A/C Air Conditioning Blowing Hot / Warm Air
#1
A/C Air Conditioning Blowing Hot / Warm Air
I got an 03 Ranger and have never had any problems with it. I've had the EATC mod for at least 2 years..
Just the other day it was hot out and raining so I decided to kick on my AC. It was nothing but hot air coming out.
Any ideas on what to check?
Thanks much.
Just the other day it was hot out and raining so I decided to kick on my AC. It was nothing but hot air coming out.
Any ideas on what to check?
Thanks much.
#4
#5
#6
No, I didn't do that mod..
What's happening is the compressor is clicking on, running for a second, and then shutting right off. It just keeps doing that (when the AC is turned on).
This company here has videos and "how-to's" of using their product. http://id-usa.com/how_to_videos.asp
In the video it said that if your compressor is doing that a good chance is you are low on refridgerant and they sell refill / recharge units..
What's happening is the compressor is clicking on, running for a second, and then shutting right off. It just keeps doing that (when the AC is turned on).
This company here has videos and "how-to's" of using their product. http://id-usa.com/how_to_videos.asp
In the video it said that if your compressor is doing that a good chance is you are low on refridgerant and they sell refill / recharge units..
#9
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compressor cycling is normal.
if it is low on R134a then u have a leak. u can add all the refridgerant u want but it still has a leak. u need to isolate and repair the leak.
few simple things to check:
- Condensor is clean of debris (should be in front of the radiator)
- Vent temps, an el cheapo meat thermometer in the vent (close the others) and see what it reads. should be around 42-45 degrees.
if it is low on R134a then u have a leak. u can add all the refridgerant u want but it still has a leak. u need to isolate and repair the leak.
few simple things to check:
- Condensor is clean of debris (should be in front of the radiator)
- Vent temps, an el cheapo meat thermometer in the vent (close the others) and see what it reads. should be around 42-45 degrees.
#10
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
compressor cycling is normal.
if it is low on R134a then u have a leak. u can add all the refridgerant u want but it still has a leak. u need to isolate and repair the leak.
few simple things to check:
- Condensor is clean of debris (should be in front of the radiator)
- Vent temps, an el cheapo meat thermometer in the vent (close the others) and see what it reads. should be around 42-45 degrees.
if it is low on R134a then u have a leak. u can add all the refridgerant u want but it still has a leak. u need to isolate and repair the leak.
few simple things to check:
- Condensor is clean of debris (should be in front of the radiator)
- Vent temps, an el cheapo meat thermometer in the vent (close the others) and see what it reads. should be around 42-45 degrees.
When my truck was new and i ran max a/c the temp in the vent was about 27*, also had condensation running down the vents and down the radio bezel and to the floor, dealer said it was normal and wish his did that, finally cleared up some to work the way its supposed to, never did figure out why it was so cold
#11
#13
More than likely you are low on refrigerant and if your compressor is short cycling you've not lost very much. Low refrigerant pressure will cause the compressor clutch to cycle on the low pressure switch. What I would do is add refrigerant as needed then wait a while before taking on the task of finding the leak, if you can. A small leak will be very difficult to locate. You can purchase R134A with a tracer in it that will make the leak visible. Also, anywhere there is a refrigerant leak there will be oil present. Oil circulates with the refrigerant and will be deposited around the area of the leak.
Swimmer
Swimmer
#15
Refrigerant checked out OK last night..
Earl, I can't remember.. Is the blend door actuator a part that is replaced in the EATC swap?
Do you know how I can check it? The article isn't exactly a how-to but you're right.. It does sound like it may be it!
EDIT - Just re-read John's how to.. That is a part in the EATC install. I could have sworn I bought it brand new from Ford.. Yup just checked. $43.32 on 8/9/04. Man, that didn't last long for a new part (if that is indeed it).
Earl, I can't remember.. Is the blend door actuator a part that is replaced in the EATC swap?
Do you know how I can check it? The article isn't exactly a how-to but you're right.. It does sound like it may be it!
EDIT - Just re-read John's how to.. That is a part in the EATC install. I could have sworn I bought it brand new from Ford.. Yup just checked. $43.32 on 8/9/04. Man, that didn't last long for a new part (if that is indeed it).
Last edited by tbird2340; 06-06-2007 at 12:03 PM.
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