more EATC help......
#1
more EATC help......
alright......i thought i had everything together and installed on my EATC, but now for some reason my A/C wont work.......
before i installed the EATC, it worked like a dream....i just had it serviced and all new seals put in it......
alright, i have 12v power at BOTH electrical connections at the compressor.....i just put on a brand new clutch, pulley, and coil.......when i jump a wire from the battery to the clutch coil, it engages the clutch, but when the plug is pluged in, the coil wont engage.........the compressor is free and turns........i have tried to by-pass the safety switch and it still wont engage......
if i read the EATC How-To instructions properly, the Y/BLK wire from the EATC HU is susposed to go to the R/O wire in the trucks wiring harness to engage the A/C relay......i was told that it would show 0v when the A/C was selected to be on, and it would read 13v when the A/C was off.......it is reading 13v both times............
anyone know what i could try besides a new compressor....i think i just went and spent $85 on a new clutch and didn't need it.....
any help would be great....
before i installed the EATC, it worked like a dream....i just had it serviced and all new seals put in it......
alright, i have 12v power at BOTH electrical connections at the compressor.....i just put on a brand new clutch, pulley, and coil.......when i jump a wire from the battery to the clutch coil, it engages the clutch, but when the plug is pluged in, the coil wont engage.........the compressor is free and turns........i have tried to by-pass the safety switch and it still wont engage......
if i read the EATC How-To instructions properly, the Y/BLK wire from the EATC HU is susposed to go to the R/O wire in the trucks wiring harness to engage the A/C relay......i was told that it would show 0v when the A/C was selected to be on, and it would read 13v when the A/C was off.......it is reading 13v both times............
anyone know what i could try besides a new compressor....i think i just went and spent $85 on a new clutch and didn't need it.....
any help would be great....
#5
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I think that if you are seeing ~12v on both sides of the clutch it means that the ground is disconnected somewhere. Having 12v on both sides means that there is 0v potential across the clutch and that isn't going to do anything.
The ground side should always be ~0v with respect to chassis ground.
The hot side should be ~12v wrt chassis ground when the clutch is commanded.
The ground side should always be ~0v with respect to chassis ground.
The hot side should be ~12v wrt chassis ground when the clutch is commanded.
i also have 12v on the electrical plug on the back of the compressor........
#6
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
if i read the EATC How-To instructions properly, the Y/BLK wire from the EATC HU is susposed to go to the R/O wire in the trucks wiring harness to engage the A/C relay......i was told that it would show 0v when the A/C was selected to be on, and it would read 13v when the A/C was off.......it is reading 13v both times............
For 2000-back like yours, the purple wire controls the clutch directly. There are a series of switches that all must be closed for the power to get from the purple wire to the compressor clutch solenoid. However, you are seeing 12v difference across the clutch solenoid, so that all appears to be working. It also means that the clutch should be operating.
#8
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The EATC yellow/black to the truck's red/orange is how the EATC tells the HVAC blower motor that it is OK to operate. It has nothing to do with the compressor clutch.
For 2000-back like yours, the purple wire controls the clutch directly. There are a series of switches that all must be closed for the power to get from the purple wire to the compressor clutch solenoid. However, you are seeing 12v difference across the clutch solenoid, so that all appears to be working. It also means that the clutch should be operating.
For 2000-back like yours, the purple wire controls the clutch directly. There are a series of switches that all must be closed for the power to get from the purple wire to the compressor clutch solenoid. However, you are seeing 12v difference across the clutch solenoid, so that all appears to be working. It also means that the clutch should be operating.
you would think that the clutch would be operating.....espically since i have put power from the battery to it directly and it engages......
#9
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you would think that the clutch would be operating.....espically since i have put power from the battery to it directly and it engages......
#10
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
why did you delete that i was going to try that when i got home....
So, I saw it as no longer relevant and deleted it to avoid confusion.
#11
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Because it was based on the idea that you had 12v on both sides of the clutch connector. However, in a later post, you corrected that to say that there is a 12v difference between the 2 wires.
So, I saw it as no longer relevant and deleted it to avoid confusion.
So, I saw it as no longer relevant and deleted it to avoid confusion.
#12
Originally Posted by rwenzing
This is what is confusing me. Basically, you're saying that putting ~12v across the clutch from the battery makes it operate but ~12v across the clutch from the harness does not. How can that be?
this a/c thing is bothering the **** out of me.....
could the compressory be bad.....and how would i tell if it was bad?
#13
#14
Originally Posted by rwenzing
It doesn't matter if it's good or bad if the clutch can't engage to drive it. You need to resolve that before throwing any more parts at it.
could it be a bad A/C relay? it sounded like it was chattering when i opened the power distribution box under the hood......could that do it?
#15
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
could it be a bad A/C relay? it sounded like it was chattering when i opened the power distribution box under the hood......could that do it?
#16
Originally Posted by rwenzing
There is a WOT cutout relay on your 97 that must be closed for the clutch solenoid to get voltage. If the relay is chattering, it is either a bad relay or there is a wiring error somewhere. You could try swapping it temporarily with an identical relay in the box. That should tell you if the relay is at fault or not.
would you know were the wiring error could be by chance?
#18
#20
Originally Posted by Rockledge
Bob, in looking over the relevant '97 wiring diagram I was wondering something: could a blown A/C clutch diode either affect or prevent proper clutch operation?
#21
#22
#24
Originally Posted by Rockledge
I follow you (I think). As far as you can tell, the diode is there essentially just to protect the rest of the circuit when the clutch coil field collapses. It does not have a role in execution of the circuit (i.e., clutch engagement).
#25
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i pluged the connector in and then jumped a + wire off the battery to the B/Y wire and the clutch engaged.......i also OHM'd out my ground wire from the clutch to the chassie ground and it was good.......so that at least means it is a power problem right