2000 3.0l 2wd manual not starting
#1
2000 3.0l 2wd manual not starting
So, I was doing one of the notorious bench bleeds of the clutch hydraulic line. I was a dummy and didnt disconnect the battery and when putting the line back in I hit something that created some sparks. When I went to start the truck again it did not start.
I first though I had toasted the starter. I then decided before I go removing and testing it I check the fuses. So I bought a new relay and installed it, and checked continuity of the fuse(24) and it was good. With the new relay in it still did not start. I tore open the old relay to see if I could see any scorch marks or anything and there was nothing. When I put the old one back on I accidentally hit the arm on it completing the circuit and the engine started up, and I turned it off rotating the key back into the off position. So it seemed to be an issue with the clutch pedal position switch. Well today I removed the switch and check continuity of it between pink and white/pink, it had continuity. So the I took some copped and tied it all together and stuck them in the connectors to bypass the clutch position sensor. Still wont start.
Does anyone have any ideas or something I am missing? I guess the next step is just to check continuity between the ignition all the way to the relay?
Thanks in advance.
I first though I had toasted the starter. I then decided before I go removing and testing it I check the fuses. So I bought a new relay and installed it, and checked continuity of the fuse(24) and it was good. With the new relay in it still did not start. I tore open the old relay to see if I could see any scorch marks or anything and there was nothing. When I put the old one back on I accidentally hit the arm on it completing the circuit and the engine started up, and I turned it off rotating the key back into the off position. So it seemed to be an issue with the clutch pedal position switch. Well today I removed the switch and check continuity of it between pink and white/pink, it had continuity. So the I took some copped and tied it all together and stuck them in the connectors to bypass the clutch position sensor. Still wont start.
Does anyone have any ideas or something I am missing? I guess the next step is just to check continuity between the ignition all the way to the relay?
Thanks in advance.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Not starting means a few thing but I assume you mean doesn't crank, starter motor doesn't activate
Starter relay in the engine fuse box is the "arm" you hit?
If so then that doesn't involve the starter circuit from ignition switch to that relay.
That starter circuit runs like this
ignition switch(12v in START)----------(red/blue)--------Fuse #24------------(white/pink)------------clutch switch----(pink)-------firewall--------(tan/red)--------relay in engine fuse box----------ground(PATS)
This 12volts is not used to the starter motor itself, the relay pass 12v from fuse #5 in the engine fuse box to the starter motor when relay is closed
You may have effected PATS module's Ground wire for that relay, dark Blue/orange stripe wire
White/pink wire should have 12v with key in START
Relays base should have 12v in one slot all the time, from fuse #5
Then another slot should have 12v with key in START
relay slots look like this: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/...ng_diagram.png
85 and 86 are the slots that activate the relay
One will have the 12v with key in START the other will be the Ground from PATS module, there is no polarity so it can be wired either way
With key on and no flashing PATS light, you can test 85 and 86 to see which one is a Ground using a test light or volt meter hooked to Positive battery terminal.
Meaning the other one will be the slot that should have 12v from clutch switch, pink wire-tan/red wire
30 or 87 will be full time 12v and the other goes to starter motor
Starter relay in the engine fuse box is the "arm" you hit?
If so then that doesn't involve the starter circuit from ignition switch to that relay.
That starter circuit runs like this
ignition switch(12v in START)----------(red/blue)--------Fuse #24------------(white/pink)------------clutch switch----(pink)-------firewall--------(tan/red)--------relay in engine fuse box----------ground(PATS)
This 12volts is not used to the starter motor itself, the relay pass 12v from fuse #5 in the engine fuse box to the starter motor when relay is closed
You may have effected PATS module's Ground wire for that relay, dark Blue/orange stripe wire
White/pink wire should have 12v with key in START
Relays base should have 12v in one slot all the time, from fuse #5
Then another slot should have 12v with key in START
relay slots look like this: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/...ng_diagram.png
85 and 86 are the slots that activate the relay
One will have the 12v with key in START the other will be the Ground from PATS module, there is no polarity so it can be wired either way
With key on and no flashing PATS light, you can test 85 and 86 to see which one is a Ground using a test light or volt meter hooked to Positive battery terminal.
Meaning the other one will be the slot that should have 12v from clutch switch, pink wire-tan/red wire
30 or 87 will be full time 12v and the other goes to starter motor
#3
Once I determine which slot, either 85 or 86 has the 12v using a voltage detector, do you recommend I ground the other to the frame? Or will that still keep the PATS system deadlined?
Also, when I put the key into the on position the THEFT light flashes once. So I think it believes its operating as designed.
Also, when I put the key into the on position the THEFT light flashes once. So I think it believes its operating as designed.
Last edited by dustinloya; 04-25-2019 at 08:04 AM.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Grounding the fuel pump relay won't matter to PATS one way or the other, PATS main anti-theft deterrent is no Fuel Injector pulses if key doesn't pass the test, there is no work around for no fuel injectors.
So if fuel pump relay doesn't "click" on for 2 seconds, and then "click" off with key on, go ahead and ground the relay if you want, fuel pump should get power then any time key is on
If theft light comes on with the key and then goes off, Key has Passed the test and PATS is off-line
Theft light flashes rapidly when key doesn't pass the test or if there is a problem "reading" the key
So if fuel pump relay doesn't "click" on for 2 seconds, and then "click" off with key on, go ahead and ground the relay if you want, fuel pump should get power then any time key is on
If theft light comes on with the key and then goes off, Key has Passed the test and PATS is off-line
Theft light flashes rapidly when key doesn't pass the test or if there is a problem "reading" the key
#5
Grounding the fuel pump relay won't matter to PATS one way or the other, PATS main anti-theft deterrent is no Fuel Injector pulses if key doesn't pass the test, there is no work around for no fuel injectors.
So if fuel pump relay doesn't "click" on for 2 seconds, and then "click" off with key on, go ahead and ground the relay if you want, fuel pump should get power then any time key is on
If theft light comes on with the key and then goes off, Key has Passed the test and PATS is off-line
Theft light flashes rapidly when key doesn't pass the test or if there is a problem "reading" the key
So if fuel pump relay doesn't "click" on for 2 seconds, and then "click" off with key on, go ahead and ground the relay if you want, fuel pump should get power then any time key is on
If theft light comes on with the key and then goes off, Key has Passed the test and PATS is off-line
Theft light flashes rapidly when key doesn't pass the test or if there is a problem "reading" the key
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Sorry you were talking about the starter relay not fuel pump relay
Yes, you can ground that relay to see if starter motor will now work
85 or 86 will only have 12v with key turned to START so you need to test if you have that 12volts first
Yellow/blue Wire from that relay runs down to starter motor and connects to the "S" post, smaller post on the starter motor's solenoid(small cylinder on top of the motor)
This wire gets 12v when relay closes(activates) and thats what causes starter motor to work
Yes, you can ground that relay to see if starter motor will now work
85 or 86 will only have 12v with key turned to START so you need to test if you have that 12volts first
Yellow/blue Wire from that relay runs down to starter motor and connects to the "S" post, smaller post on the starter motor's solenoid(small cylinder on top of the motor)
This wire gets 12v when relay closes(activates) and thats what causes starter motor to work
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