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Check engine light came on, error code P0320?
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger that runs pretty good once it gets going, the problem is that here lately it hasn't been starting first time. It'll crank but not start, then other times it'll start up perfect first time. Then today, my check engine light came on and got the code P0320: Ignition engine speed input circuit malfunction.
Any ideas? Did some research online and talked to my father in law who's a mechanic and he thinks it could be the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks! |
Hopefully it is the CKP(crank position) sensor or its wires, other wise it is the computer failing.
CKP sensors rarely fail, and I have never read about one becoming intermittent, they either stop working, dead, or work all the time, so probably wiring, water in connector maybe? I forget what years they did this but on some Rangers they put the Computer(PCM) at the top center of the firewall, connector on engine side. This location could get water intrusion via the rear hood seal, and it was a bad enough problem that they added a cover for the connector on later years. I mention this because the ICM(ignition control module) is IN the PCM on the 2001, and the ICM is what is reporting the problem. The ICM is what uses the CKP sensor signal. |
Originally Posted by RonD
(Post 2075609)
Hopefully it is the CKP(crank position) sensor or its wires, other wise it is the computer failing.
CKP sensors rarely fail, and I have never read about one becoming intermittent, they either stop working, dead, or work all the time, so probably wiring, water in connector maybe? I forget what years they did this but on some Rangers they put the Computer(PCM) at the top center of the firewall, connector on engine side. This location could get water intrusion via the rear hood seal, and it was a bad enough problem that they added a cover for the connector on later years. I mention this because the ICM(ignition control module) is IN the PCM on the 2001, and the ICM is what is reporting the problem. The ICM is what uses the CKP sensor signal. |
What engine is it?
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Originally Posted by RonD
(Post 2075632)
What engine is it?
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On my 2000 3.0, the connector is to the right center of the firewall, just right of the blower fan/evaporator housing. If you open the hood, then walk over to the passenger side of the engine bay, then glance at the center top of the fire wall, you should see this connector that RonD speaks of.
About a month ago I posted a thread on how my guage cluster intermediately would shut down, then start working; RonD memtioned this same situation, and that Ford had started a "silent recall' and issued a "TSB" (technical service bullitin) to the Ford techs to place a cover over this connector. Since our previos truck owners did not experience (?) this problem, yours and my truck apparently did not get this fix. I have put a large piece of A/C ductwork tape over this connector to protect the "seam" of the connector from getting any water from getting into the connector from rain entering from the hood (back area at the cowl). Since this has been done, I have not had the guage failure situation. Since some of the cluster guages are using the ECU as input, along with their own sensors that share this same connector, I'd start with it first before buying a replacement ECU. A piece of good insulating tape to cover the seam of this connector will cost you peanuts, or fabricate a piece of metal to do the same. |
Originally Posted by bucko
(Post 2075702)
On my 2000 3.0, the connector is to the right center of the firewall, just right of the blowwer fan/evaporator housing. If you open the hood, then walk over to the passenger side of the engine bay, then glance at the center top of the fire wall, you should see this connector that RonD speaks of.
About a month ago I posted a thread on how my guage cluster intermediately would shut down, then start working; RonD memtioned this same situation, and that Ford had started a "silent recall' and issued a "TSB" (technical service bullitin) to the Ford techs to place a cover over this connector. Since our previos truck owners did not experience (?) this problem, yours and my truck apparently did not get this fix. I have put a large piece of A/C ductwork tape over this connector to protect the "seam" of the connector from getting any water from getting into the connector from rain entering from the hood (back area at the cowl). Since this has been done, I have not had the guage failure situation. Since some of the cluster guages are using the ECU as input, along with their own sensors that share this same connector, I'd start with it first before buying a replacement ECU. A piece of good insulating tape to cover the seam of this connector will cost you peanuts, or fabricate a piece of metal to do the same. Thanks for the reply! I can see the connector but it seems like it's hard to get to it. Would it be worth calling the local ford dealership and ask them and this silent recall? So far the truck has always started, just takes a few extra seconds or on the second attempt. |
Well went to start my truck this morning and nothing, just a click. Could it be the battery? Even though it threw out that error code?
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Well I replaced the starter and it started first time with no issues!
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I'd say that the error code and faulty starter are not related. I suspect all the cranking you've had to do lately to start the truck took its toll on your aging starter.
Still have the CEL (check engine light) and code? |
Originally Posted by bucko
(Post 2075920)
I'd say that the error code and faulty starter are not related. I suspect all the cranking you've had to do lately to start the truck took its toll on your aging starter.
Still have the CEL (check engine light) and code? |
from time to time i have found that a simple thing like a loose connection at the starter will throw an unnecessary code. bad grounds do that to. so when you replace some part, you inadvertently fix the original issue.
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Originally Posted by motorhead119
(Post 2075941)
from time to time i have found that a simple thing like a loose connection at the starter will throw an unnecessary code. bad grounds do that to. so when you replace some part, you inadvertently fix the original issue.
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did you get a new starter or a re-manufactured starter? cause the remans can be bad right out of the box. it just depends on how good a day the reman company did on that run of parts. i have gone through 3 bad starters before and it took a 4th to get a good one, its all a hassle so now if i can, i spend a little more and get a real all new starter. same goes for alternators.
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Originally Posted by motorhead119
(Post 2075967)
did you get a new starter or a re-manufactured starter? cause the remans can be bad right out of the box. it just depends on how good a day the reman company did on that run of parts. i have gone through 3 bad starters before and it took a 4th to get a good one, its all a hassle so now if i can, i spend a little more and get a real all new starter. same goes for alternators.
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While this will not be in agreement with others, I always prefer OEM, and not rebuilt or "just like OEM quality" parts. Instead of buying new OEM, I will sometimes head to the local boneyard and pull a used part (such as a starter or alternator) from a low mileage vehicle, and install it. So far, I have had no issues with starters and alternators when using these. Even used OEM parts I find to be better than a remanufactured one from most auto stores.
And the starter had no "direct" issue with the trouble code you got. I can't see a bad starter causing a CEL/trouble code. As another poster mentioned, perhaps you had an issue with a connector under the hood, and when you changed the starter, you bumped it, or seated it. |
junk yard parts
Junk yard.parts are just that. Junk.
There is a difference between refurbished or rebuilt and remanufactured parts. A refurbished part is bench tested and the component(s) that fail are replaced and its painted and sent to the store. A remanufactured part is stripped down to the casing and non wear parts such as shafts. The entire remainder of the component is replaced with new. Such as in a starter the bendix, windings, starter, bearings, springs etc are new. Not so in a refurb Hint your orange and black store has the refurb. Refurb bad. Buy green and have more success |
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