Is this a bad idea? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 03-21-2010
--weezl--'s Avatar
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Is this a bad idea?

so I went to the dealership, long story, they sam my drums and rotors are at spec, and shoes and pads have 2mm left on them, I call bull****, but I'm going to check anyways I make sure... If I have to replace, I was pricing it out, mid grade ceramic pads are about 100$ for my truck, and comparable shoes are around 90, so I could replace that now, and then if the rotors and drums are shot (which I really doubt) I can replace them after, rotors are 100 each, and drums are 50 each, which brings me to about 500 total... Is ut bad to put new pads on now, then new rotors on in a few months, with the pads that will gave been on there for a while?

What about slotted cross drilled? Worth it? How about for off road (wet and potentially muddy use) will I have issues with small pebbles or gravel getting stuck in the slots or drill holes?
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Old 03-21-2010
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Don't put new pads or shoes on without at least machining the rotors and drums. You will wear out the new pads really fast
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Old 03-21-2010
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X2 on that.

Also, if you can do the work yourself, DO IT.

I don't know if you have a CAPS (Canadian Auto Parts Store) in AB, but that's where I get all my auto parts from......there and UAP/NAPA. Never get stuff from the dealership, you're looking to overpay up the @ss!!
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Old 03-21-2010
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I would never put quality pads/shoes on the old surface.
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Old 03-21-2010
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If the old surface is in good shape still, why resurface it? waste of money. I can buy new rotors and drums cheaper than getting a machine shop to turn them.
If there's nothing wrong with yours use them. Ceramic ? Why?
Having said that, if your gonna replace the rotors and drums, replace the pads at the same time.
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Old 03-21-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolldogg View Post
X2 on that.

Also, if you can do the work yourself, DO IT.

I don't know if you have a CAPS (Canadian Auto Parts Store) in AB, but that's where I get all my auto parts from......there and UAP/NAPA. Never get stuff from the dealership, you're looking to overpay up the @ss!!
We have no caps that I know of, we do have napa, I went to a part source for those prices... I will do the work myself, I wish I had a laithe, I would turn the rotors myself, but I don't... I don't think there are anything wrong with my rotors, they are smooth when stopping, I don really see the difference if they are in good condition...

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Originally Posted by Y2KTJ View Post
If the old surface is in good shape still, why resurface it? waste of money. I can buy new rotors and drums cheaper than getting a machine shop to turn them.
If there's nothing wrong with yours use them. Ceramic ? Why?
Having said that, if your gonna replace the rotors and drums, replace the pads at the same time.
Ceramic is what the guy at the parts store recommended to me based on how I drive, I do a lot of hiway... I was thinking putting the pads on now, then the new rotors in like a month or 2, there would be minimal wear on my pads in that time I would think... I wouldn't put worn out pads back on though...
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Old 03-21-2010
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Why do new rotors if yours are fine like you think they are?
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Old 03-21-2010
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Originally Posted by Woods-Rider View Post
Why do new rotors if yours are fine like you think they are?
Fine as for being straight, no warps or grooves, new ones because they are (apparently) at spec andif they were turned, they would be too thin
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Old 03-21-2010
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wow your ****s expensive.. 100 for MIDgrade pads?
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Old 03-21-2010
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i have never understood spending money on "nicer" ceramic brake pads... regular brake pads are 10 bucks and the ceramics are 50-80... i will bet my top dollar that ONE set of ceramics will not outlast 5-8 sets of regular brake pads... in fact the 5 sets of cheapos will last way longer... so save your money and get regular pads cause changing a set of pads takes literally 12 mins..
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Old 03-21-2010
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why would you need better pads if you drive mostly highway miles? its stop and go City driving that is hard on brakes.
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Old 03-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shizzy View Post
why would you need better pads if you drive mostly highway miles? its stop and go City driving that is hard on brakes.
stop ang go city driving wears your pads more, because you are using them more, but the use it's self isn't severe use, the pads don't get hot... when stopping (several times as i change hiways) from 80mph, they get really hot, and composite pads fade quickly with heat, where as ceramic stop faster when hot than cold... the brakes i have now aren't bad... i can stop pretty good, but i don't think i would be able to get my ABS to kick on on dry, clean pavement... the stopping power isn't that strong... and i am planning on putting 33" 's on in the next few months, so my stopping power will drop even further

i should add that those prices are in canadian dollars, and the truck is a 4x4, so the front brakes are significantly more than the 2wd, my friend did his pads on his 08 sport, 2wd, 4L, auto with a 4.10 torsen (don't ask how he managed to get that combination) the only difference between our drivelines is his is 2wd, and auto, where mine is 4 and stick, and his pads are $20
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Old 03-22-2010
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ASE tech here.

1. If you get no vibrations when stopping, don't worry about cutting the rotors/drums.

I always recommend it (breaks the pads in nice) but not necessary. I "pad slap" my personal cars all the time.

2. Ceramics are all around better pads. Less noise, can handle more heat, less dust etc, gives a bit more bite as well.

Ceramics are always the ones you want to aim for (up front atleast) But these trucks came stock with platinum (which is usually considered midgrade) The el-cheapo pads are generally made out of organic materials/compounds. They don't absorb heat very well, give off tons of dust, and suck for stopping. (Which is why ceramic and platnuim are the new industry standards almost no new cars come with el-cheapos.)

On the rear, you can throw on the cheap shoes with no issues, as you have a braking bias in these trucks. Just be ready for a tad bit more noise. Don't throw on ceramics in the rear, complete waste of money.

3. That parts dude was a fool. Cheap=Cheap. Platinum (mids) highway/light duty. Ceramic is for stop/go, heavy duty, and towing.

4. People saying ceramics burn up quicker, you are wrongggg. They last the same, if not longer then any other street pad.

5. Slotted/crossdrilled. I can go for hours about this subject. I'll be blunt.

Crossdrilled=Useless. Traps in more heat then a solid rotor. Cooling effects are from the veins, not holes in the surface. More surface, more heat displacement. Less surface less heat displacement. Even Porsche admits that "they are only for looks"

Slotted=racing/on road heavy duty/towing use. If you do offroading, these are not the rotors for you. Mud gets caught in there, and will destroy a pad quick. Slotted rotors "sweep" the pad clean. They will burn a pad up quicker. Not much, but quicker.

Anyway, just grab cheaps for the rear, mids-high for the front. If you want to spend the loot, solid rotors, some drums, hardware kit for the rear.

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Old 03-22-2010
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thanks steven, excelent explanation... the negative aspects of the slotted rotors you listed are what i was fearing, my truck isn't an off road vehicle, necissairly, but it does get dirty on a regular basis... (see this thread https://www.ranger-forums.com/f69/me...0-vids-103493/ )
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