Greetings-

2004 Ranger xlt w/ 2.3l engine.

For the past week or so at various times while driving, the ABS and break warning indicators would momentarily come on in addition to the heater blower motor increasing in speed. I was trying to decide if it was either the voltage regulator or the alternator (or both). Then this afternoon, again while driving, the same symptoms occurred, only this time the ignition apparently died, with the engine, battery, oil, and one or two other indicators remaining lit. The engine would turn over, but not start. I'm thinking that the volt regulator / alternator may have over-amped the ignition module and/or coil causing them to fail. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

R

 

Welcome to the forum

ABS and Brake light will but come on if brake fluid in the Master cylinder is low, check fluid level
No relation to voltage in vehicle

Fan speed is set by Grounding the fan motor, so maybe a should in a wire, shirt could account for light and fan behavior

There is no "ignition module" in 2004, just a Coil Pack, and the engine computer, it controls spark and fuel

If starter motor turns engine over then do a 50/50 test
Spray gasoline or Ether(quick start) into the engine and try to start it
If it starts and dies you have no fuel at the engine
If it doesn't start you have no spark
50/50 instant results

Once you know if its spark or fuel then you have a direction and things to check
Heck you could have a bad gas gauge and just be out of gas, lol, yes long shot but NOT a no shot



Get a volt meter and test the battery, 12.4-12.8volts is a good battery, 12.8v is new battery, 12.4v is 4/5 year old battery
12.3volt is marginal, 5/6 years old
12.2volt or lower is a failed battery


After you get engine started, battery should show 14.3-14.8volt but NO higher, that would be a bad alternator/regulator
After running for 10 minutes and idling, battery should now be under 14volts, 13.5-13.8v is what you want

 

Thanks for your input Ron D. The battery had been replaced just 2 weeks ago, and the brake fluid level should be good as well as I recently bled the system and topped it off with my last brake job 6 weeks ago. When I go back to the truck, I'll be able to try your suggestion, or at least pop one of the plug wires and see if I get a spark. Could it also be possible that the alternator volt regulator could be bad and causing the coil to fail along with the engine computer? I'm trying to think in advance of what I should bring with me to where my truck broke down as far as possible replacement parts. Or maybe it's time for a new truck as this one has 465k on the dial!


Thanks again,

R

 

Pulling spark plug wire doesn't tell you anything, never has and never will, lol.

Popular to do, but what have you learned?
Is spark happening at the right time, how strong is it?

50/50 test can tell you if spark is at the right TIME and strong enough to ignite fuel, or isn't

Its like testing fuel pressure, doesn't help with a No Start, because injectors may not be working

50/50 test is always first, simple test

Check brake fluid anyway


When you turn on the key the Check Engine Light(CEL) should come on, that means the computer is booting up, if not check PCM Fuse in engine bay
Theft Light should come on and then go off, that means Key has passed PATS test
With window down cycle key on and off and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank to run for 2 seconds, it only runs for 2 seconds but does that each time key is turned on, its not quiet

Coil pack failing is unlikely, there are 2 coils in the pack and if one fails engine would still start just run very poorly

An OBD code reader would be handy, could be codes in memory to ID why it stalled

Also try other electrics, i.e. wipers, signals, headlights, radio, anything that may also not be working

 

Yep. Started up w/ ether spray. Thanks for the tip! So this means that it could be either the fuel pump or the computer (the ECU. ...am I using the correct terminology? if I am, is it located on the firewall passenger side? or do I have to remove it from under/behind the glove box?) I noticed that the parts counter needs number info on the unit to match it. I can't specifically hear the fuel pump start when I turn to "on" position. Odd thing is that I never have noticed hearing it even with the window rolled down in the past. Break fluid looks good.

 

Yep. Started up w/ ether spray. Thanks for the tip! So this means that it could be either the fuel pump or the computer (the ECU. ...am I using the correct terminology? if I am, is it located on the firewall passenger side? or do I have to remove it from under/behind the glove box?) I noticed that the parts counter needs number info on the unit to match it. I can't specifically hear the fuel pump start when I turn to "on" position. Odd thing is that I never have noticed hearing it even with the window rolled down in the past. Break fluid looks good.

 

If spark is working then Computer(PCM or ECU) is working


Fuel pump could have just quit, but not a usual failure mode, when they fail they just don't work one day, don't start, rarely do they quit while driving, possible just less likely

There is a fuel pump fuse and a Fuel pump relay to check

If you don't have 2004 owners manual in PDF then go here and download it: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

Page 141 is the diagram of engine fuse box for the 2.3l(3.0l and 4.0l are different)
Find the Fuel pump fuse, #23 20amp, and pull it out and test it or put in a new one, "looking" at a fuse can tell you if its "obviously" blown, but looking CAN NOT tell you if its good, seen many people chase their tails around trying to find a problem when it was a bad fuse, the very first thing they checked, and it "looked good", but wasn't

Now the fuel pump relay, 46A in the engine fuse box
46B is the window washer pump, swap these two relays, if fuel pump starts to work you can live without window washer until you replace the relay

One more thing to check, the Inertia switch, its in the passenger side of the cab behind kick panel where fuse box is but next to firewall not the door and usually up higher

Look similar to this: http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/4A37D3B.jpg
Has a button(red) on the top
If there is a sudden stop or rollover, i.e. accident, then this switch will "trip" and cut power to the fuel pump to prevent a fire

These rarely fail, but.....................if they are ever tripped they can not be fully reset, they should be replaced with a new one.
Vehicles are often repaired without disclosure to the next buyer..................yes not everyone is honest, "say it ain't so Joe"..........lol
Find the inertia switch and see if the button is UP, if so press it back down to reset it and fuel pump should start working agian

If fuse is OK, and relay is swapped, and inertia switch is not tripped, then your fuel pump died

One more test with volt meter
Hook volt meter to either inertia switch wire and a good Ground
Turn key on
You should see 12volts for about 2 seconds then 5-8 volts
Cycle key on and off a few times to make sure you see that 12volts

The 5-8volts has no amps so no power for pump, it is "monitor" voltage from the PCM to see if fuel pump is getting that 12volt for 2 seconds
If it doesn't PCM will set a code

If inertia switch is getting the 12volts and you don't hear the pump then pump has failed

Yes it is possible wire to pump is bad, but you need to get to the pump to test that so......................have a new pump ready when you get the bed off

Yes pulling back or tilting up the bed is how you change the fuel pump

 

Yes. Twas the fuel pump! Installed and running again. The interesting thing is that the ABS and Brake warning lights, along with the co-occurring fan speed revving, have gone away as well. Could it be that something about the failing fuel pump could case the PCM to be confused and produce a false flag of some sort?

Thanks for all your inputs, RonD! Much appreciated.

 

Good work

Electrically I can't put those other things with failing fuel pump

But it is a common electric system, everything connected to the Battery's positive and negative cables at some point

 

Addendum...

Pump still working fine, but after 2 days both warning lights came back on along with the blower revving (also took a second or two longer to start w/ slightly rough idle), Went and had it scanned at the auto parts store. Turns out that the alternator (volt reg) was over-charging. Replaced, and symptoms disappeared. Probably just a coincidence that the pump failed along with the alternator problem, or is it possible that higher current to the fuel pump pushed it over the edge? I'm thinking it should have blown the fuse first. Guess I'll never know for sure. Thanks again for your input.

 

Yes, it could have damaged fuel pump, and other parts

May also have damaged battery, you will know if it doesn't hold a charge over a few days, or overnight