need help troubleshooting
#1
02-15-2015
need help troubleshooting
i have a few little issues i need help troubleshooting,
1. my rangers been dealing with a lot of very cold weather,(i live in new england)
anyway the idle was rough and sometimes stalled, by rough i mean it looked like someone was shaking the truck, so i read up on it and cleaned my IAC, its better but not 100% better, idles are smooth, but still have a low idle. the truck starts at regular speed and creeps down to about 500RPM, then there are sometimes, mostly when going down hill and breaking or without pressing the gas, where the engine searches from ~200-600RPM. as the RPMs raise and lower so does the brightness on my dash and headlights. im planning on changing my fuel filter and regular maintance when my bare hand wont stick to metal.
2. when i drive the "open door" or "keys in ignition" beeps for about 30 seconds then stops, then every 30-40 minutes of driving it repeats, 30 seconds of beeps. wasnt sure if this was tied to the door sensor, or a fuse.
3. my brakes get really sensitive sometimes, usually after it sits for a while. i usually can depress the brakes a little, but then it seams to slam them on, nearly throws me through windshield.
4. lastly is while driving my transmission seams to pause while shifting sometimes, its like if you had a manual trany and kept you foot on the gas while depressing the clutch, i havent noticed any slippage though.
feel free to jump in and tell me what ya think
1. my rangers been dealing with a lot of very cold weather,(i live in new england)
anyway the idle was rough and sometimes stalled, by rough i mean it looked like someone was shaking the truck, so i read up on it and cleaned my IAC, its better but not 100% better, idles are smooth, but still have a low idle. the truck starts at regular speed and creeps down to about 500RPM, then there are sometimes, mostly when going down hill and breaking or without pressing the gas, where the engine searches from ~200-600RPM. as the RPMs raise and lower so does the brightness on my dash and headlights. im planning on changing my fuel filter and regular maintance when my bare hand wont stick to metal.
2. when i drive the "open door" or "keys in ignition" beeps for about 30 seconds then stops, then every 30-40 minutes of driving it repeats, 30 seconds of beeps. wasnt sure if this was tied to the door sensor, or a fuse.
3. my brakes get really sensitive sometimes, usually after it sits for a while. i usually can depress the brakes a little, but then it seams to slam them on, nearly throws me through windshield.
4. lastly is while driving my transmission seams to pause while shifting sometimes, its like if you had a manual trany and kept you foot on the gas while depressing the clutch, i havent noticed any slippage though.
feel free to jump in and tell me what ya think
#2
02-16-2015
1. The computer uses it's own sensor to detect engine temp, it is the 2 wire ECT sensor, it is on the intake manifold near thermostat housing.
There is also a 1 wire temp SENDER located near it, that is only for the dash board temp gauge.
When you turn on the key the computer opens the IAC Valve all the way for starting and then "looks" at the engine temp.
Once engine starts RPMs should be up at 1,500-1,800rpms, the computer will then start to close the IAC valve to set idle.
1,100-1,300rpms for cold engine idle, 750-800rpms for warm engine idle(automatic)
The cold idle RPMs are based on engine temp as "read" from the ECT sensor, the colder the temp the higher the RPMs.
As engine temp warms up the idle RPMs will start to go down until full warm and "target" RPMs are set for warm engine.
If your engine does not start this way, then either the IAC valve is not working as it should or the ECT sensor is not "reading" engine temp correctly.
It could be a computer issue but I would expect other issue if this was the case.
If your engine does start this way then I would clean the MAF sensor it detects air temp which is an important part of the air/fuel mix the computer uses, especially in very cold weather.
2. yes this is a common issue for Rangers and Ford trucks.
Google: ford ranger door ajar light stays on
3. try setting and releasing your E-brake maybe 10 times, pedal should get higher each time.
When you back up and hit the brakes there is an adjuster in each rear wheel that will tighten up the rear shoes, or each time you use the E-brake the same thing happens.
Many with automatics never use the E-brake and if you don't backup alot then rear brakes don't stay tight.
Then when you first use the brakes most of the fluid and pressure flows to the rear to expand the shoes to the drum until they are pressurized, at that time the front calipers can GRAB quickly.
You could also have an issue with moisture in the system which is freezing in the cold weather.
4. no real advise on this one, there are a few shift solenoids on the Ford automatics which can wear out, they are on the outside and can be tested and replaced.
There is also a 1 wire temp SENDER located near it, that is only for the dash board temp gauge.
When you turn on the key the computer opens the IAC Valve all the way for starting and then "looks" at the engine temp.
Once engine starts RPMs should be up at 1,500-1,800rpms, the computer will then start to close the IAC valve to set idle.
1,100-1,300rpms for cold engine idle, 750-800rpms for warm engine idle(automatic)
The cold idle RPMs are based on engine temp as "read" from the ECT sensor, the colder the temp the higher the RPMs.
As engine temp warms up the idle RPMs will start to go down until full warm and "target" RPMs are set for warm engine.
If your engine does not start this way, then either the IAC valve is not working as it should or the ECT sensor is not "reading" engine temp correctly.
It could be a computer issue but I would expect other issue if this was the case.
If your engine does start this way then I would clean the MAF sensor it detects air temp which is an important part of the air/fuel mix the computer uses, especially in very cold weather.
2. yes this is a common issue for Rangers and Ford trucks.
Google: ford ranger door ajar light stays on
3. try setting and releasing your E-brake maybe 10 times, pedal should get higher each time.
When you back up and hit the brakes there is an adjuster in each rear wheel that will tighten up the rear shoes, or each time you use the E-brake the same thing happens.
Many with automatics never use the E-brake and if you don't backup alot then rear brakes don't stay tight.
Then when you first use the brakes most of the fluid and pressure flows to the rear to expand the shoes to the drum until they are pressurized, at that time the front calipers can GRAB quickly.
You could also have an issue with moisture in the system which is freezing in the cold weather.
4. no real advise on this one, there are a few shift solenoids on the Ford automatics which can wear out, they are on the outside and can be tested and replaced.
Last edited by RonD; 02-16-2015 at 10:20 AM.
#3
02-19-2015
Thanks for the reply, ive been dealing with a broken belt tensioner. So now im chipping away at the problems, now im going to chamge the fuel filter, spark plugs. Im going to wait to see how the engine does the next couple of days, the IAC and MAC where both cleaned as well, do you have any info on where the shift sensors are?
#4
02-19-2015
You will have the 5R55E transmission in a '99 4.0l Ranger
Lots of info if you google your issue with that transmission.
Your description: "its like if you had a manual trany and kept you foot on the gas while depressing the clutch"
Is almost the definition of "slipping", i.e. increasing RPM without similar increase in speed.
Lots of info if you google your issue with that transmission.
Your description: "its like if you had a manual trany and kept you foot on the gas while depressing the clutch"
Is almost the definition of "slipping", i.e. increasing RPM without similar increase in speed.
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