Bleeding rear brakes problem - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-16-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Bleeding rear brakes problem

Hi,
I have a 97 ford ranger 2WD, RABS. I bled my brakes with a bleeder kit this week end and I found something strange about my rear drums brakes.
I found the bleeder screw (smaller than the front ones) just above the brake line, unscrew it to bleed and....surprisingly no fluid coming out. I unscrew completely this screw and no result either, spray some brake cleaner inside the screw to see if it was plugged: all good.
This happened to my 2 rear drums brakes.

I try to unscrew the brake line to see if fluid was flowing to the drum brake and yes fluid was coming out from the line.
I don't know what's going on. Any idea guys ?

Thank you for your help.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-16-2012
Blhde's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 2,804
Are the wheel cylinders leaking in the drum?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-16-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
I didn't dismantle my drum brakes but if my wheel cylinder are leaking, will be there any exterior signs of leaking fluid ?
Because there are no signs of it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-16-2012
rangerrunner11's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: .
Posts: 1,018
Well pretty self explanatory here. if it is flowing in the line and not flowing through the bleeder then you have a problem inside the drum...either clogged or leaking whatever

remove the cap and troubleshoot

P.S. when I bled my rear drum I had to have my sister pump it a few times.

Do it normally, unscrew the bleeder, press pedal, tighten bleeder, depress pedal, pump a few times and repeat, mostly air came out at first then fluid started after 3-4 cycle.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-16-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Good way to check it ! I'll try this. Thanks for the advice !
I forgot to mention before I bled my brakes, my pedal feels a little bit spongy and after the bleeding, the brake pedal is muche more firm.
I test it on a safe road and my brakes react like it should.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-23-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerrunner11 View Post
Well pretty self explanatory here. if it is flowing in the line and not flowing through the bleeder then you have a problem inside the drum...either clogged or leaking whatever

remove the cap and troubleshoot

P.S. when I bled my rear drum I had to have my sister pump it a few times.

Do it normally, unscrew the bleeder, press pedal, tighten bleeder, depress pedal, pump a few times and repeat, mostly air came out at first then fluid started after 3-4 cycle.
So I did remove my left (driver side) drum cover to see what's going on inside and I found out that a spring was broken. I think it's the brake shoe adjusting screw (number 15 on the image):


I also checked my wheel cylinder for leaks (and no leaks) and noticed that the pistons are pushed back inside the wheel cylinder.
I kinda know why it is pushed back. With this spring broken off, the upper springs pulls back those brake shoes and make pistons pushed back inside the WC (wheel cylinder).
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Basically I have to service my drum brakes. Anyway, I'll be careful while driving slowly with only front brakes to stop the car.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-24-2012
Scrambler82's Avatar
Old Guy User… ltr
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,769
Chances are the wheel cylinder is clogged inside of the Cylinder.
Have you done any other brake work besides bleeding the brakes ?
If there is fluid at the outside of the wheel cylinder and nothing coming out of the bleeder and the pistons on the wheel cylinder are “in” then there is only two options.
1) take the wheel cylinders apart and clean them up really well and HOPE you get them together and they work ok. Old cylinders get grooved and if the piston doesn't reseat to the old positions then they MAY/WILL leak.
2) Replace the wheel cylinder, do both sides.

If #1 doesn’t work then wheel cylinders are cheap and #2 is the best option.

Also, bleed the whole system start with the farthest away wheel cylinder and work to the master; RR, RL, FR, FL

What do your rear shoes look like ?

How about the front Pads ?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-24-2012
99offroadrngr's Avatar
TOYOTA
iTrader: (37)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 11,728
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchoungping View Post
So I did remove my left (driver side) drum cover to see what's going on inside and I found out that a spring was broken.
the picture doesn't work but its probably the self adjusting spring. They ALWAYS snap. you can get a whole spring kit for cheap at napa anyway, just replace them all
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-24-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Chances are the wheel cylinder is clogged inside of the Cylinder.
Have you done any other brake work besides bleeding the brakes ?
If there is fluid at the outside of the wheel cylinder and nothing coming out of the bleeder and the pistons on the wheel cylinder are “in” then there is only two options.
1) take the wheel cylinders apart and clean them up really well and HOPE you get them together and they work ok. Old cylinders get grooved and if the piston doesn't reseat to the old positions then they MAY/WILL leak.
2) Replace the wheel cylinder, do both sides.

If #1 doesn’t work then wheel cylinders are cheap and #2 is the best option.
Lately, I've replaced my front right brake caliper cause I had a seized caliper piston.
I've checked the wheel cylinder for leaks under the boot and there were none.
I've only removed the left drum cover for inspection the right one will be done this week end for inspection too.
For best results, I'll buy new wheel cylinders (both side) and do a drum brake job.

Also, bleed the whole system start with the farthest away wheel cylinder and work to the master; RR, RL, FR, FL[/QUOTE]

I saw that I had a problem on my drum brakes last week end while I was doing a complete brake bleeding. I bought motive brake bleeder for an easy one man job.

Quote:
What do your rear shoes look like ?
The thing is I forgot to measure my drum cover to know if I have a 9" or 10" drum brake but the way I remember my brake shoes is they're in good shape I think. Those are riveted brake shoes.
Anyway for better inspection, how do you inspect the brake shoes ?

Quote:
How about the front Pads ?
I've changed my front pads last year and when I change my brake caliper lately, I checked them again and they're in good shape. For caution, I've bought EBC brake pads but I don't remember if that's the green or yellow stuff.

BTW, thanks for your help !
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-24-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
the picture doesn't work but its probably the self adjusting spring. They ALWAYS snap. you can get a whole spring kit for cheap at napa anyway, just replace them all
I don't know why the picture doesn't work.
OK if they always snap, I'm reassured. I'll service my drums brakes soon when I'll get the whole parts.
Thanks !
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-24-2012
Blhde's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 2,804
You wil need a hardware kit, adjuster kits for both sides and get your drums turned. Sounds like you got a lot of miles on them.

Make sure you use a good brake grease on the insides of the adjusters and on the backing plate where the shoes contact. The adjuster like to freeze up and not work, the grease will just help everything work well and move again.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-24-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: TAHITI
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
You wil need a hardware kit, adjuster kits for both sides and get your drums turned. Sounds like you got a lot of miles on them.

Make sure you use a good brake grease on the insides of the adjusters and on the backing plate where the shoes contact. The adjuster like to freeze up and not work, the grease will just help everything work well and move again.
Yeah my car has more than 105 140 miles and the drum brakes had never been serviced. It's the first time for me.
Is a silicone based grease would do the trick ?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-24-2012
Blhde's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 2,804
The hi temp silicone disc brake stuff would work great.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake bleeding problem Davem4 General Ford Ranger Discussion 5 08-19-2015 09:51 AM
rear end swap and bleeding brakes??? bonez Drivetrain Tech 7 02-13-2011 12:45 AM
Help bleeding brakes. hornedfrog1985 General Technical & Electrical 3 02-02-2011 07:47 AM
Bleeding brakes on my 98 2wd jman511115 General Technical & Electrical 5 08-27-2008 09:46 AM
Bleeding brakes, Brake Lines jrpro130 General Technical & Electrical 6 11-28-2006 02:30 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:03 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.