ground to your alternator......

if there is a grounding strap there already on the block, follow it with the 4 gauge wire...

starting power will not be affected....i have had mine like that for almost a year without a starting problem yet....your starter draws off the battery anywas....
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  #45  
Old 10-05-2007
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OK. So I should stick with the 4g then and not ground the alternator to the firewall.

The only ground strap I have is on the intake, I think they hooked it up wrong spot when they replaced my motor and I can't seem to find a more suitable location on the block for a new ground. The strap seems to be a little longer than it should be since it connects right there onto the intake.
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  #46  
Old 10-05-2007
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just find a bolt that goes to the block that you can take out.....better yet, take out one of the upper bell housing bolts and put it there......just leave enough wire for the engine to move....
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  #47  
Old 10-05-2007
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You always come through for me. Thanks a lot.
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  #48  
Old 10-05-2007
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notta problem....that is what we are all here for...
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  #49  
Old 10-05-2007
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i feel wierd for asking but what does UDP mean? Also i have a 2.3 and a 95A stock wiring. and would like to upgrade my alt. any ideas? or websites to look at?
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  #50  
Old 10-05-2007
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UDP = Under Drive Pulley (smaller crank pulley)

get you an alternator from either www.jusnesmodified.com or www.summitracing.com ....they are about the best places...
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