Hi.

My familly is pooling together and buying a code reader/code clearer, etc....whatever the technical name is. What are some good brands? What would you suggest??

I need the following:

pull codes, clear codes, OBD2 & OBD1, $150-250 range.

Thanks for any help.

 

I've got an "actron"

I would suggest one thing though. Make sure it'll read "can" too. More and more cars are having this version of OBD2.

Rich

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94169

 

I picked up one of those harbor freight ones today and it is either not working, or I dont know how to work it.....

 

You plug it in and then turn the ignition on. (engine off)

Rich

 

oh...plug it in.....

 

I have an Actron II and it works great. Under $75 any any brand name local autoparts store.

 

If it doesn't work, check the fuse going to the data port in the truck. The truck powers the scan tool. No power to it, no worky.

Clear a bit of confusion for me. Are there models that read obdI and OBD II. I never checked mine on an obdI.

 

Has anyone purchased one of the tools from scantool.net ? I see that you can use open source software for it.

http://www.scantool.net/products/index.php?cPath=8_6

 

On a side note. is there anywhere online that lists the fuses in the engine bay and the fuses in the cab? I dont have an owners manual and the one that ford provides online is missing stuff like that.

And yeah, read the instructions, plugged it in, waited for a response and it did nothing (should come up with something and then you turn the ignition on).

 

I have this one. It is basic but it will read and clear codes.

http://www.autobarn.net/cp9125.html

It was $89 in the store. I printed out the web page, brought it to the store and they matched the price.

 

Yes, I have an older version of the ScanTool.net tool. My tool will only work with the PWM (Ford) protocol. I bought it for use with my Ranger and it works fairly well.

The upside of this device is that it is very flexible. It can read or write almost anything to the OBDII interface.. all it needs is software on the host device (read: PC) to do it.

The downside is that you have to have a host PC, palm-pilot, or something similar to make use of it. I used my old laptop with fairly good results. N3ELZ, a longtime member of this site actually wrote a program to use this ScanTool device with a Palm-Pilot. Although last I heard he had found an open source tool that was more complete and was recommending that instead.

Anyone that goes this route should definitely spring for the more expensive 'multi-protocol' version. This seems to support all formats including the now prevalent CAN protocol.


Another option is the scangauge-II. I have one of these as well. I am pretty sure this device supports all protocols as well. I know it works in my Ranger (PWM) and Miata (ISO). This is a standalone device which reads and clears codes.. but also monitors stats on the OBDII port and shows real-time and logged stats including gas mileage, coolant temp, speed, RPM and lots more. I keep this device plugged into my Miata all the time and am looking into making a permanent mount for it in the car.

The upside is that no PC or host is required. It is a self-contained device including the controls and LCD display.


Personally I would avoid a reader that ONLY does codes and clears the MIL/CEL, unless you are on a very tight budget.


One thing to look for is the capacity to read the OBD 'ready' indicators. When you clear codes and the MIL/CEL you clear all the emissions test results from memory. The computer then goes into 'not ready' mode until it completes its 'drive cycle' and tests all the various emissions components. To do this you need to drive the car under various conditions.

Most states (at least NH) require no CEL/MIL AND a report of 'ready' from the computer to pass your annual inspection. If you just clear the codes and drive into the inspection, it will report 'not ready' and you will not get your sticker. Both devices I have can read this ready/not-ready attribute. I do not know if that is universally true..

 

Get one! EBAY!!!!

 

problem with that is I have to wait 4-7 days for the auction to close, then 3-4 days for payment to arrive, then 4-6 days for them to ship.......

that and the cash I would spend on that could be spent better on replacing my few sensors that the code reader would tell me I need!

 

The fuse panel diagrams (engine bay and cab) in the 2001 Owners Manual start on page 161:

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../01ranog4e.pdf

 

thats great! Saved a copy for myself! Thanks!!!!

 

GREAT info bubba. Thanks.

 

nevermind