Another Thread on over-acting ABS
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From: COLUMBUS
Another Thread on over-acting ABS
Good day all,
I have an 02 Ranger with a 4.0, 4x4, auto, 140k, 100% factory stock, zero mods. The ABS is over-acting, pulsing and dropping pressure like I'm sliding on ice, but on dry flat roads. I have read several threads on this, so I'm not just posting to be lazy. Problem is, I see issues on this forum with this under 10-MPH, mine does it at nearly any speed. I've read about this happening with bigger tires, or when turning. Mine does it whether or not I'm turning, and I have factory size tires. The big recommendation I keep seeing is to change the wheel sensors, which I have done, all 3 of them. I replaced the pumpkin sensor in the rear, both front sensors, both backing plates (they were rotten) and inspected the tone rings on the wheel bearings (I can see mine through the sensor hole with the sensor removed). I shimmed them upward slowly until there was no contact with the tone rings. I will note that changing these sensors *did* help, but not totally remove the issue. Before, it was a very pronounced pulse and lack of brake, then immediately hard as a rock pedal and locking up tires. Now it's a dull pulse, and some nose-diving on hard braking. The only culprit I can maybe think might affect it, is *very* slight slop in the front passenger wheel bearing. Yes, I will replace that when the part gets in, but I don't think that will fix the issue with the ABS, it just doesn't seem like enough.
Thoughts?
I have an 02 Ranger with a 4.0, 4x4, auto, 140k, 100% factory stock, zero mods. The ABS is over-acting, pulsing and dropping pressure like I'm sliding on ice, but on dry flat roads. I have read several threads on this, so I'm not just posting to be lazy. Problem is, I see issues on this forum with this under 10-MPH, mine does it at nearly any speed. I've read about this happening with bigger tires, or when turning. Mine does it whether or not I'm turning, and I have factory size tires. The big recommendation I keep seeing is to change the wheel sensors, which I have done, all 3 of them. I replaced the pumpkin sensor in the rear, both front sensors, both backing plates (they were rotten) and inspected the tone rings on the wheel bearings (I can see mine through the sensor hole with the sensor removed). I shimmed them upward slowly until there was no contact with the tone rings. I will note that changing these sensors *did* help, but not totally remove the issue. Before, it was a very pronounced pulse and lack of brake, then immediately hard as a rock pedal and locking up tires. Now it's a dull pulse, and some nose-diving on hard braking. The only culprit I can maybe think might affect it, is *very* slight slop in the front passenger wheel bearing. Yes, I will replace that when the part gets in, but I don't think that will fix the issue with the ABS, it just doesn't seem like enough.
Thoughts?
Welcome to the forum
4WABS issue WILL set codes, "C" codes, so you need an OBD2 code reader that can see P, B, C and U codes
And do a "sanity" test for the ABS module, i.e. unplug the rear axle sensor or one of the front sensors and drive
Will for sure get an ABS code, if not then ABS module is bad, insane, lol
Example of "C" codes here: https://www.troublecodes.net/ccodes/
They can be very specific
"C" codes may or may not turn on the CEL(check engine light)
But will for sure turn on ABS light, i.e. sanity test
4WABS issue WILL set codes, "C" codes, so you need an OBD2 code reader that can see P, B, C and U codes
And do a "sanity" test for the ABS module, i.e. unplug the rear axle sensor or one of the front sensors and drive
Will for sure get an ABS code, if not then ABS module is bad, insane, lol
Example of "C" codes here: https://www.troublecodes.net/ccodes/
They can be very specific
"C" codes may or may not turn on the CEL(check engine light)
But will for sure turn on ABS light, i.e. sanity test
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