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  #1  
Old 05-17-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
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Front brake question now

Do the caliper mounting brackets have lock-tite on them from the factory? not even after soaking them with PB blaster for 20 minutes would they budge with the impact...

this ****ing truck is really getting on my nerves. how can a 2004my truck be so dam rusted? my 93 is 12 years older and has seen a lot more and isnt half as rusted...
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Old 05-17-2007
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caliper bolts should have loctite on them. if you havent heard, lots of members have learned why the are. calipers coming off while driving is a scary deal.
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Old 05-17-2007
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are u refering to the actual caliper or the caliper bracket that is bolted to the spindle?
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Old 05-17-2007
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he is talking about the bracket to the spindle, those bolts back out.

they need to be lock tite and torqued to 85ft lbs when reinstalling.

Get a breaker bar on that sucker.
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Old 05-17-2007
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well thats nice to know, LOL. i wasnt sure which bolts backed out so i lock-tite'd the caliper mounting bolts last time i took em off.

ill try a breaker bar/pipe i guess. i thought the impact would do it...i even cranked the PSI up to about 130...
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Old 05-17-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
well thats nice to know, LOL. i wasnt sure which bolts backed out so i lock-tite'd the caliper mounting bolts last time i took em off.

ill try a breaker bar/pipe i guess. i thought the impact would do it...i even cranked the PSI up to about 130...
My impact can't even get to about 70ft lbs. And I have a decent gun.

For the brakes I always have to get a breaker and pipe. Not just b/c of the loctite and them being at 85, but your brakes go through heat cycles, so they are probably at 100ft # easy, just remember, they do come off. It's a big bolt, so don't be afraid to put some major torque on it to take it off.
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Old 05-17-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
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the gun knocks off wheels and other assorted parts with no real problems. i dunno. i ran out of time today or i would have tried the breaker bar/pipe.

trust me im not afraid to reef on anything, i just got done with my associates for diesel tech so now im used to using the big pipe :-D. i asked this question for two reasons, to see if it needed lock tite and just how much torque i need to get those bastards off LOL.
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Old 05-18-2007
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Old 05-21-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
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ok finally got the fronts done. took a lot muscling with those dam caliper bracket-spindle bolts but its done. but wouldnt ya know it, the drivers front rotor was rusted fast to the hub. so i had to thorougly persuede it to come off.

but now i have another problem...the front makes a slight clicking when im braking sometimes. but that isnt what concerns me...what does is when i push the pedal. i did the normal break in procedure and after i did i noticed the problem.

i hope i can explain it. under normal to hard braking the steering wheel vibrates left to right a little and u can feel the truck rock back n forth. it feels like when the ABS is working but slower. also when i press the pedal the brakes work great for a split second but then the pedal gets a softer until i press it more and immediatly after the initial pedal push is when it begins the rocking.

i didnt get to bleed the brakes because no sooner did i get the garage closed did it rain. also, since i was in a hurry to beat the rain, i forgot to take the master cylinder cap off and remove some fluid so when i pushed the pistons into the calipers some fluid split out. that shouldnt have made any difference besides a little mess to clean up...right?

FYI i went with Bendix rotors and Bendix Titiametallic pads.
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Old 05-21-2007
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cant answer all of the question but you need to bleed the brakes, you need the correct amount of brake fluid and you have to bleed them or they will not work correctly, get those brakes bled before you drive it again
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Old 05-22-2007
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Check to see if the rotor is spinning true.As you were in a hurry you might have missed a piece of rust on the hub so the rotor sits on there crooked.
If fluid spit out of the caliper you must bleed it and hopefully you didn't damage the seal.
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2007
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I discovered that even with my brand-new rotors they needed to be turned because they weren't true out of the box.

What a crock of S$%* if you ask me...but whatever, I had them turned and nice and smooth braking now...
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2007
optikal illushun's Avatar
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im gunna take the wheels off tomorrow (i hope) and torque the lugs down with just the rotors on and see if any are OOR with a dial indicator.

if they need to be turned im gunna be ****in pissed, i dont have the time or room to have the truck tied up. im doing it in my alley one side at a time.

the fluid came out of the master cylinder resivior, not the caliper(s).
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2007
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well, i drove it to get it inspected last thursday and it didnt do anything weird. drove it a few more times and nothing. i dunno, im not gunna **** with anything besides bleeding the brakes if i get around to it.

man, does it stop good now :-D
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2007
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I had one of the caliper bracket bolts back out on me, and it took out a wheel and the caliper ended up punching a hole in the wheel. Thinking I had a flat I put it in 4x4 to get it across the intersection. Ever since then when in 4x4 it appears to howl. I wonder if I stressed the gears. So make sure and use loctite, and torque them down good. Also make sure and clean the caliper slide pins and lube them or you will wear out one side of the pads early.
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