Hi, My 2000 Ranger 4 cylinder started to mis at idle then lost power.
I replaced the coil packs and plg wires, it ran better for a while but then go tot worse.

There is no engine code light and advanced auto put their code reader to it and nothing came up.
I also have antifreeze that keeps disapearing in the reservoir but I dont see it leaking anywhere but can sometimes smell it as if it was leaking.

So I was sitting in front of my house and I went to put it in gear , then it kept freezing up where it would not go out of neutral, then when I finally got it to go in first gear, i heard a tapping noise. This tapping noise stops when i put the clutch in.

So I decided to check the oil again and noticed the oil was very thin and it appeared 'watery" dripping off the dip stick as soon as I lifted it out.

So Im guessing my antifreeze is going in the engine causing oil to be watery and rough idle/loss of power but with no engine light coming on?

Also, could this be connected to the clutch/first gear suddenly acting up as well?

Anyway, it hit me all at once and now its overwheming.

I dont know if I should try and sell it on craigaslist as is with all the problems listed, would someone even buy it? Or should I just junk it?

Do the 2000 4 cylinder (but has 8 spark plugs) Ford Rangers hold any value even with the problems I described??

Any advice will be apreciated.

 

Sounds like a straight forward head gasket leak, you'll need to replace that first, your transmission issue could just be needing to bleed the clutch or replace the slave/master cylinder.

If i was buying it in this state, i'd talk you out of most of your money in the sale.

 

Yes +1
17 year old Ranger "mechanics special" won't bring much money your way

So I would first see what you are up against to find the best way forward

Get a latex glove or a balloon or even a condom

Cold engine
Take rad cap off
Take overflow hose off and block that port on rad, use gum, putty, vacuum cap???

Place latex glove over rad cap opening and seal it with rubber band
(or use balloon or condom instead of glove)
Unplug both coil packs 3 wire connectors, you want a No Start

Now crank the engine and watch the glove
If it starts to Bounce, then you have a blown head gasket
If it just lays there then you don't
100% definitive test, unlike chemical tests that give false positives, lol, mechanics love the chemical tests

If it Bounces then if you want you can remove 1 spark plug at a time from each cylinder, which ever is easier to get to
Then crank engine again
When glove stops bouncing the last spark plug removed was from the cylinder with the bad gasket.
You don't need to know which cylinder has the leak, but some like to know

If your oil has coolant/water in it it will be OVER the full line, and it WILL look like a chocolate milkshake
If it still looks like oil and not over filled then things are OK on that side, you could still have a blown head gasket, it just hasn't worked its way over to an oil passage YET.
If it does look like chocolate milkshake then stop driving it, the coolant/water in the oil will cause bearing failure, it will turn to steam on hot bearing surfaces, which "washes" ALL the oil off, so bearing gets even hotter and it will spin and seize.

Do the glove test first and either take head gasket issue OFF the table, or don't waste more time on "no fix"

Head gasket sealer in a can does work for temporary fix

 

Funny thing is the oil level is exactly the same but the oil is real watery and dripping, it no longer feels like oil.

 

Yeah, you typically get a higher oil level with head gasket leaks, but depending on the leak type, it won't change the level, for example, if the gasket is leaking between oilway, combustion chamber and waterway.

Try not to drive that too much, your oil won't be doing enough top protect the engine internals.

 

I did the glove test over radiator cap and didnt show any suction.

When I look at exhaust when running, I see water dripping out but doesnt have an antifreeze smell to it.

I have no idea where its going...
everytime I fill reservoir for antifreeze, it disappears.

 

Alright, you were looking for bobbling from the glove, not suction.

Condensation from the exhaust is normal.

Three places to check now - this is for leaking reservoir only, not your other problems.

The pipe connection under the reservoir, i had to put a jubilee clip (hose clamp) on that to stop it leaking.

Same at the other end, whilst the pipe seemed connected ok, that section is under pressure and can weep.

Lastly, my radiator cap turned out to be leaking too, only slightly, and obviously only under pressure when the engine was hot, just grab a new one.

 

I recently discovered anti freeze dripping out past my oil pan drain bolt but the oil level has not raised.

 

And the source?