E-Fan + 160 t-stat + AC always on = over heating
#1
06-25-2008
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Location: McAllen, TEXAS
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E-Fan + 160 t-stat + AC always on = over heating
ya i am having a problem here i always have my ac on full blast and my truck has a 160 t-stat i have the jusnes controller and e-fan.....i am thinking of wiring it up to a switch....it only happens when i am running my ac on max and i am guessing that the e-fan does not kick on or what is going on here?...need to get this fixed before i lift my truck
tony
tony
#2
06-26-2008
#3
06-26-2008
#5
06-26-2008
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i am going to take the t-stat competely out again and see if it over heats i also want to know does any1 have there e-fans wired to a switch????
#6
06-26-2008
Programming the ECU isn't that big of a deal unless you run the fans from the ECU. The reason people do lower temperature T-stats is they would have the ability to run a few degrees more timing. Are your fans turning on at all? Splicing into the HVAC, your fans should turn on when the AC turns on. Check the voltages to and from the controller. What was the reason for the switch? Is the power side of the fans fused?
#7
06-26-2008
If your fan is indeed running? It most likely **is** your t-stat.
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat.
On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger.
Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject.
Regards,
Rich
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat.
On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger.
Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject.
Regards,
Rich
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06-26-2008
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#10
06-26-2008
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#11
06-26-2008
If your fan is indeed running? It most likely **is** your t-stat.
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat.
On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger.
Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject.
Regards,
Rich
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat.
On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger.
Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject.
Regards,
Rich
How's your coolant look anyway? throw a gauge in that thing and find out.
#12
06-26-2008
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#13
06-26-2008
the opening size for a 160 and 195 thermostat will be the same, with the same flow through the radiator. The 160 will just open sooner than the 195.
We do agree that the OEM temp thermostat should be used.
Last edited by Takeda; 06-27-2008 at 04:20 AM.
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06-26-2008
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#15
06-26-2008
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well if your not gonna listen to anyone that knows then why did you ask?
your truck is going to continue to overheat, and taking the thermostat out is going to make it overheat faster!
your truck is computer controlled, the PCM looks for proper engine temp then it determens how much timing to put into the engine and also how long to keep the fuel injectors open, all this is based on engine temp. its called "calibration" now if you were running a carborator then it would be different. i'd put a 195 back in and find the real problem.
your truck is going to continue to overheat, and taking the thermostat out is going to make it overheat faster!
your truck is computer controlled, the PCM looks for proper engine temp then it determens how much timing to put into the engine and also how long to keep the fuel injectors open, all this is based on engine temp. its called "calibration" now if you were running a carborator then it would be different. i'd put a 195 back in and find the real problem.
#16
06-26-2008
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it gets that hot here, and i have the stock mechanical fan, stock thermostat, and i run the a/c on max all day long, i never overheat, my advice is-just go back to stock, as stated by 04 EDGE, its all contolled by the PCM, your truck know how to keep itself cool as long as you leave well enough alone.
#19
06-27-2008
I would not think you would want a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose, that is going to be the coolest location in the entire cooling system. Where the coolant exits the engine at the thermostat will be the hottest, that's where the temp sensor needs to be. A 160 thermostat is way too cool!
Last edited by Takeda; 06-27-2008 at 04:32 AM.
#20
06-27-2008
The stats passages are not the issue. The coolant constantly moving is.
Rich
#21
06-27-2008
This is why NO THERMOSTAT will cause an over-heating condition! And, as D has posted, he has never had an overheating problem with a 160!
Last edited by Takeda; 06-27-2008 at 10:42 AM.
#22
06-27-2008
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I would not think you would want a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose, that is going to be the coolest location in the entire cooling system. Where the coolant exits the engine at the thermostat will be the hottest, that's where the temp sensor needs to be. A 160 thermostat is way too cool!
The factory sensor measures what? The one in the lower hose measures what?
WOW! Someone would actually be able to tell if their cooling system was WORKING! My exhaust is quite nice in tone and hides the E-fans volume/noise/sound. There needs to be a way to tell/monitor whats going on. Its wise to protect ones investment when they have a few grand into their mill.
#23
06-27-2008
For once, don't be a.. TRY and think WHY someone would want to do such?
The factory sensor measures what? The one in the lower hose measures what?
WOW! Someone would actually be able to tell if their cooling system was WORKING! My exhaust is quite nice in tone and hides the E-fans volume/noise/sound. There needs to be a way to tell/monitor whats going on. Its wise to protect ones investment when they have a few grand into their mill.
The factory sensor measures what? The one in the lower hose measures what?
WOW! Someone would actually be able to tell if their cooling system was WORKING! My exhaust is quite nice in tone and hides the E-fans volume/noise/sound. There needs to be a way to tell/monitor whats going on. Its wise to protect ones investment when they have a few grand into their mill.
#24
06-27-2008
Are you aware of any vehicle cooling system that requires the thermostat to close to allow heat transfer time in the radiator?
Stant's response (Chris Hoffman):
Not aware of anything like that.
