Im probably beating a dead horse. . .
Im probably beating a dead horse. . .
Speedometer and Odometer quit on me the speedo flickered on and off then hasnt worked since. Replaced the vss thats on the rear axle but didnt do anything - Is there another one sensor somewhere? I have been reading forum posts like crazy cant find a straight answer. I have a manual transmission 2001 ranger with the 2.5. I looked on the transmission and all I have on it is the back up light lamps that I disconnected and reconnected to see if thats what it was. thanks anyone/everyone
Welcome to the forum
Rear axle sensor is also for ABS, so if it goes out ABS light will come on as well
2001 2.5l Lima was only available for 1/2 the year, just FYI, Rangers got the 2.3l Duratec mid-year which had a different speed setup
Yes, yours will used the rear axle VSS, it goes to ABS AND to GEM module behind the radio in the dash
The GEM converts the 25,000PPM ABS signal to the 8,000PPM signal needed by speedometer/odo, computer, and Cruise control(if so equipped)
If Speed signal was missing in the computer it would turn on CEL(check engine light) and you would have code P0500-no speed signal
So if CEL works, comes in with key on, and then stays off after startup then no P0500 code
This would mean GEM is working and the problem was in the cluster or a fuse
Check fuse 26 in cab fuse box, 10amp
If its OK then you will need to pull out the cluster and probably GEM to access wires
A grey/black stripe wire is used from GEM to cluster, and computer, and cruise, they are all just spliced together
You will need to test the cluster to GEM wire with OHM meter
Speedo and odo use/share the same signal wire and each has a separate electric motor, so not a motor issue if both don't work
So either there is no power or no signal
Rear axle sensor is also for ABS, so if it goes out ABS light will come on as well
2001 2.5l Lima was only available for 1/2 the year, just FYI, Rangers got the 2.3l Duratec mid-year which had a different speed setup
Yes, yours will used the rear axle VSS, it goes to ABS AND to GEM module behind the radio in the dash
The GEM converts the 25,000PPM ABS signal to the 8,000PPM signal needed by speedometer/odo, computer, and Cruise control(if so equipped)
If Speed signal was missing in the computer it would turn on CEL(check engine light) and you would have code P0500-no speed signal
So if CEL works, comes in with key on, and then stays off after startup then no P0500 code
This would mean GEM is working and the problem was in the cluster or a fuse
Check fuse 26 in cab fuse box, 10amp
If its OK then you will need to pull out the cluster and probably GEM to access wires
A grey/black stripe wire is used from GEM to cluster, and computer, and cruise, they are all just spliced together
You will need to test the cluster to GEM wire with OHM meter
Speedo and odo use/share the same signal wire and each has a separate electric motor, so not a motor issue if both don't work
So either there is no power or no signal
Ok thanks for the welcoming and reply! I had the check engine light come on initially but reset my battery to see if that would fix the speedo but hasnt come on since. fuse was fine. The ABS light is still on after throwing in the new sensor could that sensor be faulty? If the problem was in the cluster would it turn the CEL light on?
Last edited by Tumbleweed; Feb 12, 2022 at 05:03 AM.
No CEL for cluster fault
No CEL with key on means bulb is burned out or computer is not powering up
A good Rear Axle ABS sensor should show 800-2,000 ohms when its out, so test your old one first to see what it shows
You can get a Bluetooth OBD2 reader for under $20, like an ELM327
These work on ANY vehicle 1996 and newer, and with any cellphone with a FREE APP
Very good diagnostic tool to have in the drawer
Can read and clear codes, but you can also see "live data" from computer, like SPEED while driving, this would tell you if computer is getting a speed signal, but cluster is not
It can't see ABS codes
No CEL with key on means bulb is burned out or computer is not powering up
A good Rear Axle ABS sensor should show 800-2,000 ohms when its out, so test your old one first to see what it shows
You can get a Bluetooth OBD2 reader for under $20, like an ELM327
These work on ANY vehicle 1996 and newer, and with any cellphone with a FREE APP
Very good diagnostic tool to have in the drawer
Can read and clear codes, but you can also see "live data" from computer, like SPEED while driving, this would tell you if computer is getting a speed signal, but cluster is not
It can't see ABS codes
Hey so I bought a scan tool and have the P0500 come up speed sensor circuit A and also getting a 0mph read on my live data stream. Where should I head next? fuses are fine swapped out the sensor wires looked great plug looked great.
Last edited by Tumbleweed; Feb 13, 2022 at 01:59 PM.
Then its the GEM module behind the radio, either wires spliced to the rear axle sensor wires are bad or the GEM module is
Need to pull out the radio
GEM can has 2, 3, or 4 wiring connectors depending on vehicles options, but that doesn't matter since you only need to test wires on the one 18 pin connector
Pin 1 on that connector is SPEED OUT, grey/black stripe wire
Pins 9 and 18 are the SPEED IN from rear axle sensor, red/pink wire and green/black wire
Unplug rear axle sensor, put a jumper wire between the 2 wires, so they are shorted together
Use an OHM meter to test the 2 wires at the GEM end, should see 0 OHMs, a direct connection, if not then there is a broken wire between sensor and GEM
If you get 0 OHMs then problem is GEM module, pretty much any 1998-2000 Ranger GEM will work for you, but only a 2001 from a 2.5l would work, not from 2001 3.0l or 4.0l
These are the only years that have the speed conversion software inside
Need to pull out the radio
GEM can has 2, 3, or 4 wiring connectors depending on vehicles options, but that doesn't matter since you only need to test wires on the one 18 pin connector
Pin 1 on that connector is SPEED OUT, grey/black stripe wire
Pins 9 and 18 are the SPEED IN from rear axle sensor, red/pink wire and green/black wire
Unplug rear axle sensor, put a jumper wire between the 2 wires, so they are shorted together
Use an OHM meter to test the 2 wires at the GEM end, should see 0 OHMs, a direct connection, if not then there is a broken wire between sensor and GEM
If you get 0 OHMs then problem is GEM module, pretty much any 1998-2000 Ranger GEM will work for you, but only a 2001 from a 2.5l would work, not from 2001 3.0l or 4.0l
These are the only years that have the speed conversion software inside
Was driving the ranger yesterday and the speedometer and mile gauge would kick on for a little bit then drop out. I also noticed that if i was cruising at a constant speed with consistent pressure on the gas pedal, when the speedo would kick on Id get a little extra engine power. any ideas??
Sure, could be
In 1998-2000 Rangers Speed signal comes from the rear axle ABS sensor, so if ABS light is also coming on then could be that sensor or wire
If ABS light is not coming on the could be wire from ABS to the GEM behind the radio
Or the GEM itself
Of the wire from GEM to speedometer and computer
You only know the cause of "intermittent" when you find it, until then one guess is a good as another
In 1998-2000 Rangers Speed signal comes from the rear axle ABS sensor, so if ABS light is also coming on then could be that sensor or wire
If ABS light is not coming on the could be wire from ABS to the GEM behind the radio
Or the GEM itself
Of the wire from GEM to speedometer and computer
You only know the cause of "intermittent" when you find it, until then one guess is a good as another
2000 and 2001 Rangers have a larger connector under drivers seat, for wiring to go from inside cab to outside, it was a known issue for water intrusion
TSB seen here: Technical Service Bulletin 2000-2001 Ranger electrical connector - Ford Ranger Forum
In 2001 it was called connector C340
TSB seen here: Technical Service Bulletin 2000-2001 Ranger electrical connector - Ford Ranger Forum
In 2001 it was called connector C340
thank you Ron. check this out Technical Service Bulletin 2000-2001 Ranger electrical connector - Ford Ranger Forum
def the right direction could I dry it out the area under the truck with a hair dryer? the glue that was holding it in place under the floor gave up so its not flush with the floor anymore.
def the right direction could I dry it out the area under the truck with a hair dryer? the glue that was holding it in place under the floor gave up so its not flush with the floor anymore.
You would need to open the connector and clean the pins/slots as best you can, and yes dry it out
Then put dielectric grease on inside edges of connector and put it back together
The grease seals it from water getting in
Dielectric grease won't conduct electricity so no shorts, but do not get it on the pins or in the slots, because those ARE SUPPOSE to conduct electricity, lol
Found this diagram: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...nnector340.jpg
Then put dielectric grease on inside edges of connector and put it back together
The grease seals it from water getting in
Dielectric grease won't conduct electricity so no shorts, but do not get it on the pins or in the slots, because those ARE SUPPOSE to conduct electricity, lol
Found this diagram: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...nnector340.jpg
Ok so I took the plug out came out no prob but was filled with water and a few of the pins were so corroded and broke. Truck wont start kinda feeling the RIP feeling what do I do now was stranded for hours.
Well at least it was a "controlled" breakdown, it could have happened at any time, when those connections finally failed inside
They are crimp on style but you should solder on new pins
TSB had these pin numbers
REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:
E7EB-14461-BA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or
F6TZ-14461-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or
F6DZ-14461-CA replacing silver finish pins (2.8mm) and/or
E5DZ-14461-A replacing silver finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 and 64)
25 pins for $11: https://www.fastener.zone/products/a...-e7eb-14461-ba
Ford dealer should have them but will be "a piece" most likely, but if you only need a few................
Local auto parts store could have them as well
They are crimp on style but you should solder on new pins
TSB had these pin numbers
REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:
E7EB-14461-BA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or
F6TZ-14461-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or
F6DZ-14461-CA replacing silver finish pins (2.8mm) and/or
E5DZ-14461-A replacing silver finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 and 64)
25 pins for $11: https://www.fastener.zone/products/a...-e7eb-14461-ba
Ford dealer should have them but will be "a piece" most likely, but if you only need a few................
Local auto parts store could have them as well
Yes, just reference the TSB, seen here: https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig100...cb9325_eee.pdf
Google: de-pin ford connectors
There are different kinds of connectors, so different methods
Google: de-pin ford connectors
There are different kinds of connectors, so different methods
So im dropping my truck off this week with a pretty solid mechanic he's kind of aware of the issue hard to explain over the phone. I believe one of the pins the size of a needle broke too. All the wires are solid just the plug is pretty much toast. Could he wire it straight together without the plug? Trying to get the idea aligned. I bought those pins you posted theyll be in tuesday. Should I hit a junkyard?


