General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

HELP! Ignition system

Old May 27, 2020
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Icon4 HELP! Ignition system

Please help. I have a 1992 Ranger XLT 2.3l manual trans.
It was running terrible. No power, rough idle, back firing and terrible exhaust smell. Codes led me to believe the o2 sensor and coil packs were bad. Replaced O2 sensor, both coil packs, plugs and wires.
When I started it after the replacements it was still ran rough. Turned it off and cleared the codes. Drove it around and after about 15 minutes it started running good again. Maybe a misfire occasionally. Ran good yesterday. Today it started fine ran good for 30 seconds then back to terrible. The KOEO code is 224. Something to do with the coil packs? Did I miss something? Is there something else I need to check or replace?
I will do a KOER test later for those codes but I was hoping I just missed something simple.
 
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Old May 27, 2020
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Welcome to the forum

Best guess, and it is a guess
1989 to 1994 2.3l Lima used an ICM(ignition control module) for spark system, its located on the front of lower intake so fan can cool it, it runs HOT
These were a known issue, because they run hot, and can cause intermittent issues when failing
224 Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems......and can just be a Ground fault at the ICM

So this code would indicate ICM issue more than coil pack issue, while ICM can be tested its most likely to test good when cold, so useless to test them IMO
Inspect the ICM wiring, the wires can get brittle and frayed, the ICU need to be ground to the intake, so should have at least 3 bolts holding it on
When facing the ICM the lower left bolt is the main GROUND for the ICM, and the upper left bolt, you can add a ground wire to either of these bolts, just to be sure
If bolts get rusty or corroded then rough running and code 224

1983 to 1997 Ranger 2.3l Lima engines use a timing BELT, and they need to be changed every 100k miles or so
Then can stretch or slip when older causing issues and they can break, but won't damage engine, just won't run at all, lol
Compression test can tell you more

Clogged exhaust system, as Cats and mufflers rust out inside they can restrict exhaust flow and as parts move around it can get better or worse
Tap on these with a stick and see if that are rattling inside

 
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Old May 27, 2020
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Coils needed replaced regardless. When I pulled them out the plastic coating started falling off. It was all rusty underneath. Not sure how they were still working.

ICM wiring looks in good condition. It does have 3 bolts holding on but it is missing the top left bolt. Heads of the bolts are covered in rust. I was thinking about removing the top right bolt and moving it to the top left with an added ground wire.

I had the timing belt changed at 80k but it has 180k on it now. Soooo....time for a new timing belt.

No clogged exhaust for sure. Currently running open manifold. Didn't want to waste any more time on the exhaust if the engine was broken. XD

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old May 28, 2020
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Only 3 bolts is common, factory

Yes, try grounding and see if it runs better, and code goes away
Only the left side bolt(s) will ground the unit internally, when facing ICM, so closest to engine
 
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Old May 28, 2020
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Originally Posted by RonD
Only 3 bolts is common, factory

Yes, try grounding and see if it runs better, and code goes away
Only the left side bolt(s) will ground the unit internally, when facing ICM, so closest to engine
there was never a bolt on the top left so my original plan is out the window.
would you happen to know the bolt size? I can't find a socket that fits. 5.5mm is too big and 5mm is too small. tried some fractions without much luck. the 7/32 is too big and the 3/16 is too small
thanks
 

Last edited by thebatpeople; May 28, 2020 at 07:07 PM. Reason: added fractions
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Old May 28, 2020
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They are 5.5mm but if rusted may be smaller now, head rusted away, and these bolts usually break when removing in any case, so if you can get a drill in there you can drill the heads or a dremel or ???

Google: ranger 2.3l ICM replacement

Look at the first video, by redneck computer geek
 
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Old May 28, 2020
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Funny I watched his video earlier.
I was hoping to just get the grounding bolt off to get a wire on it to make sure it wasn't just a grounding issue.
Guess I could use my Dremel to cut the heads off the bolts and attach the ground wire with it dangling there. If it works, I can zip tie it back until I can replace the bolts.
Bad part about that is I might have to remove the A/C compressor to get near the bottom bolts. Stupid thing hasn't worked since 1996 anyway. Maybe I should leave it off and buy a new belt.
 
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