Engine to Body Ground? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 12-18-2009
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Engine to Body Ground?

I have a 1993 Ford Ranger 4.0 manual transmission. I found a ground strap awhile ago and did not think much of it as I could not see where it came from. My temp gauge troubleshooting says to check the engine to body ground first to make sure there is a good ground. Besides the battery to the frame, are there two ground straps (one body to frame and one engine to frame?) I cannot find any information on the web or in the Chilton book. Clarification and location information would be much appreciated. I do know that Ford Rangers had a fluctuation problem with their temp gauges (TSB found on AllData) I changed the temp sending unit, but want to make sure that I have the correct grounds. Thanks
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Old 12-18-2009
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The engine to body ground is usually a woven steel strap that goes from the rear head bolt to the firewall.
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Old 12-18-2009
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Originally Posted by Bloodhound03 View Post
Besides the battery to the frame, are there two ground straps (one body to frame and one engine to frame?) I cannot find any information on the web or in the Chilton book. Clarification and location information would be much appreciated.
The manual shows three grounds directly from the battery negative terminal:

Engine - lower driver side, probably on or near the starter on your 4.0
Body - bolts to the upper driver side of the radiator core support near the battery
Frame - bolts to the driver side frame rail below the battery

You will also find other short ground straps here and there, often from the body to the frame or from one panel to another like the strap from the firewall to the hood.
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Old 12-18-2009
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Thanks for the quick replys. I will pursue this tomorrow morning. I will update so others who may have this problem are helped.
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Old 12-19-2009
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I followed the three wires from the negative terminal and had continuity to each area. One did go to the body near the radiator, the other underneath the fuse box holder, and the last to the starter. I tested continuity from my temp sending unit to the battery and it was perfect. I put in an aftermarket temp gauge to make sure that the dash one was not screwed up as it keeps fluctuating. The aftermarket fluctuates also. Not sure why. I thought it was supposed to stay constant once it warmed up. Can anyone tell me if their gauge fluctuates or does it remain constant once it warms up?
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Old 12-19-2009
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Originally Posted by Bloodhound03 View Post
I tested continuity from my temp sending unit to the battery and it was perfect.
Did you check end-to-end continuity on the wire that goes from the sender plug to the cluster plug? The wire color code should be either red/white or black/light blue. Unplugged from the sender and the cluster, resistance through the wire should be near zero and should not fluctuate when doing a wiggle test.
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Old 12-20-2009
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That is a good point. I did not and that makes sense to check the lead. I did however put an aftermarket temp gauge in the truck just to see what happens. It too fluctuates. Never past a danger point but it bugs me that I have changed so much on this truck I would think it should stay constant. I have a new gauge, new coolant sensor, new thermostat (2x to make sure), new coolant, new hoses, new water pump. When I bought the truck it had orange rust water in it. I am thinking that maybe the radiator has some blockage in it. For $40.00 I can take it out and get it cleaned and tested at the radiator shop. I get nice heat, I am just worried that this fluctuating, if excessive due to the radiator could ruin my head gasket. I have cleaned out the system myself two times. The top hose is about 40 degrees hotter than the bottom hose which seems okay. With the age and miles it probably could not hurt to clean the radiator.
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Old 12-20-2009
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Originally Posted by Bloodhound03 View Post
I have a new gauge, new coolant sensor, new thermostat (2x to make sure), new coolant, new hoses, new water pump.
How many wires were on the coolant temp sensor that was replaced?
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Old 12-20-2009
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The coolant temp sensor that I replaced has two wires. The temp sending unit that I replaced has one.
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Old 12-20-2009
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So, about all that you have left electrically is a wiggle test on the wire from the cluster to the sender. After that, you'll need to look into the mechanical side.
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