Not charging constantly...
#1
Not charging constantly...
Hello,
I have a 93 Ranger with a 2.3 A couple days ago I got in my truck to head out to work and the all sighs showed alt not working - dim lights, volt gauge reading low. I drove for a few minutes and then it came back to life slowing, meaning at first I would let off the throttle and the volt gauge and lights would come up then I would step on it and it would dim again. This went on for about 5 min then it worked fine. I thought the alt was going out, well today it just flat won't charge, I replaced the alt thats not it, I cleaned all the connections and grounds... any thoughts!?!?!?
Thanks,
Ron
I have a 93 Ranger with a 2.3 A couple days ago I got in my truck to head out to work and the all sighs showed alt not working - dim lights, volt gauge reading low. I drove for a few minutes and then it came back to life slowing, meaning at first I would let off the throttle and the volt gauge and lights would come up then I would step on it and it would dim again. This went on for about 5 min then it worked fine. I thought the alt was going out, well today it just flat won't charge, I replaced the alt thats not it, I cleaned all the connections and grounds... any thoughts!?!?!?
Thanks,
Ron
#3
#5
Then I'd also examine the harness which has fuse links spliced into it, and the connection where it goes to the battery junction box in the engine compartment if 93's are like that as well. The alternator feeds a power buss in the battery junction box that then bridges over to the battery on my later model and I suspect yours may be the same -- not sure.
Do 93 alternators have integral regulators with multipin connectors? I had a friends Ford (not a Ranger, but same style alternator) develop a bad wire to the connector. The wire was actually broken in the "crimp" that fastens the wire to the pin inside the connector. We spliced in a pigtail from a JY and it was fine after that.
Do 93 alternators have integral regulators with multipin connectors? I had a friends Ford (not a Ranger, but same style alternator) develop a bad wire to the connector. The wire was actually broken in the "crimp" that fastens the wire to the pin inside the connector. We spliced in a pigtail from a JY and it was fine after that.
#6
Thanks I'll look in that direction today, question the starter solenoid, when the truck is off should there be continuity between the posts? In the manual it says the starter solenoid is in one position to start then switches over to basically a charging mode. With the truck off I was able to get continuity between the posts. I double checked this on my 96 Bronco and I do not get the same result.. Almost like the starter solenoid is stuck in the start position.. Thoughts?!?
#7
2 things to look at. First off when you check for continuity, you need to disconnect the power lead at the sol itself since you could be feeding back through the lowest path of resistance whcih could be through some part of the starting circuit that may or may not be engaged while the key is off.
Second, once yo have done the above, I will assume the starter sol. pulls no more than 1 or 2 amps. At 1 amp of current you should see a 12 ohm resistance, and at 2 amps about 6 ohms. Evven if the sol pulled a massive 12 amps (no way on this small of a coil) it would give you 1 ohm resistance. Hopefully you are checking continuity with an Ohmeter or can get one.
Phil
Second, once yo have done the above, I will assume the starter sol. pulls no more than 1 or 2 amps. At 1 amp of current you should see a 12 ohm resistance, and at 2 amps about 6 ohms. Evven if the sol pulled a massive 12 amps (no way on this small of a coil) it would give you 1 ohm resistance. Hopefully you are checking continuity with an Ohmeter or can get one.
Phil
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