Hi, i got an 03 ranger 2wd manual. Ive had no problems with it, until yesterday when i was in the drive thru at tims idling. The truck was in neautral foot off the clutch and it just turned off. I go to turn it back on and it turns over for like 15 seconds before firing up, then immediatley dies. Do it again, and it will stay running as long as i keep it revving up past like 2500. At this point i reverse out. I then drove back to work (i was on break) and the truck is bucking and jerking like crazy and keeps dying out until i floor it and it catches and revs up. Dont think its tranny or clutch as the truck bucks and jerks clutch in or out, no matter the gear. The truck will start up just fine and run normal until after a few minutes of driving, at which point i have to turn it off for 10 mins and start over. I think it may be fuel pump, but when i put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail of course the truck runs fine. The gauge is reading 65psi. Anyways basically the truck runs for a few minutes fine, then ill hear a screaching sound and it will buck to all **** no matter what speed or gear or clutch engaged or disengaged and i gotta floor it to keep the engine on until i can stop. Any ideas boys? Not goin to a mechanic cus i paid less for the thing then i would at the mechanic.

 

Welcome to the forum

What engine size?
2.3l, 3.0l, 4.0l

I don't see fuel pump issue in the description

Reads like larger Vacuum hose cracked or came off, if 4.0l SOHC engine then PCV Valve elbow(underside) was common issue
Check all the vacuum hoses you can see, it would need to be a larger hose for described problem
This wouldn't account for why it runs OK when cool

Could be IAC(idle air control) Valve has failed
Fuel injection can't use an "idle screw", no Jets, so they use a "controlled vacuum leak" to set idle, the IAC Valve, if its not working, and open, air flow is fouling up the mix ratios, just like a vacuum leak would
But again this would be all the time problem

Computer has 2 "modes"
1. Open Loop, when engine is cool, runs from memory tables, no O2 sensors since they need to be at 650degF or hotter to work
2. Closed Loop, uses O2 sensors to adjust air/fuel mix

But don't see O2 sensor issue, unless you have a 2.3l, 4cyl engine, then maybe, the 4cyl also had other issues that V6 engines didn't

From your description it reads like only when computer is in Closed Loop is when the problem occurs?
EGR Valve is also not used in Open Loop, only in Closed Loop
Unplug the Vacuum hose on the EGR valve and plug the hose end
See if problem goes away, but not sure why this would occur, if EGR solenoid was bad/leaking it would open EGR valve all the time

 

its a 3.slow if that helps. Ill check the egr vaccum hose tommrow, Ya im also not sure why it only does it after a few minutes of driving, but when it does i cant move. Feels like the fuel pump turns off and on thats why i said fuel pump earlier. Ill check the hose, and ill also pop my fuel pressure gauge on and drive it until it starts to die out and check fuel pressure then. Thanks for the help, ill let you know what i find tmmrw.

 

This is killing me... Just took it for a drive with my buddy to show him the issue. Ran it easy and hard cold and hot for 30 minutes, no issues at all. Now i dont know whether or not to drive it to work 20 minutes away.

 

Hi, i got a 2003 stick ranger 3.0. When i bought it, i heard the chirp of the cam synchronizer and replaced it myself as part of the reason i bought the truck was to teach myself how to fix ****, Anyways, a week later, the truck bucks once going 80kmh and the CEL pops on. Driving up to buddies cottage, so i just drove it til i got there and it ran with no problem. When i got there i checked the cam sync and notices the entire top plastic sensor had completely melted itself. Took it to the mechanic and he replaced it professionally this time, and no issues for 2 months. Mechanic also had no idea how in the **** that couldve melted but it did. Anyways, 2 months later im in the tims drive thru and the car stalls at idle. Start it up it cranks but wont start for 15 seconds. Starts up again but have to lay on the throttle to keep it from dying out. Drove it back home, and i heard a chirping very similar to the cam sync chirp and the truck bucks violently and is undrivable. Anyways, past 2 weeks ive been driving fine but occasionaly and randomly ( no specific rpm or speed or anything) the truck will start making that squealing chirping sound. Anytime i hear that very intermittent chirp i know im about to buck viollently and not have a good time. This happens only like once or twice a week, and will act up for the drive. If it stalls out it fires right up just fine. Anyways, given the fucked history of my cam synch and the very intermittend squeal and buck combo, do you think the cam synch issue has come back? or any other ideas on what a squealing and violent bucking means? It only bucks while the squealing noise is heard. As soon as i hear the squeal, it bucks, and when the squeal goes away, it drives fine. Also sometimes ill very faintly hear the squeal and buck slightly for a second then drive fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Where are the cam syncs you've installed come from?

 

BOYS SHES FIXED! **** finally. i did the trusty old cam sync test. Buddy fired it up while i beat on the ****** thing with a screw driver. Sure enough it sputtered every time i tapped it and if rattled it a little shed die right out. Anyways im ****** happy.

 

SHES FIXED! thanks for the reply man ended up finding out it was the cam sync ssensor. Beat on it with a screwdriver and it stalled and sputtered every time i tapped on it.