🆘HELP NO SPARK🆘
 

I have a 1993 ford ranger it’s stick 4.0 4x4 and It sat about a year and I did the head gasket on it finally and I have no spark I have 12 volts going to all 4 wires going into my coil pack but no spark coming out I have replaced the crank shaft position sensor 2 times as well as 2 different coil packs and a new ignition control module I have talked to multiple people and no one has a clue what else it could be

Welcome to the forum

1993 4.0l used an EDIS-6 spark module, can't use spark testers on these Waste spark systems, well you can just wouldn't work reliably, lol
Best test for spark is to spray fuel manually into the intake a crank engine over, if it doesn't fire then no spark(or no compression)

EDIS-6 system just has 3 parts and the wires

EDIS-6, never breaks unless physically hit, lol
Coil pack, can crack but usually 4 spark plugs stay working, so engine can start
Crank sensor, just a Variable Reluctor sensor, so makes its own AC Volts, 0.5vAC to 1vAC when cranking

This is an autonomous system, doesn't need the engine computer to work, people put this system on other V6 engines because it was such a reliable and simple system, i.e hot rods and boats

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, that means computer has booted up OK
Try to start engine, as soon as engine is turning the CEL should go OFF, that means computer is getting a "valid" timing signal from the EDIS-6 module(it gets it from crank sensor)
If CEL stays on then no timing signal and of course no start

Crank sensor reads the reluctor wheel(tone wheel) attached to the back of crank pulley/balancer
It has 1 "tooth" every 10deg, so should have 36 "teeth"(360deg in a circle) but 1 "tooth" is missing, that missing "tooth", gap, denotes #1 Top Dead Center to the EDIS-6, so it knows when to spark #1, and when it knows that it knows when to fire the other 5 spark plugs
If Tone wheel is damaged(broken tooth) or not spinning true(wobbles), or Crank sensor is too far away from it then no timing signal
Picture here from Ebay of 4.0l balancer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15548679647...evt=1&mkcid=28
You can see the missing "tooth", space between other "teeth" must be mud free, lol, but I assume they are.


Here is the wiring for the EDIS-6: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/edis6ew.gif
You can test pin8 for 12v key on
Pin 9 for good ground

Set volt meter to AC Volts and put probes on pins 5 and 6
Crank engine over, should see 0.5 to 1vAC

You can do a continuity test on the 3 coil wires from EDIS-6 to coil pack

thank you so much for responding I’ve done hours of research and haven’t had any luck but the CEL does turn off when cranking I try the screw driver on the block trick and just nothing I’ve tried starting fluid but nothing I’m going to run a compression test just to be safe tomorrow but it should be good everything from the head gasket up is new so I’m dying to get this thing on the road there’s 12 volts going to the coil pack on every wire so would that mean that it’s a problem with the ECU sending it ground from the ignition? Sorry if that sounds stupid I try to stay away from wiring as much as possible what should I look into next? Ecu possibly?
also the RPMs don’t go up when cranking is that something?

Unplug the 4 wire connector on coil pack, the red wire is the 12volt other 3 colors are grounds from EDIS-6
With key on use test light, or volt meter, from red wire to each other wire, one at a time, should see light come on or 12v each time, because EDIS-6 is "charging up" each coil in the pack, grounding each wire
Spark is created when one of these wires is UNgrounded
Test light is better for next test
Have test light on red wire and any other of the 3 "ground wires", crank engine over and test light should start to flash as EDIS-6 ungrounds the ground wire to spark the coil
You can test all 3 that way but if 1 is working chances are the other 2 are as well and engine would fire/pop with just one coil in the pack working

If you were to test all 4 wires while they are plugged into coil pack and key was on, all 4 would show 12volts
A coil is what it says, a "coil of wire", so 12v in = 12v out
There is only one 12v wire at the coil pack, but it is connected internally to the other 3 by each coil's "coil of wire"
Unplugged only the one red wire should have 12v, the other 3 are grounds
So depends on testing method

If you have key on, and one volt meter probe on battery positive then touch other probe to each coil pack's ground wire you should see 12volts, that means that wire, from the EDIS-6, is a good ground to battery Negative