Flooded Ranger(Water) Will it run again?
#1
Flooded Ranger(Water) Will it run again?
Hiya,
My 03' Ranger was submerged in water, up to the bottom of the steering wheel, above the A/C controls on the innterior.
On the exterior my headlights were halfway under water. I was told that the water rose another 6 inches, after they released water from the dam's.
I let my truck sit and did not touch it for 3 weeks.
I finally had it towed to my driveway. We charged the battery overnight. (2 amps) Then in the morning i turned the key just to see if anything would happen. ( I did not crank the engine and still havent)
All normal lights and sounds on the inside, even my stereo/speakers work! Also headlights, brake lights etc.
I had water in the oil and i drained it and let it sit for 3 days with cap/plug off. (Removed oil filter as well) Also, i had a small leak in the rear differential so i drained it as well. (Only a very small amount of water came out.)
I got as much brake fluid and power steering fluid out of the resevoirs as i could. (Used a turkey baster) Then drained my radiator.
I took out the spark plug wires and there was water in the holes and i let them dry out. Oh, and dried out the air filter to.
The only thing i havent checked is the transmission fluid and the intake.
I would like to know if there is anything i should do that i havent done. I just dont want to miss something small and then the truck not start.
I think i have a really good chance that its going to run just as good before it drowned.
Any advise/opinions are welcomed. :)
My 03' Ranger was submerged in water, up to the bottom of the steering wheel, above the A/C controls on the innterior.
On the exterior my headlights were halfway under water. I was told that the water rose another 6 inches, after they released water from the dam's.
I let my truck sit and did not touch it for 3 weeks.
I finally had it towed to my driveway. We charged the battery overnight. (2 amps) Then in the morning i turned the key just to see if anything would happen. ( I did not crank the engine and still havent)
All normal lights and sounds on the inside, even my stereo/speakers work! Also headlights, brake lights etc.
I had water in the oil and i drained it and let it sit for 3 days with cap/plug off. (Removed oil filter as well) Also, i had a small leak in the rear differential so i drained it as well. (Only a very small amount of water came out.)
I got as much brake fluid and power steering fluid out of the resevoirs as i could. (Used a turkey baster) Then drained my radiator.
I took out the spark plug wires and there was water in the holes and i let them dry out. Oh, and dried out the air filter to.
The only thing i havent checked is the transmission fluid and the intake.
I would like to know if there is anything i should do that i havent done. I just dont want to miss something small and then the truck not start.
I think i have a really good chance that its going to run just as good before it drowned.
Any advise/opinions are welcomed. :)
#2
I would take the valve cover off too and inspect things there for rust and any seized valves.
Spray WD-40 in the bores and on the valve train and gently turn the engine by hand, working the WD-40 into the movie parts.
The WD-40 will help absorb any water too.
You can rent an external oil pump to circulate fresh oil through the engine to expel the water in the bearings/pump etc.
These kits are used to oil things after a freshly rebuilt engine on first start up.
I've never used one, but I believe they hook up to the oil filter mount and where the oil sender is screwed into the block.
I guess it depends how cautious you want to be.
Adding new oil to the pan and cranking with the ignition disconnected may be sufficient enough to get rid of any water lurking in the bearings.
At any rate I would inspect the valve train and gently turn the engine by hand to make sure none of the valves stick. (at least 4 full revolutions of the crank)
Probably a 2.3 Duratec engine, so very close valve tolerances _ can't afford to have a sticking valve.
Spray WD-40 in the bores and on the valve train and gently turn the engine by hand, working the WD-40 into the movie parts.
The WD-40 will help absorb any water too.
You can rent an external oil pump to circulate fresh oil through the engine to expel the water in the bearings/pump etc.
These kits are used to oil things after a freshly rebuilt engine on first start up.
I've never used one, but I believe they hook up to the oil filter mount and where the oil sender is screwed into the block.
I guess it depends how cautious you want to be.
Adding new oil to the pan and cranking with the ignition disconnected may be sufficient enough to get rid of any water lurking in the bearings.
At any rate I would inspect the valve train and gently turn the engine by hand to make sure none of the valves stick. (at least 4 full revolutions of the crank)
Probably a 2.3 Duratec engine, so very close valve tolerances _ can't afford to have a sticking valve.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 10-13-2017 at 09:51 AM.
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