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General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

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  #26  
Old 02-25-2009
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I would try it, but it going to snow and its cold... no garage
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2009
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So, i took the truck to sear, they said that i could have warped rotors, a wrong left right disk, and the the right back shoe was not making contact. Then i went to fleet farm and they said they had a machine the tuned the rotors and i would feel the vibration at high speeds when braking and not just 10 MPG. The shoe was tightened by them and they said the disc was the right one.

where do i go from here, if the rotor was warped, wouldn't i feel it at high speeds and not only slow speeds, my truck is out of line
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  #28  
Old 02-27-2009
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10MPG....? lol... if thats the case then easy up one your right foot and it will be a win win situation. better gas mileage and no vibration.
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  #29  
Old 02-27-2009
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you lost me... if im going 30 mph and brake the vibration wont start until the truck it down to 10 MPH......... then it vibrated from 10 mph until stopped

but no vibration at high speeds so I'm totally at a lost haha i have gotten to the point were i might drive it until it dies and then be done with it....aka no more money put into the truck, which is sad and hard to take for me because i love my truck, but this latest problem has drove me to the edge with it.
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  #30  
Old 02-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudranger View Post
and not just 10 MPG.
"MPG"
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  #31  
Old 02-27-2009
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ok i meant MPH
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  #32  
Old 02-27-2009
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but what about the truck only shaking at 10 MPH and never else???
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  #33  
Old 02-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02rangermayhem View Post
they are stupid easy!!!

steps:
1. Jack up vehicle
2. Remove tire
3. Remove caliper and pads (2bolts on the back side. top and bottom)
4. Remove caliper bracket(2 bolts on the back side. top and bottom)
5. Pull old rotor off. Replace with new rotor
6. Install caliper bracket
7. Install new pads
8. Compress caliper piston. (new pads are thicker.)
9. Install caliper
10. Install tire
11. Lower vehicle
12. Pump brakes with the engine on.
Not necessarily true.........
Depends on year and if 2WD or 4WD.

Additional parts on some models are wheel bearings (inner & outer) replacement or repack and wheel hub grease seal. Requires puller also.
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  #34  
Old 02-28-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AEA View Post
Not necessarily true.........
Depends on year and if 2WD or 4WD.

Additional parts on some models are wheel bearings (inner & outer) replacement or repack and wheel hub grease seal. Requires puller also.
his truck is a 2001 4x4. there for, the directions i provided will be the exact procedure to follow.

no wheel bearings to repack considering it is a sealed bearing pressed into a hub assembly.
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  #35  
Old 03-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudranger View Post
Well here is another post in more detail on my truck issues-

Well I had to have my brake replaced, when they wnet out the other day. The thing is the brakes were only 15,000 miles old?

So I took the truck to fleet farm, and once i got it back, the front end shakes when I brake medium pressure in a straight line going 30-40 MPH

Here is what they did,

+ installed front brakes
+installed rear brakes
+Cut Rotors in front
+Installed rear cylinder
+Bleed Brakes

My front tires are showing choppy wear on the inside---15,000 miles on them

Sujested supension check and alignment

What could be the problem my truck is sagging a little on the drivers side

Thanks for the help....I just want this all to be over before i go hunting on spring break
So they took material off your rotors when they were already warped? Now they will warp easier than before. Cuting rotors is flat-rate mechanic, I need to get payed, bullsh!t.

Go throw a new set of rotors on and scrap the old ones.
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