Hey y'all. The 3.0 in my 91 Ranger finally gave up the ghost after 174,000+ . I have a nice original 302 out of a 68 Fairlane and a C-4 trans I have decided to put in, instead of the sensor laden 3.0 that came in it. Could someone recommend a rock solid motor mount kit I could buy? Ain't got the time to be fab'ing anything right now, so a friend is yanking the motor out for me and will install the 302 , too. I told him I'd order the kit

 

Welcome to the forum

Have a read here for 1991 Ranger to V8, motor mount parts needs: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...versions.shtml

2WD or 4x4 matters

Also need to move transmission mount for the C4 I believe

 

2wd. I'll check the link. Thanks

 

4x but I did the 5.0L / C4 Trans swap and I didn't have to move the Trans Mount.

The Mounts from an L&L Products Kit bolted in, as most kit should, only mods is the firewall, the tunnel Seal needed to be folded up against the body, and a notch out the passenger side frame for the headers (4x V8 Swap).

Curiosity:
My biggest problem is, "Why a 302 instead of a 5.0L" ? There are many small changes in the two blocks !
I understand you have the 302 motor but the improvements the 5.0L brings to the table is a big reason to get a newer engine.
The 5.0L took care of a lot of engine oil leaks the 302 had, the biggest is the rear main seal, on the 302 it is a two piece seal and when needing replacement you had to take the engine's lower-end partially apart, and on the 5.0L the seal is a ring, installed from outside the engine by removing the trans.
You get Fuel Injection with the 5.0L and a computer allowing mods to the engine and the computer adjusts where necessary.

I know it is your choice, I just wanted to get you thinking in a different direction.

Ltr

 

I am trying to stay away from any and all " computer driven electronics" Nothing but a money grab from the Manufacturers. I've had enough of buying and buying and buying different sensors, that everyone including professional mechanics "assures" me that is the problem, only to find out it isn't and I just wasted my money. The old motors are really easy to figure out what is wrong and what part is needed to fix whatever issue is at hand. There is so much useless trash under the hood of 80's and later automobiles. Yeah, yeah, go green, blah,blah,blah. Pop the hood on a stock 51 Ford truck and you can climb on it and work on whatever ya feel like messing with. Nothing's in the way. You could have the entire motor out of it in an hour
If I had a 5.0 motor, I would use it, but I bought a 97 Thunderbird with this earlier motor and trans in it for $150

 

People often think older technology is better because its easier to work on, its not, lol
Its only because you have to work on it monthly to keep it running well, so you "learned" how to work on it

The advent of computer control means there is no required work monthly, so most never "learn" how to work on it

Gasoline engines haven't changed since 1890's, compression, fuel and spark, and they run
Fuel mix and spark timing are the two things that need attention all the time
Manually adjusted pre-computer, automatically adjusted post-computer


But in any case first thing you should do when reliving "the good ol' days", is to get a Coil on Cap HEI distributor for your 302
GM came up with a very good system with HEI, worth its weight in gold as far as spark systems using a distributor
Any time I have to work on a distributor engine I see if there is a coil on cap HEI available and get it
Put the stock one in a box, and run the HEI
Literally 1 wire to hook up, 2 if you want a tachometer, and extremely reliable

 

I have the Coil On Cap for my latest 5.0L build... (a Long Rod 5.0L) !

When I first saw them for the Ford I thought it was a great idea for the new engine.

Now if there was an Overhead Cam Head Kit for the 5.0L W-Engine.

In your last posting you said the engine cam from "I bought a 97 Thunderbird with this earlier motor and trans in it for $150", that car should not have a 302 of any kind in it.
I'm thinking more along the lines of a V6 of some sort but the year of the Bird maybe off.

I know and as ROnD said also, think on the idea you have a little more because the 302 version of the SBF is becoming a boat anchor (No insult meant).
I used a 302 in my first Mustang, a healthy 289/0.030 over to 292, in my third, turned high 12s in a '66 Stang, both engines with work ran well and produced great power but the new 5.0L has it all over the older design.
I know this appears I am trying to just plain old change your mind but I'm not, I am just trying to point out newer technology can make things easier.

The Computer, if you keep your engine running on a '93 Mass Air Computer, there is less interaction with adjustments. I installed a '93 5.0L in my '88, set it up, timing, fuel pressure, and never had to think about those things again, and it ran great... 20 mpg ~ a lot of the time.

I'm done trying to get you to see the wisdom in using the a 5.0L, all I can say is Good Luck, ask questions when needed, and the truck should run well once installed and tuned.

Ltr

p.s. When Mechanics tell you they are sure it is one part that is bad and it turns out to be wrong and of course they don't put the old back on so you have to pay for the non-bad part, it isn't the sensors that are bad or the concept of running your engine with a computer and sensors, it is the Mechanic that is the problem and the Shop's Policy of not taking parts off the engine.

 

The 97 T bird I bought doesnt have anything left under the hood that is stock. It's all early stuff.

My business is a machine and welding shop and I specialize in restoring 1936 to 1957 Harley Davidson motorcycles. 20+ years now as a business. After seeing the new HD's and all their computer controlled crap and every time the least little thing goes wrong, (and it happens often believe it or not), $600 the last time I checked to put it on the computer and see what's wrong with "the system". Same crap with John Deere tractors these days. They build in a computer program and copyrighted it, so you HAVE to use their techs and on their time line. Pooy !! Fortunately, some computer hackers had some respect for farmers and took care of that scam !!! Ticked JD off, but I have no remorse for greedy companies. I guess , some folks want a total leisurely life, never having to upkeep anything.If that's what they want , good for them. I'm the exact opposite tho. I learned to make cool stuff instead of buying it and fixing stuff instead of replacing it. The difference between a parts changer and a real mechanic. Back in the days, a real mechanic could fix pretty much anything.If he didnt have a part, he could make one. Most folks these days are clueless and dont care to learn anything new.

The mechanics didnt do anything but tell me what they thought the problem would be and why. I bought the part, replaced it and when I found out it wasnt the problem, I took the loss myself. Live and learn
Thanks, I had planned on the HEI timer. .
I just find it amazing that Ford built the 302 motor for 15 years and I don't recall hearing people moan the blues about how sorry the motor was motor..

 

Computers, I used to think computer the same way but changed my mind and been happy.

The problems that the 5.0L block fixed, are the big thing, I can go on but just go up to my postings, the things it fixed were the main problems with the 302 block itself, not to even consider the computer.

The Coil in the Cap that Ron was talking about also will help, although not a Ford thing, it is a great idea, something to look into.



Everything else in the swap will bolt in not matter which block you use, the wiring will be easier with the old 302 ignition... Start, run , hot... bing, bam, boom !

Drop of the ignition keys !


But IF you want the 302 then consider,

My first 302 was in a '67-8 Stang GT, came with a 390 but I blew that up, the 302 worked well, decent power, but when I bolted on a set of 351-W Heads, a Short duration-high lift, Crower Cam, Headers, (especially the headers), the game changed, the little Ford came alive.

The trick of a Short duration/High Lift Cam, no matter which manufacturer, is ... it will develop more low end torque and it will help on the higher end with a more HP. Sort of “increasing the lift of the cam” by adding a higher ratio in the rocker arms, but more efficient, hangs the valves wide open but keep the duration short, which is needed on a small block.

If you can get a set of 351-W Heads, per the book... they can add approximately 35 HP... does it... who know but I thought it felt like it added some and the headers... makes the little engine sound big and performs even better.

You can use a 302 Intake with the 351 heads, extra sealing around water ports, aftermarket 180 Degree Intake Manifold will help too.



Remember the internal combustion engine is nothing more than a large air pump, more air in, more air out, it has to balance.

Increasing the intake, i.e. Intake Manifold and Heads, then increasing the exhaust, i.e. Headers, you will be surprised the new feel of the little engine.



I had a quick rolling race with a '71 Camaro, 350, 4 speed, now I'm not saying I beat him, but first and second pulled him, pulled him far more than he liked to admit, he caught me in third and forth.



OK, I'm ranting again !

As always good luck, post pictures, make good decisions.



Ltr

 

Yep, the HEI is already on the list as soon as I get the swap finished.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40012/10002/-1

I saw a set Hedman headers made for the swap too.

 

The Headers for the '91 are a lot simpler than the '98-on just watch what you are getting.

Pictures !

 

You have to watch what exhaust manifolds you get, its a tight squeeze in the Ranger engine bay in any year, with a 90deg V8
Rangers used 60deg V6s

 

Look for a set of Shorty Headers better than no headers !