My doors won't pop up or down fully anymore. I have the autopage RS-600 system installed, been using it for 2 years with no problems whatsoever. All of a sudden 2 days ago, my dash starts buzzing, and only happened when I opened the doors. Doors still locked and unlocked. Drove home and opened the door and it wouldn't do it. I was making a thread on here when I decided to go out and see if I could pin point it, hit the unlock button and it made almost a whiny noise when it popped the rods up... Hit the lock button, and that was all she wrote. No more lock and unlock. Took the dash apart, ran a new power wire to the relays that control the actuators, ground is good, voltage going into the relays from the module side are good at 12v... I'm stumped.

When I hit the unlock/lock button, with my DMM on ground and other lead on the triggered side of the relay (going to actuator) then hit the lock/unlock button, I get at max up 7v... Normally around 4-5v... Should this be at 12v?

My tech guy that works on my stereo/alarm stuff, says my feed to the relay is bad. My power source going to the relay is bad if it's not giving off 12v when it's triggered by the remote to lock/unlock.

I don't know what's going on or why all my locks are doing are buzzing (under the dash, relay). The locks themselves when I trigger the ground for the actuators actually move the rods about 1/4 of what they normally push/pull them at... So power is going through the motors inside the actuators, I'm just no sure why it's not fully locking or unlocking. I have to use my key to unlock the doors now and it sucks..

Any help is greatly appreciated. I can take a video too of what my parking lights do when I hit the lock/unlock button... It's really weird.

Thanks.

 

this happend to me 2 years ago. couldnt figure it out either so ive just been using my key.

 

I had a very similar problem with my Chrysler Cirrus aftermarket remote entry/start. Check the fuse for the unit. It sounds strange, but when I looked, the fuse holder was melted. I replaced it with a new one from RadioShack and everything worked fine.

I STILL don't understand why a fuse would cause that....

 

What the heck! I've checked every fuse and relay in the circuit, and none of them are toast. The power wire for my actuators' relays was pretty bad, i also ran my door lights off that 30a fuse, but i replaced it with it's own fuse holder for both door lights and the actuator relays and now i'm still having the same problem, even after replacing both of the relays only to find out they weren't the problem...

UGH!

 

Have you tried to bypass the alarm system and put straight 12v to the actuators? Eliminate area's of the system might help you better find the problem spot.

 

+1

"remove" the aftermarket stuff and see if it stil works. That's how I figured out my problem with the Cirrus. Do you still have the factory key FOBs?

 

I'm having serious electrical issues... So I'm workin on a tear down tonight.

When I hit my lock button, my back up lights flashed, and that was kinda creepy. They're no where near the same circuit.

 

That's really odd....

 

What was the last mod you did to your truck before this all happened (if anything)?

 

Well played around with some more situations. The ground for the relay on the back up lights was the same ground I used for the door actuators' relays.

Once I pulled the ground for the back up lights relay and made a new ground location for the actuators' relays, hit the lock button, both doors went down. What was happening was the actuators' relays were using the back up lights relays ground instead of the one they were drilled into. So I gave them both they're own location for a ground and both the backup lights work the way they should, and the doors work the way they should as well.

Can't believe I overlooked this one. The ground didn't look loose or anything, just goes to show you, trace all wires in a troubleshooting situation.

Thanks for the tips and help though guys.

 

Interesting. Glad you got that resolved. :)

 

wow weird