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  #1  
Old 10-13-2013
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auto transmission question

Took 1999 xlt to AAMCO when I first got it for an inspection because of 'thunk' sound on starting and stopping. Tech showed me pan with some metal shavings and metallic looking sludge on magnet strip at side of pan, said it needed rebuild and not to waste money on servicing it. I was bummed, and figuerd I would sell it and move on...I called a mechanic at Big O who has serviced my wife's car and asked if i should flush tranny given what aamco tech said. He saig it could cause faster failure if I put in new fluid. WHAT IS THE REAL STORY? Fluid currently has a burnt smell...I like the truck so much I decided to keep it. Shifts smooth, and seems to drive great...help

Last edited by Umpqua Dave; 10-13-2013 at 09:48 PM. Reason: bad spelling
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Old 10-13-2013
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JPZ JPZ is offline
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Never ever flush it unless you want it to stop working. Drain and refill, change filter, sleep well at night. Show me anywhere in the owners manual where it calls for flush and I will say differently than what I just told you. My brother is a mechanic with his own shop, I have seen what damage flushing does, I don't recommend it. And find an honest mechanic as well.
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  #3  
Old 10-14-2013
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Thnx...

dave
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Old 10-14-2013
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Automatics depend on a little bit of grit in the fluid to grip the bands/clutches properly. I would do a drain, filter and fill. That will replace about 1/3rd of your fluid. Then start shopping for a reman trans, around here I see them on sale for $650 sometimes.
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Old 10-14-2013
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A clunk/thud on a Ranger is common. There is a TSB for the driveline for the same concerns. Most Ranger's all have a hesitation into Reverse as well.

I'd do a drain and fill using Motorcraft Mercon V and a Motorcraft Trans Filter.

Now the magnet will always look like that in a pan. It's doing it's job. What you DON'T want to see is metal flakes on the magnet that are silver in color. I would cut open trans filters on new cars when i worked at a Ford dealer and it's amazing how much debris the filters will trap on a car with only 30k miles.

AMMCO is a horrible Transmission shop IMO. They will ALWAYS recommend a trans rebuild. I've fixed many AMMCO screw-ups.

Quote:
SB 04-23-7

11/29/04

DRIVESHAFT - THUMP/CLUNK ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM STOP OR WHEN BRAKING
AND COMING TO A STOP - RANGER 4X4 SUPER
CAB

FORD:
1998-2005 Ranger

This article supersedes TSB 03-26-2 to update the vehicle model years and service procedure.

ISSUE
Some Ranger 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency thump type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration, creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines.

ACTION
A new type of grease is available which will greatly reduce the sticking/binding in the slip yoke during acceleration and deceleration. To service, apply the new grease to the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

NOTE OTHER DRIVELINE NOISE CONDITIONS WILL NOT BE CORRECTED WITH THIS PROCEDURE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE RANGER WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR OF ENGAGEMENT CLUNK, TIP-IN/OUT CLUNK OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT CLUNK CONDITIONS.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL

1. Index (mark) the rear driveshaft to the rear pinion flange and the front of the driveshaft to the transfer case flange.

2. Remove the rear driveshaft.


SLIP YOKE DISASSEMBLY

CAUTION DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, CLAMP THE DRIVESHAFT IN THE JAWS OF A VISE OR SIMILAR HOLDING FIXTURE. DENTING OR A FRACTURE CAN RESULT, CAUSING DRIVESHAFT FAILURE DURING VEHICLE OPERATION.

1. Place the driveshaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube.








2. Mark the driveshaft and slip yoke on both sides of the boot. Mark the location of the clamp crimps so the new clamps can be installed in the same location (Figure 1).

3. Cut and discard the slip yoke boot clamps.

4. Remove the slip yoke from the driveshaft.

5. Thoroughly clean the boot making sure to remove all of the old grease and dirt. Inspect the boot for damage.

6. Inspect the lubricant on the driveshaft splines and in the driveshaft slip yoke for contamination. If contaminated, inspect the driveshaft splines and slip yoke for wear.

7. Using a stiff NON-METALLIC brush and a suitable solvent, thoroughly clean all the old grease out of the splines on the slip yoke and the driveshaft.

8. Use compressed air to completely dry both spline areas.


ASSEMBLY

1. Install the slip yoke boot on the driveshaft (small opening end first).

2. Install and crimp the small slip yoke boot clamp using a keystone clamp installer (SST211-002).

3. Pull the boot toward the driveshaft to expose the splines. Completely coat all slip yoke and driveshaft spline surfaces with the grease supplied in the kit.

4. Position the large slip yoke boot clamp on the boot (DO NOT CRIMP).

5. Align the index marks and install the slip yoke on the driveshaft.

6. Set boot free length as follows:

a. Remove any excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces.

b. Position the slip yoke boot in the slip yoke boot groove.









c. Set the boot length to 3" (76 mm) by sliding the slip yoke. Measure between the inner side of the clamps as shown in (Figure 2).

d. Bleed the air from the slip yoke boot using a screwdriver as shown in (Figure 2).

7. Crimp the large slip yoke boot clamp using SST 211-002.


INSTALL DRIVESHAFT

1. Align the driveshaft front index mark with the mark on the transfer case flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 82 lb-ft (111 N.m).

2. Align driveshaft rear flange index mark with the mark on the pinion flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 83 lb-ft (112 N.m).








Parts Block

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

042307A Apply New Grease To The 0.7 Hr.
Rear Driveshaft Slip Yoke
Splines

DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
4K277 41
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  #6  
Old 10-14-2013
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Thanks..sounds like solid advice
dave
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2013
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Thank tou for the good advice, and thanks for the slip yoke reference. Since it is a spline the movement must be along the axis of the spline changing rotational force to longitudinal movement. Is that correct?
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  #8  
Old 10-15-2013
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Basically. Its the splines meshing and binding giving you that clunk/thud.
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