Bearings bad again, HELP! (pics incl., and I want to blow the truck up) - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-22-2010
Crunchy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hull, Quebec
Posts: 486
Bearings bad again, HELP! (pics incl., and I want to blow the truck up)

OK, -5^C and I just finished changing wheel bearings, beating out races, the whole nine yards. I am at wits end. This makes me want to sell the truck! I do it so often I have a couple spares, and can do each side in under an hour.

Long story short, the Ranger eats bearings for breakfast. I get maybe, MAYBE 5k out of them. Always the same story. I hear a sound/grumble, or the wheel is loose. When I open it up, the inward side of each bearing have pits, and a small amount of the grease is stained brown....water?!

Today, the sound started at 80 km/h and sounded like a wah...wah....wah...wah, you get the point.

I use national parts (MOOG stamp on the box). And each time I replace the races, bearings and the seal. Use Lucas xtra heavy duty bearing grease (green stuff).

I snug them up (but not too much, I have the Ford manual, I follow that procedure, basically just over hand tight...any looser and the bearing keeps coming loose). Wheel spins freely when on the jackstands.

My tires are 30x9.5x15 BFG T/A, stock rims, running on 3" doestch spindles.

Can anybody help diagnose what the deal is from the following pics?

First 5 are the inner bearing race, last 2 are the outter race. The rollers are the same, but the were thrown who knows where in frustration!

PS- this makes me envy those $300 bearings you 4x4 guys have.







Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-22-2010
lumpy4000's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Orillia, Ontario
Posts: 379
try using clean grease and lots of it..... i use the same grease as you... i run skf bearings... looks like your getting some sort of grit or silca contamination.....

when i installed mine, they felt like i did them to tight, but now they have seated themselves and broke in quit well to say the least. next time i change the oil, i will probably regrease both side just to make sure i got enough in their...

but yours???? i dont know what to say.... your burning down into the brass coating and i have only seen that happen in crank and cam bearings where the engine either has to much play and clearance in the bearing race and suffers from lack of lubrication/oil starvation, happens to one side too, not the whole race....
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-22-2010
01_ranger_4x4's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Muskegon, Michigan
Posts: 3,585
are you replacing the grease seal on the back of the rotor when you do the bearings? i would try and figure out why there is water in there for one. and for two, if this is such an ongoing thing im questioning youre bearing packing and pre-load procedures. are you following the proper procedure for setting the bearing pre-load?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-22-2010
Crunchy's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hull, Quebec
Posts: 486
Brand new seal each time. I spin the tire while tightening the spindle nut, back off, repeat several times, and then last time to about 15ish inch-lb's. I use the socket to fit that spindle nut, with no ratchet, I tighten it by hand holding the socket in hand, and then a tad more, maybe 1/16 of a turn more using a ratchet.

Wheel spins freely. Does not get hot at all while in use.

I checked the surface the seal rides on and its smooth. Maybe the seal gets worn out with the particles that are coming off the race? I dunno.

Ohh, and the bearing is packed full, big wad of grease in the hand, pressing it between the rollers, several times over to make sure its full.

The inside of the rotor has some areas where it looks like it pitted...not sure if it was like that when I bought it or not, but it is on a non-contact surface. And no rust or discoloration on the inside rotor surface.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-22-2010
01_ranger_4x4's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Muskegon, Michigan
Posts: 3,585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunchy View Post
Brand new seal each time. I spin the tire while tightening the spindle nut, back off, repeat several times, and then last time to about 15ish inch-lb's. I use the socket to fit that spindle nut, with no ratchet, I tighten it by hand holding the socket in hand, and then a tad more, maybe 1/16 of a turn more using a ratchet.

Wheel spins freely. Does not get hot at all while in use.

I checked the surface the seal rides on and its smooth. Maybe the seal gets worn out with the particles that are coming off the race? I dunno.

Ohh, and the bearing is packed full, big wad of grease in the hand, pressing it between the rollers, several times over to make sure its full.

The inside of the rotor has some areas where it looks like it pitted...not sure if it was like that when I bought it or not, but it is on a non-contact surface. And no rust or discoloration on the inside rotor surface.
hmm, from youre description it sounds like youre doing it right. have you tried another brand of bearing or grease just in case? ive never had issues with that brand of bearing before but you never know i guess.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-23-2010
StrangerRanger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: The 253
Posts: 756
Have you re-checked your work after 100-500 km? I had to do this to the rear bearings on the Golf. They would get loose in about 350+- miles and would need a re-torque. Its the same set up as our fronts.

Are you dust caps on the outside fitting tight and snugly so no water or outside contaminates get in?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-23-2010
cheese_man's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: arthur
Posts: 2,100
did you remember to pack the rotor hub as well

i always used heavy duty wheel bearing grease

and 1 big squirt of tractor/trailer wheel bearing oil

( the oil keeps the grease soft and runny )

my brakes always lasted 60,000 km`s +
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
wheel bearings.... again... lifted_Mazda01 Suspension Tech 30 08-29-2009 09:03 PM
The_Dealer: Bad Deal Bad Member Bad Sell! LayingFrame89 Ranger Products, Company, & Member Reviews 34 12-01-2007 07:59 AM
Stock Drivesaft with RCD = BAD BAD BAD PICS INSIDE ranger General Ford Ranger Discussion 32 07-31-2007 12:50 PM
ALL offroaders are BAD BAD BAD! FMD General Ford Ranger Discussion 13 04-25-2006 08:21 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:56 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.